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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently I decided to do the y7 toy8 tranny swap and all went well, I got my flywheel resurfaced and put a new clutch in there and got the trans in and bleed the slave, but now when I start the car and try to put the car into get it won’t go into gear, like at all
I’ll try to put it into reverse and it grinds like a mf
I tried adjusting the play in the clutch pedal and it let me be able to shift it into 3rd and 4th however I have to slam the * into it and I can hear a slight grind
I’m not sure what the problem is.. and yes I’ve bled the slave numerous times
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Do not adjust the clutch pedal......

Bleeding the slave was not needed if the swap was done properly. You might have made it worse.

Places bet on the flywheel step is not correct after resurfacing or a spring popped out of the disc.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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I was gonna say you got a junk trans
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So when you do the swap do you need to use the y8 clutch? Or the y7 bc I have the y7 one in right now
I’ve been told you could just bolt the y8 right up and all should be good
 

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Lots of small things to do this.

Was the Y8 transmission sitting around unused for a long time? maybe its junk, full of crap or corrosion, or in general just stiff from not being driven.

How is the shifter, the bars, and the bushings? any of them bad can cause this.

Is the engine and transmission using factory honda motor/trans mounts? aftermarket chinese mounts from ebay suck donkey balls and sometimes change how the engine and transmission sit in the engine bay, DIRECTLY effecting the bar style shifter

Did your shifter's bottom bolt get overtightened?

Why did the clutch hydraulic system get opened up? It is a perfect example system of dont touch it unless its broke. If you had to bleed it, there is a chance the clutch master ran dry at some point, and needs further bleeding. I keep spare lines for this reason, about a foot long. Attach to master, bleed directly into the reservoir
 
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You can try putting the car up in the air on jackstands so the tires are off the ground, and you can fire up the car, put it into 2nd gear, and let it idle around 20-30mph as indicated by speedo. This will warm the transmission up to get any garbage moving, then try a fluid change
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Lots of small things to do this.

Was the Y8 transmission sitting around unused for a long time? maybe its junk, full of crap or corrosion, or in general just stiff from not being driven.

How is the shifter, the bars, and the bushings? any of them bad can cause this.

Is the engine and transmission using factory honda motor/trans mounts? aftermarket chinese mounts from ebay suck donkey balls and sometimes change how the engine and transmission sit in the engine bay, DIRECTLY effecting the bar style shifter

Did your shifter's bottom bolt get overtightened?

Why did the clutch hydraulic system get opened up? It is a perfect example system of dont touch it unless its broke. If you had to bleed it, there is a chance the clutch master ran dry at some point, and needs further bleeding. I keep spare lines for this reason, about a foot long. Attach to master, bleed directly into the reservoir
I pulled the y8 trans from my parts car that I bought with a spun rod bearing the car has been sitting a while (4-5 months) before I decided to pull it
Before pulling the trans I drained all fluid, and made sure she was empty as I could get
I had also replaced the slave cylinder as the one on my y7 overextended and popped the plunger out of the slave itself
So I took the one off the y8, which meant I would have to bleEd the slave
All the motor mounts are Honda OEM mounts brand new about 100miles ago, as for the shifters bolts, I never took it off or messed with it
I will try and put it up on jacks and let it runs in gear for a bit but I would have to start the car in gear
But I also replaced the master cylinder before I got the car running and it worked perfectly fine with the y7 trans
If there’s a possibility that the master cylinder when dry, would I have to bend bleed it again and install it or is there another alternative
Appreciate the help!
 

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Bleeding the whole system is also much freakin easier if you grab a large bleeder/extractor. I got mine from harborfreight. Saves a ton of fucking headaches.

 
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