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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Having some issues with my mini me swap and hoping someone can shed some light on what's going on. I've read tons of different threads and used the search function so don't think I'm here without doing my research.

I've got a Canadian model 2000 dx hatch 5spd with the stock y7.
Just finished connecting everything back up on the mini me swap; I have the y8 head, IM, TB from an auto eg, so I have the 3 wire iacv mounted on the throttle body like my old y7, and I'm using my y7 dizzy. At first startup i forgot to plug in the iacv and the car was surging from 500-1500rpm, I shut it off and connected the iacv plug then when it starts it will rev on its own to 5000rpm and bounce like its hitting a limiter.
I've also converted to obd1 and repinned the harness to go from obd2b iacv location to obd1 while still retaining the 3 wire plug.
I'm running RC440cc injectors but I have that compensated in crome into a stock d16y8 basemap.

I have the 2 coolant lines going to the iacv mixed up but should that make a difference? Also flushing the cooling system out because I got oil in the sleeves when taking the y7 head off, maybe air is trapped in the system? But that wouldn't explain the 5000rm idle with the iacv plugged in.

I also did the timing belt but I'm sure its timed correctly because the marks line up and I followed procedure without getting any binding from the valves hitting the pistons.

Any help is greatly appreciated! I'll pull some codes next time I'm with the car.
 

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why do you have a 3 wire IACV?

if you converted to OBD1, run a 2pin OBD1 IACV, its cheaper than the 3 wire and avoids wiring bullshit.

if this all came from an EG, you have a d16z6 intake setup, which would have the 2wire IACV anyways.


Im confused as fuck right now
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I pulled the head off an auto eg si coupe, the same thing as an American ex, from my understanding the autos use the same throttle body mounted iacv, and my intake manifold has the back plate blocked off. I'd like to leave getting a manual iacv and drilling my manifold as a last resort, just seeing what else I can try for now.

Also I priced out a manual iacv from the dealership and they want $350 for it....

Thanks for the reply
 

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maybe canada has different offerings.

in the USA, 92-95 civics had the IACV intake manifold mounted regardless of manual or automatic.

96-00 civics with a d16y7 had the 3 wire IACV throttle mounted manual or automatic, and d16y8 cars got throttle mounted 3 wire for automatic, and 2wire manifold mount for manual cars.

you dont need a brand new IACV. Ive never seen one fail. they get very clogged up and get sticky, but Ive never had one actually fail to function after a good cleaning. So I recommend grabbing a used one that stated working or such.

eg si is a d16z6 here in america.


Make sure you get the right 2 wire IACV, they are different for OBD status (1 -5th gen, 2 6th gen)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do I really need the IM iacv? In theory mine right now is wired as a 2 wire, which is what the ecu is looking for. I cross referenced the ecu pinouts from obd1 to obd2b and rewired the jumper harness so it's a 2 wire system going to the ecu even though the plug is 3.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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did you bleed the coolant? did you set timing? y7 with a y8 head is still a y8. any vacuum leaks? throttle body sticking?
 

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The Auto y8 has the IM blocked off and the IACV on the TB: As seen here


Proper 2 to 3 pin and vice cersus conversions.



 
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Do I really need the IM iacv? In theory mine right now is wired as a 2 wire, which is what the ecu is looking for. I cross referenced the ecu pinouts from obd1 to obd2b and rewired the jumper harness so it's a 2 wire system going to the ecu even though the plug is 3.
You have it all FUBARD, you need a 2 wire IACV. 2 wire IACV's are ground and power and are PWM on the ground. 3 wire IACV's are have power, ground and signal. A 3 wire IACV will not work on a 2 wire system
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replies, I've seen the 2 wire to 3 conversion pics before but I also read on another forum you can convert the 3 wire to 2, it just doesn't work apparently.

I'll look around for a manual iacv, will I also need the manual TB as well or can I just leave it attached and not hook anything up to it?
 

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auto throttlebody, I believe does not have the air passage for utilizing a manifold mounted IACV
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys, I picked up a manual tb and 2 iacv's today at pnp. One is from a 96-98 and the other a 99-00.
Does it matter which one I use?
on the back of the 99-00 the hole has a larger opening than the older one, would I benefit from this at all?
 

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I dont think you would. the IACV will compensate just fine.

get you some carb cleaner, hose them down inside, let it sit for a few seconds, then use some brake cleaner to rinse them off.

let them air dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just got it all together and rewired the iacv.

It's not surging anymore but it does have a slightly lumpy idle around 800rpm.

I'm not throwing any codes and there are no vacuum leaks.

I'm still burping the coolant system so hopefully its just that and it goes away.
 

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Have you adjusted the screw on the tb? I believe they are all flat head on Civics. It may help stabilize idle.
 

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for the idle screw, pull it completely out, clean the threads really nice, make sure the o-ring is clean and not ripped up, thread it all the way back in, then back it off 1.5 -2 turns.

that should put you in the 800-1000 rpm ballpark regardless of engine conditions if there are no other leaks.

then tighten her up til you hit 850 or so. honda says 750 +/- 50, but I like 800-850, as it keeps the alternator pumping slightly healthier voltage/amperage, and it smooths the idle slightly.

Ive blocked off the IACV compeltely before and simply set the idle screw to idle to 1100rpm, but I would not recommend it. Use it purely as an aid to diagnosing if need be.
 

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You shouldn't adjust idle like that. The FSM procedure is quite clear: unplug the IACV, adjust the screw til it idles in the 4-500rpm range, then reset the ECU & reconnect the IACV. In my experience >800 rpm is only needed on poorly maintained motors or built motors, and the later should have an EMS that allows adjusting the idle rpm in it's settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I played with the screw a bit and it raised my idle to roughly 800.
Broke down and took my car to a shop because I was concerned the timing was off, they said it wasn't and that the car is probably running poorly due to the tune, which is a y8 basemap I got on this forum, the only thing I changed in it was the bigger injectors.

So today I attempted putting in an innovate lc1 wideband to see if I'm running too rich under 3000rpm. It's not working properly either :/

There are still no vacuum leaks, when it's cold it bogs under 3k but fine after.
When it's warm it hardly hestitates and definitely has more pull than it used to, but it stalls when coming to a stop or idle sucks around 200-500rpm.
 

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how did you push the Y8 map onto the ecu? usb cable? chip burner?

EDIT unless the injectors were honda, you will need to recalibrate injector offsets if available in your tuning package
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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if its stock, why would you need anything other than stock injectors?
 
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