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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will I be fine to run a mini me with the P2P ECU my ex coupe came with, with a drop in NA cam with no issues, or should I at least run midgrade aka 89 octane or higher. I will have to machine the head as well because it got scratched so compression might sit around 11:1. But I'm not sure yet. I know my P2P ecu seems to run things just fine right now with the y7 long block, but I really just want to be able to use the full rev range for once with this car. If I need a new ECU, what do you recommend? Because I currently have a second p2p from a 99 civic, and maybe I should just scrap it or sell it? Maybe a full rebuild is a better idea as well since I still want them same longevity? I don't know if I need to overbore though if I do or if the cylinder walls just need to be scored again for proper ring break in
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '98 Civic Hatch - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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If your compression is at 11:1, I would definitely tune it. Just a decent street tune. Plus, the experience you get when it's all done is worth it x10. That way, you know EXACTLY what the engine is doing and you can use the whole powerband without worrying.

I think stock compression on a Y8 is 9.6:1 ...and 11:1 is considerably higher. But that's just me. Someone else may say "go for it"...

But I would be worrying the whole time I was driving it...not knowing exactly what was going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If your compression is at 11:1, I would definitely tune it. Just a decent street tune. Plus, the experience you get when it's all done is worth it x10. That way, you know EXACTLY what the engine is doing and you can use the whole powerband without worrying.

I think stock compression on a Y8 is 9.6:1 ...and 11:1 is considerably higher. But that's just me. Someone else may say "go for it"...

But I would be worrying the whole time I was driving it...not knowing exactly what was going on.
Yeah 9.6:1 is a y8 cr, 9.4:1 for the y7, which is what the bottom half might stay. Honestly I'm not entirely sure what to expect for the car besides what I've read from a cr calculator, and though I haven't gotten the y8 head milled yet, I know 11:1 would be about the highest it could be. Just not sure if a s300 hondata is worth the time for just trying to get basically stock performance out of the engine. It's just hard trying to figure out what to do;but I absolutely hate the engine being in limp mode and restricting my rev range to 5.6k rpm despite running fine otherwise.
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '98 Civic Hatch - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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Yeah 9.6:1 is a y8 cr, 9.4:1 for the y7, which is what the bottom half might stay. Honestly I'm not entirely sure what to expect for the car besides what I've read from a cr calculator, and though I haven't gotten the y8 head milled yet, I know 11:1 would be about the highest it could be. Just not sure if a s300 hondata is worth the time for just trying to get basically stock performance out of the engine. It's just hard trying to figure out what to do;but I absolutely hate the engine being in limp mode and restricting my rev range to 5.6k rpm despite running fine otherwise.

You could absolutely go the cheap route and get around the Hondata thing.
Get an OBD1 ecu and chipping kit, ASPX D2 wideband controller for $55, 4.2 sensor for 25-32 bucks on eBay, datalogging cable for 20-25 bucks, and I know an emulator that is dirt cheap. Around 75 bucks. The ECU could vary depending on who you get it from..but for the tuning stuff alone, you're talking 175-200 bucks. And you can absolutely use Honda Tuning Suite, which is fully functional, for free.

That's waaaaaay cheaper than dealing with Hondata....
And you'll know exactly what your car is doing.
 
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