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98 Civic CX-T on E85
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
****BUILD IS COMPLETE!!!****
Tuned on Neptune EMS by Servion in CO Springs on Revolutions Performance Dyno Dynamics Dyno which reads 15% lower than all other dynos.
NEWEST #s as of 4/14/12





Ok guys after having my car Turbo'd for over 3 years now on a stock block, and going back and forth on whether or not to build it, The time has finally come to do it. This is going to be a slow build so bare with me please.

A little History:
The motor i will be building is my original D16Y7 out of my car. I pulled the motor over 3 years ago while still in perfect running condition. The reason i pulled it was because my car was approaching the 235,000 mile mark. I wanted to make sure i had a reliable motor for when i turbo'd my car, so i found a D16Y7 w/25,000 miles on it tucked away in a shed at a local salvage yard. It's been running great since turbo day 1. For the last few years I've wanted to build my original motor, but something always came up when the time came to do it. 2010 is finally looking promising! I just got a raise back up to where i was at before i took a pay cut December of 2008, so no more living paycheck to paycheck!

Goal:
My Goal of this build: Reliable DD on E85.

Build List:
My build list is small, reason being i have most of the Bolt on parts already since my car has been turbo'd so long. so really its going to be internals.

-Vitara Pistons 75.5-received
-FJT Rods- received
-Honda Oil Pump-received
-Honda Water Pumpreceived
-ACL Race Bearings- received
-Felpro Headgasket- received
-ARP Headstuds- received
- Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors-received
-Timing Belt- received
-38mm External Wastegate- received
-T3 Vband flange for external Wastegate-received
-38mm Dump Tube-received
-Cam Gear-received
-Ported and Polished Head-Received
-Lenso VPD/ MH Slicks-received
-Oil Return Kit-Received
-Odyssey PC680 Battery-Received
-96-98 Front Bumper cover-Received
-96-98 SI Replica Grill-Received
-Omni 3 Bar Map-received
Will post more as i figure it out.

***Notes to Self***
-804 Kilometers = 500 Miles
-Rod Tangs face towards Exhaust Side
-Piston Arrows Face toward Flywheel
-ARP Rod Bolts Torqued to 43FT/LB use Lube!!! torque each bolt 3 times before final torque!!!
-NO BEER UNTIL AFTER ITS ASSEMBLED OR YOUR DONE FOR THE NIGHT.
***Useful Links***
http://theoldone.com/articles/engine_tips/piston_facts/pistonfacts.htm
The Old One - Energy Dynamics : Articles
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/engine_tips/piston_facts/pistonfacts.htm
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/130891-clocking-rings.html
arp rod bolt torque specs


So today i went to my parents house to go start disassembling the motor. i took off all the main bolton parts pulled my Oil Pan, VC, Timing Belt and Girdle. Internally everything still looked great!!! NO RUST ANYWHERE!!! i kept oil in it and turned the crank over once a month to keep everything free.

Heres a couple pics of the head...not bad for 235,000 Miles!!



As Usual the only problem i had was the crank pully which was a PIA to take off...i broke my camgear thinking it would be strong enough to hold the crank still while i used a breaker bar...FAIL...but i ended up getting it off a different way.



so a couple questions...
i couldnt find it in my haynes manual, but is there a certain order i have to follow to remove the head bolts so i dont warp the head??
what size pistons should i go with 75mm or 75.5??
 

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98 Civic CX-T on E85
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Discussion Starter #3
75.5mm vitara for sure!!!
You dont want (stock size) 75mm slug in your worn out cylinder...
Do you think i will get piston slap with 75mm? I read that for higher hp goals you want a bigger p2w gap...so if I bore it to 75.5 how much over that do I go to get the right p2w gap?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so from what i have been reading, the people who go with the 75mm pistons have a P2W clearance of between .006-.008 which is loose but have not had problems with it sealing after its warm. correct me if im wrong but arn't vitaras supposed to be more on the loose side of things than tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i had mine bored to .0040" ptw. most bore to .0035" 75mm wil def slap because they are not truely 75mm that are a hair under
so on 75.5mm that would be ontop of the already .020over so i would want to have it bored .0240 over?? man do i feel like a :3dtard:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
if you want 75.5, take your pistons and your block to your machinist and tell him what p2w clearance you want. He will take care of the rest.
thanks for the response!! that sounds a lot simpler than i thought!
 

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When you build something (rebuild too) do the work the right way.
When putting new piston in a block, each cylinder have to be bored and honed to fit exactly each new piston. Old worn out cylinder are not round, they are oval shaped.
If you use 75mm there is not enough meat in the cylinder to bore and hone them to fit 75mm pistons.
And for PTW clearance, I'm not a big fan of 0.004''+ clearance:nono:
It is a ''myth'' or a ''rule'' (0.001'' each 100hp)because the more boost you run, the more heat and the piston expand more...
Go check the vitara build thread of CripTofer:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/87123-my-d16z6-vitara-build.html
He use OEM STANDAND PTW clearance in his 75.5mm vitara build and everything went fine!!!
0.004'' ptw will work but it is like if you start the life of your engine with a ptw comparable of a 200 000 miles old engine....piston slap and premature wear.
 

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wait shimmed waterpump? i think you mean oil pump. You gonna cam the bitch? you should. get a delta 272 for it. Cheap and effective
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
When you build something (rebuild too) do the work the right way.
When putting new piston in a block, each cylinder have to be bored and honed to fit exactly each new piston. Old worn out cylinder are not round, they are oval shaped.
If you use 75mm there is not enough meat in the cylinder to bore and hone them to fit 75mm pistons.
And for PTW clearance, I'm not a big fan of 0.004''+ clearance:nono:
It is a ''myth'' or a ''rule'' (0.001'' each 100hp)because the more boost you run, the more heat and the piston expand more...
Go check the vitara build thread of CripTofer:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/87123-my-d16z6-vitara-build.html
He use OEM STANDAND PTW clearance in his 75.5mm vitara build and everything went fine!!!
0.004'' ptw will work but it is like if you start the life of your engine with a ptw comparable of a 200 000 miles old engine....piston slap and premature wear.
so i just read his build the P2W Clearance hes running is between .00040-.00016...is that correct or does he have one extra 0??

so i do know now that i will be ordering 75.5 pistons i just need help figuring out what to tell the machine shop for P2W Clearance, .002-.004?? is that the correct range?
 

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Hey xxjdmcivicek9xx,
Just saw that you are in GJ.. There are some pretty decent machine shops in GJ but DON'T take it to Larry Kisling Machine Shop.... I took him a D16 block with 10 over SRP pistons and he bored the block 20 and clearly never even looked at the P2W clearance ... don't think he even took the pistons out of the box... when I took it back and told him he pretty much just said oops your SOL..
Ive heard good things about Shining Knight Machine though!
GL with the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey xxjdmcivicek9xx,
Just saw that you are in GJ.. There are some pretty decent machine shops in GJ but DON'T take it to Larry Kisling Machine Shop.... I took him a D16 block with 10 over SRP pistons and he bored the block 20 and clearly never even looked at the P2W clearance ... don't think he even took the pistons out of the box... when I took it back and told him he pretty much just said oops your SOL..
Ive heard good things about Shining Knight Machine though!
GL with the build!
thanks for the heads up! my friends dad owns Top End Performance and so im probably going to have them do my block cost is going to be around $100.00 to bore and hone.
 

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Nice! I have a friend that works at a machine shop here in FoCO and im gettin my shit done for freeeeee ahah love it..
do you ever see this car around GJ??? I built it back in high school.. i think its flat black now.
 

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so i just read his build the P2W Clearance hes running is between .00040-.00016...is that correct or does he have one extra 0??

so i do know now that i will be ordering 75.5 pistons i just need help figuring out what to tell the machine shop for P2W Clearance, .002-.004?? is that the correct range?
1 thousandth= 0.001
OEM PTW standard(new) 0.0004 to 0.0016 (0.4 thousandth to 1.6 thousandth)
OEM PTW service limit 0.002 ( 2 thousandth)

But OEM arent mean to run boost....and 0.004 is too much imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
1 thousandth= 0.001
OEM PTW standard(new) 0.0004 to 0.0016 (0.4 thousandth to 1.6 thousandth)
OEM PTW service limit 0.002 ( 2 thousandth)

But OEM arent mean to run boost....and 0.004 is too much imo.
First off thanks for all the help! So it seems I will probably go with a .002 PTW
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Are you balancing the bottom end?
no probably not, if i was planning on making a ton of power i would do it but for a DD i dont think its really necessary.
 

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Are you balancing the bottom end?
In the old forum of theoldone, someone asked if there is needed to balance honda crankshaft. Larry answered that honda crank are very well balanced from the factory and he doubt that your local machine shop have an as good balancer machine than the honda factory.....

Yesterday, I read the first engine build thread of rushi. He send his crank to be balance an he say it was perfect from the factory....

Aftermarket rod are usually all within +- 1 gram from each other. ''Same thing'' for pistons......
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Welp finally got some more done on the engine!! i was able to finish taking it all apart!!!everything looks good internally except for 1 main bearing closest to the timing belt, it looked like it rubbed a bit but the crank looks perfectly fine.:3dtard: now to order the new pistons and rods and send it off to the machine shop!









 
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