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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, So I install my throttle body I recieved in the mail. It wasnt bubble wrapped or even packed at all. Just a throttle body in a big priority envelope. the paper flimsy ones, not the cardboard ones.

anyway, I install a new gasket and the tb that came in the mail. Had to switch rotors because it wasnt the right one on it.

anyway, I start the car and the idle shoots up to 3000 or 3500 and fluctuates between 2000-2300-2000-2300 so on and so forth. on a cold start sometimes if its been sitting over night, it will just hang at 3000 till i start driving.

When I start driving and it gets even the slightest bit warmed up, the idle fluctuates from 1500rpms to 2600rpms over and over. It sounds like Im revving the car, then letting the rpms drop to 1500 then revving it again to 2600.

MY original problem was MIL 14. That means i needed a new iacv. The idle was going from 1800-1300 over and over.

So what do you think the problem is now? Is the map or tps sensor bad with this new tb? I swapped my old TB back on and now it has the same problem as the TB i recieved in the mail had.

I have a fucking feeling this idle problem is never going to go away. Also, I already got a new PCV valve installed

also if i remove the clip for the iacv the idle stays around 1900 rpms and the bouncyness increases...cant drive it tho or it will bog under 2k..i have to rev it to take off.

also if i remove the tps clip the idle shoots way up.

you guys think its a vac leak ? and where could it possibly be?

if i try to drive the car with the iacv unplugged it bogs and shit. but only under 2k i believe. but i didnt want to drive it like that so i didnt do any further testing

EDIT:

ALSO if i keep the TB covered, the car stays on. and if i cover the IACV hole INSDIE the tb, the idle stays around 1900 but doesnt fluctuate.
 

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I got Bit by the Boost Bug
Bmw 528e
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1,233 Posts
If it wasnt the right rotor,Its possible it may be wrong TB,I had a automatic TB on my 91 hatch that idled like that,So i switched it out to a manual TB and it fixed my problen just fine.That would be my guess in all this,Also check all vac lines and brake booster line,That one tends to stay loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didnt remove any lines, Only the 2 lines that went to the iacv. So i take it i should swap the iacv to the old tb then?
 

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BMX bike
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2,938 Posts
cover the iac hole w your finger while the engine is running and see if it does anything
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok when i start the car it bolts to like 3500 or so, then drops to 2000 then goes from 2000-2300 over and over

when i plug the iacv hole it stays @ 1900 thats also a cold start too
 

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Discussion Starter #11
allright so i drained my coolant and put my old throttle body on with the "new" iacv.

now i have the idle going from 2000-2300 just like the other tb. WTF HAPPENED?

if i remove the electrical clip from the iacv my car chugs at 1900

no cels yet, because i didnt want to let it run that long. its pretty fucking loud and annoying
 

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Poop Sock
wrx & slut rex
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3,798 Posts
calibrate your tps. back probe it and adjust it to .45. you cant just screw your tps on. its adjusted by rotating it. thats the first thing id do. it's easy breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
i never took it off or anything, how do i adjust it?

with any digital multi meter


do you think this has been my problem the whole time? why would i have gotten a code for the tps?


edit: can i test it before i drill it and recalibrate it? to see if i even need to do that
 

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'91 CRX Si
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2,158 Posts
i never took it off or anything, how do i adjust it?

with any digital multi meter


do you think this has been my problem the whole time? why would i have gotten a code for the tps?

all you have to do is loosen the screws and turn it to adj.

your ecu wants to see .45v closed throttle and 4.5v WOT

any digital multimeter should work
 

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Discussion Starter #16
there are no screws. its like a rounded thing. no spot to put a screwdriver in.

im seriously about to drink some fucking coolant haha
 

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'91 CRX Si
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there are no screws. its like a rounded thing. no spot to put a screwdriver in.

im seriously about to drink some fucking coolant haha
yeah, i forgot only the JDM ones have star screws.

all you need to do is take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and cut slits into the heads so you can use a flathead screwdriver to loosen
 

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BMX bike
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It sounds like a vacume leak to me.... I mean cover all bases if you want, but If you covered the IAC and it was still at 1900 that is too high. I say replace the TB gasket and be sure to torq to proper spec and look for any other leak areas.

does the tb have a FITV ?
 

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95 integra
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504 Posts
calibrate your tps. back probe it and adjust it to .45. you cant just screw your tps on. its adjusted by rotating it. thats the first thing id do. it's easy breeze.
you giveing advice lol j/k thats sounds lie his problem. Or it maybe vaccum leaks
 
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