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Discussion Starter #1
It's pretty grim:




So, for some reason, the middle cam holder hasn't been getting an oil feed and consequently it's gotten a tad hot and worn the shit out of everything.
This is the first start up of the engine after it was rebuilt with forged internals and sleeves. It was running for about 3minutes before it died and I started investigating.

It's a 59300 cam, lots of head work. D16Z6. So TBH I really want to save it!!


IIRC, the oil way is actually right by this holder!!
All the others were getting oil and the feed hole doesn't look blocked. Maybe something fell out of it :eek:


Do this look pretty much scrap now or do you think it might be salvagable, perhaps with some shells (can do you that to a Honda head?) ?


I'm thinking. The cam is steel so it could well clean up.
The cam cap can be replaced with a new part.
That leaves the head.

Can I get away with cleaning up the head but knowing there will be a gap between it and the cam? Does that matter?
The cam naturally wants to go upwards and the cam cap will stop that happening, does the head half of the holder need to touch the cam?
 

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you could get it alighn honed with a new cam cap and run oversized bearings. you could get the cam check out to see if its salvageable. but you dont want to just slap new bearings in and see if it will work you will endup at the same place or worse the cam may snap then your new forged pistons will get real angry at your valves and other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, but you don't run bearings in the cam holders. Not stock anyway.

If something is available after market then I'll happily use them.

Right now, to me, it looks like:

1) junk the head and call it experience

2) replace the top holder and fix/replace the cam, polish the bottom hald of teh holder which is part of the head but accept a gap between it and the cam.

3) magical solution someone is going to tell me about and make my day :)
 

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WRX
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ok....something like this happened to me on my subaru. I guess when it was put back together after the build it wasnt as clean as it needed to be. whatever was in the passage wore a groov in my cam and journal. What they did was polish the journal out or hone it, not really sure. I know you will have to have them all done. Then they cut the caps down to fit. Im not sure of the exact process but it can be fixed. After this fix my car made 586whp and safely revved to 8500rpm. So i know it is fixable. If you would like i can get my builder to email me exactly what he did and ill send it to you. It is worth a try.
 

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What if you welded the journal and reshaped/polished it and line bored it to match the other journals size?
 

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i have a build head i did sitting in my garage right now, it was the original one that was gonna go on my car, my machinist told me not to even bother with the head, he said dont even waste my time with it. now what he has told my friends with DSMs before was to grind the cap and the head on that journal out so it doesn't touch at all, and plug the oil hole and be done with it. there are 4 other journals holding it in place...

thats what he has told my friends, i personally didn't want to go that route and bought a build head, i thought about doing it, and assembling the head and putting a 2nd motor together for a daily. IDK. we'll see, but it is a possibility. My one friend has done that to 3 motors, they all ran ok after.
 

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wheres my money man!!
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What if you welded the journal and reshaped/polished it and line bored it to match the other journals size?
the cost of that would exceed the cost of a new cam a junk yard head and a new pp, he be better off getting another head pp that one transfer his springs and valves and getting the cam reground somewhere
 

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WRX
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the cost of that would exceed the cost of a new cam a junk yard head and a new pp, he be better off getting another head pp that one transfer his springs and valves and getting the cam reground somewhere
You are probably right. But it can be fixed and he sadi that he wanted to keep it so....i posted my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice guys.

Worth mentioning that I am in the UK so the prices for things differ from the USA, plus the availability.

It might make more sense here to get the ehad fixed, tho I'm going to throw on a spare Z6 stock head and deal with it for now.

I've seen posts of 400WHP on a stock Z6 so I guess I can still make the power even without the nice head and cam. At least for now.

I'll see about getting some better pics from different angles.
Still just cannot understnad why this didn't get oil.
Unless there was a serious flaw in the cam or holder being too large and rubbing right away, but she turned fine by hand.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Cam can be saved.

If the head is stock, junk it.

Now if it had $1500 in portwork it would be worth trying to save.
 

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Not sure if it can be fixed if you get a price post it up because I wanna know and throw that POS cam away.. they had a bad run or something because i've personally seen 3 of them do exactly the same thing.. mine included, same journal... mine also looked like someone beat the shit out of the primary intake and exhaust lobes right on the peaks and chipped a bunch of metal out of it.. no more comp cams for me!

Ben


I had 8 of those because my cam decided to quit spinning at the track at 7k+ rpms..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Now if it had $1500 in portwork it would be worth trying to save.
Yep. Not exactly sure on the figure spent, but apparently it's a Dave Hickman Racing head, so possibly worth saving.

Engine back out of the car, checking the bottom end.
All big end bearings are ok but for the one by the oil pump.
Thank fuck for bearings.
The crank looks ok. No scoring at all but the bearing is a definate replacement.
Aint checked all the rods yet.

TBH I think a full bearing set for piece of mind.

Laskey bottom end too. :pinch:
Of the cuff, anyone know what bearings they build with?


Still not sure WTF happened. Looks like nothing was getting oil, but the pump is primed and nothing is blocked. Tho perhaps it was previously?
So much for running around with this over the xmas break.


I'll update when I get a price on fixing the head. A friend over here has sent me details of a classic car restoration place he says "works magic" so I'll get a quote from them.
 

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Same exact thing happened to me and took me 2 months to figure out why i had low pil pressure. was running the same cam and everything. Rebuilt my engine twice because of this shit!! arrggh no more comp cams for me also... Although I do miss the top end power it provided.
 
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