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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It hailed with rain, was dressed in my suit, ( for rare occasions ) after seeing lawyer, it hailed and wipers had to be on full speed.

All of a sudden the wiper blades froze upright, I thought fuse had blown.

Waited for rain n hail to stop, got to a garage, they checked fuses, all good.
Wiper motor was hot, yet not working, even when in Off position.

Was not far from home, thought I get there.
But, while driving I noticed the arm was trying to re-set itself, still stork switch was on the Off position. Checked under hood and the wiper motor casing was still very hot.
Stopped by a side street and tried to unplug main wiring to wiper motor to no avail, had no tools or screwdriver to pry it loose.

Called road service, he checked it all and found possibly a clip had fallen off in the the gutter part where the wiper arms connect to the wiper motor.

OK,
Needs workshop attendance, he pry the electrical plug to the wiper motor, unplugged it and away I went. All safe.

Had a look myself today, it seems I have to remove the all plastic coverings, with a torch I did see some plastic clips and washers had fallen off.

Has anyone had this problem before and how can it be fixed, will I need new clips etc, what clips are they, before I pull everything apart ?

Checked e-bay for specific clips, I don't know yet exactly why wiper arm seemed jammed in the full up-right position, and yet it was trying to re-set even when the stork switch was on Off, and wiper motor getting hot .

Thanks
 

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sounds like the wiper transmission took a crap for the most part.

The plastic bushes in the linkage get turned into mushy chowder with that age.

I dunno why its called wiper transmission and not wiper linkage, but that is the searching name to help you on ebay
 

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heres a lil diagram. check all the ends and see if anything is binding up.

that wiper motor getting really hot means it may also be "hurt" and may need replacing if it acts goofy once linkage is checked out
 

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Once you remove the black plastic cowl (pop off the little covers and remove the screws underneath) you'll see the ridiculously small key'd axle that the motor uses to drive the wiper arms. I'd unbolt the motor from the mechanism, then remove the mounting bolts of the motor and check the motor operates freely, and also check for bind by operating the linkages by hand.

Also just check that the wipers weren't put on in the incorrect position, and they weren't just blown off the side of the windshield where they can just get stuck.
 

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To gain access you need to pull the wiper arms for the most room.
Then remove the plastic covers over the screw that are holding the cowl on along the top (side closest to the windshield)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips,
it's now finding convenient time as it's my only daily runner, just have to dodge the rain
 

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Just drive between the rain drops.

Have you ever tried using RainX?
Its a spray on water repellent I have used it in the past for similar situations. Just follow the direction and don't let it sit on the glass long. I drove an F150 for over a year with out a wiper motor or arms had the parts was just waiting for the best time to replace them since it was my daily. A friend of mine used it on his entire vehicle to help keep mud off when off road. It was funny to watch him hit a huge puddle because it would bead up and roll off immediately he also used WD-40 on the undercarriage as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok,

I started to remove stuff from project car to get to the wiper arms.
What I found are those clips, what they look like etc.
Pried one off and can see over time they will deteriorate.
The pictures show the one clip off the project car, and I am happy this is as far as it goes without going "over the line" to donor car.

It seems these types of clips are used everywhere, so if I cannot get OEM, does anyone know where else I can possibly get these ?
Would metal "dome clips" work better than plastic ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I can't see it on diagram, on the 2 pictures I uploaded it goes over that ball swivel part and holds the arm in place. I think there are 3 in total

Some searches I found a youtube, it might be the part number, not sure because he does not show the actual item in the OEM bag.


This is the part number when you watch that youtube,

part number: 76540 SR3 - 003
HONDA GENUINE PART

On a Honda parts pages, it does not explain much.

Going for drive to a Honda service, see what they have to say.
 

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its number 7 most likely in the diagrams posted by myself and EFB

EDIT when you find the part number, google or duckduckgo search the part number in images, and generally you can see it inside its OEM baggy, maybe form someones build guide, or updating their maintenance thing ona forum, etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I went to a Honda dealership, they looked it up and that plastic cap does not come alone, one has to buy the complete arm etc.

So I started to think out-side-the-box type of solution/s, so it fixed long term.

So, what we have here is a ball joint, and on fast speed it can be under imense pressure, too much pressure for a plastic coupling, in my opinion.

So what has this size type ball joints that swivel ?
Go-Carts came to mind, the steering linkages. Or Modified systems on hot rods and carburetors.
I had to become a bit coy with my questions, and not mention immediately it's a 30 year old car, that I am just looking for a solution out-side-the-box type of thing, and one I see interest, then I slowwwwly say what it is.

The Go-Cart place showed interest and suggested I try looking at their steering arm swivels

IF, and if push comes to shove, there may be a solution requiring some metallic surgery on these wiper arms and wiper motor ball joint.

I bought one steering swivel to size things up, and will think it through a bit more,
The pictures show what I mean, this all metal steering swivel may supersede the OEM, and last longer ?
 

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The linkage assembly sells for around $100 USD on ebay.

Probably cheaper than the gokart parts, I think
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The linkage assembly sells for around $100 USD on ebay.
Have to be accurate linkage assembly, probably electric motor,
Right Hand Drive here.

Factor in the exchange rate, then the shipping.

Surely those that have done every bolt restorations would have a clue ??
 

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what are the odds of a mate with a 3d printer?
 
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