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2000 Honda Civic Ex
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422 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I can't get these sensors to last past 3 months. I have a bung welded in 1ft after my exhaust bolts to the DC headers wrapped in thermal zero header wrap.
Its in a D16Y8 stock with 2.25" exhaust.
Do u have it to close to the motor?
Will a non fouler work?
 

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Banned
96 civic
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17 Posts
best bet is to get the heat sink adapter for the sensor.

My senor is shot on my build. Keeps reading wrong ratios and keeps showing me an E8 message which says either to recalibrate or sensor is shot.

They last 3-4 months at best of daily driving.

I use my sensors for about 20 passes then i get new ones. They are only about $30 a piece.

I use innovate mtxl wideband
 

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Registered
2000 Honda Civic Ex
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422 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
best bet is to get the heat sink adapter for the sensor.

My senor is shot on my build. Keeps reading wrong ratios and keeps showing me an E8 message which says either to recalibrate or sensor is shot.

They last 3-4 months at best of daily driving.

I use my sensors for about 20 passes then i get new ones. They are only about $30 a piece.

I use innovate mtxl wideband
$30 where? I paid $60 for mine on Amazon.
Mine is showing 22.4 and e8 too. This one only lasted a month usually about 3. That sucks. What elae can I do to extend the life? They should last a year.
 

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Registered
93 maybe 94 coupe
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289 Posts
Mine is good, been daily driving for almost a year. I use a simple nut with a bit over 1/2 inch extension welded to the header collector, no heat sink.

Guess i should be preparing for failure, its only issue so far was a constant heating indication for about 3 days after a big rainstorm, thought it was the sensor, ended up being a loose terminator plug. (Innovate lc1)

Also yes, 30$ where? The lowest i found was 48 locally plus tax for a vw sensor
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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2,936 Posts
Don't run retardedly rich, wipe the sensor off when you calibrate it, and calibrate often.

Unless your sensor is right next to a turbo or you're running reeeeeeeeeally rich, almost the point of fouling your plugs, any decent sensor should last FAR longer than 3 months.


One time I had to completely re-calibrate the LC1 (unplug the sensor, power on the control unit, plug in the sensor, then do a free-air calibration) when it was giving some oddball signal output but I haven't had a problem since then.
 

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B-series Destroyer
4g 4d civic
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913 Posts
I run the innovate LC-2. I have been running it for over a year. It was originally mounted 18" inches after the turbo, now it is mounted just behind the block(2 1/2 feet after turbo). No issues with mine. I intend to recalibrate mine at the beginning of each year.

Is there any chance you have it mounted so that condensation is hitting the sensor? That can wreck them.
 

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15 Posts
Zeitronix wideband lambda sensor



Simple hook-up guide that will work on virtually all Honda’s





There is a wide variety of wideband lambda sensors on the market. Of all these sensors I am very happy with the Zeitronix wideband lambda sensor and its controller. I run 2 of these sensors on a daily bases in my cars. Other sensors I’ve never mounted, so this guide is aimed solely on the ZT2. But probably reading this guide while mounting another brand of sensor will help you in the right direction.



The heart of the system is the ZT2 wideband AFR controller. All cables and apparatus are connected to this controller as described in the Zeitronix manual. I will only focus on connecting the signal harness with the rest of the car. This Zeitronix harness plugs into the controller on one side and has 12 wires that should be connected to the cars electronics. The following table is the table as given by Zeitronix for their ZT2 Model 2009 or earlier, appended with Honda circuit codes. The 2010 model is not that different, but I have no experience with the new function on pin 8.



PIN #

WIRE COLOR

FUNCTION

HONDA CIRCUIT

CONNECT BY

1

RED

Switched power (ex. ignition)

IGP2

split from IGP2

2

WHITE

Wideband Analog Output

None or ELD

not or ELD to log with eCtune

3

GREEN

RPM Input. 0-12V square wave, tach signal or primary (low voltage) side of ignition coil.

ICM

split from ICM

4

ORANGE

Zeitronix Boost (MAP) Sensor Input

none

not

5

WHITE/BLUE

Warning Output (not available on oldest models)

none

not

6

YELLOW

Zeitronix Boost Sensor +5V Power. Connect ONLY to Zeitronix Boost Sensor RED.

none

Not

7

BLACK

Power Ground

PG2

split from PG2

8

BROWN

Only 2009 and earlier: Sensor Ground (EMS ground reference)

SG2

split for SG2

9

PURPLE

Simulated Narrowband O2 Output (for your stock ECU) / Linear Wideband Output

none or PO2S*

See note below*

10

GREY

Throttle Position Sensor

TPS

split from TPS

11

BROWN

Sensor Ground (Boost Sensor ground reference)

none

not

12

BLUE

User Input 0-5V

MAP

split from MAP



*Note on narrowband simulated signal. Here we have two options. Either measure and datalog with the wideband sensor, while keeping the original lambda sensor in its place and function. Or replace the original lambda sensor entirely. In the first case we do nothing with ZT2 pin 9 and leave it unconnected. In the second case the ZT2 pin 9 wire should be connected to the PO2S wire of the ECU. Except this time we do not split the PO2S wire like all the others, but we cut the P02S wire. The PO2S wire running to the ECU is connected with pin 9. The PO2S wire running into the engine bay should be isolated or removed. That part is useless now.



Note on the RPM, TPS and MAP signals. As far as I know these signals are features of the ZT2 so you can nicely datalog these very valuable sensors while driving. But these signals are not required by the ZT2 system to operate normally. The MAP sensor is not even recognized as a MAP sensor, it is just a 5V signal to the ZT2 which has no calibration. So, you will read 2.90V instead of 100 MPa for instance. But connecting and using these signals on the ZT2 unit is very easy and useful to do.



For explanations and locations of the Honda circuits I refer to my pinout schemes which can be found in the menu bar.



Please, send any questions and/or remarks to me.



Dodo Bizar

taken from this site Dodo Upgrades

maybe it helps
 

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EG5T
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96 Posts
Is there any chance you have it mounted so that condensation is hitting the sensor? That can wreck them.
^This. If your controller is powered up upon contact, the porcelane plate inside the o2 sensor heats up to 800-ish oC. Once the engine is started, the condensation droplets are are hitting the hot porcelane and are destroying it.
Consider using 30-60 sec time relay and/or rewelding the bung under angle/in a bend, so the droplets can't get inside of the O2 sensor.
 
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