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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Why do I go through coils/ignitors so quickly? Still need HELP!

Okay, so about 6 months to a year ago I purchased a brand new, reman Z6 dizzy and cracked it open. It was spottless and flawless; I installed it and it took away my OEM tach needle jumping. Perfect! or so I thought.

Over the last few weeks I've noticed at times the OEM tach to jump randomly and didn't think anything of it. Well now I have a nice gauge pod and an A-M 5" Tach to hook up. I got everything to work, but when I tapped into the "access port" for the tach signal my A-M tach would jump terribly high. If I reved over 3 grand the A-M would go crazy, though the OEM would steadily raise like normal.

Okay, so my thoughts are it's the coil or ignitor AGAIN. Could I assume correctly since the last time I replaced the whole dizzy that it "cured" the problem?

Thx!
 

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also, arent their setting on the tachs? for 4 , 6 , 8 cylinders? on the aftermarket....since you said the stock wasnt jumping, but the newly wired aftermarket was?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
also, arent their setting on the tachs? for 4 , 6 , 8 cylinders? on the aftermarket....since you said the stock wasnt jumping, but the newly wired aftermarket was?
Actually, the stock one is once again jumping around on me...just not to the pt where it's bad yet. But it did go crazy bad once as I slowly raised the rpms, jumping from 3 to 8k!

I downloaded the .pdf for my specific model on the A-M site. (very helpful site BTW!) I actually had to fix one wire loop the previous moron cut against what the instructions said. It says that for 2-pulse 4 cyl to cut only one of the two smaller wire loops. I tried the tach with both cut, but it was off 1/1.5k @ idle. So I soldered the brown wire together and the tachs were very close to equal @ idle.
 

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Sounds like your wire tap must have caused an open or ground in the system.
Check for continuity and proper voltage across the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I cleaned and grinded down all the engine bay grounds...still the same result. Thought I'd try a different wire (shielded wire), a tad better but still horrible tach bounce. What voltage or what measurement should I be receiving at the shock tower tach line? Should try a wire directly off the dizzy? Why would the tach be fine for the first 2500 rpm (equal to stock) then after that go wacko? ARGH!

Maybe I should swap out the one on the D15Z1 for this one a then check it?
 

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i'm going to bump this thread because a similar problem has been happening to me and i want to know if this was ever resolved. i'm going to rewire mine since i had to add the wires for the mpfi swap but i'd like to see what was resolved here!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nope, not solved yet! I was thinking about swaping over the DD dizzy...but I'd hate for that one to go "bad" as well.

Anyhow, I was looking at Auto Zone's website and they have dizzy's with lifetime warranty's for <$180 I believe. Just might go that route if I keep burning through them for whatever reason.
 

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97 Civic Coupe
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my friends 94 ex use to keep going through dizzy's, and he got the cheap see through one from advance its be on for almost a year probably, looks kinda shows the sparks all over the place...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Clear dizzy caps are the last thing on my mind! LOL

I tried three other VSSs and that didn't help either. 100% sure it's the coil/igniter.
 
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