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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a turbo ef/ed hatch with a traction bar and no front mount.

With 3 Innovate mounts, the motor still moves too much so I'm thinking about welding only the rear mount solid.

Who else has tried this and how did you like it?

Car is not a daily but it does see a reasonable amount of street driving. Open downpipe, open wastegate, slammed and tucking tire, no radio, no interior, rust holes through the floor boards and expired 2 years ago license plates, so it's not really a "street car."
 

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1991 Honda CRX
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Cheapest way is get some OEM mounts, weld them up and sell the innovate mounts. I have 88A on my DD, and the engine barely moves. You could just upgrade the urethane and see how that works. I had a civic with solid mounts, it gets annoying for a street car but is definitely the best choice for a race car. It is pretty fun though because when you get on it, you really feel the engine.
 

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Cheapest way is get some OEM mounts, weld them up and sell the innovate mounts. I have 88A on my DD, and the engine barely moves. You could just upgrade the urethane and see how that works. I had a civic with solid mounts, it gets annoying for a street car but is definitely the best choice for a race car. It is pretty fun though because when you get on it, you really feel the engine.

I was gonna say the same thing. I've rocked a solid rear before and I wouldn't do it again. But then again I'm old and the crazy vibration bothered me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good to know. I already have a stock rear mount and two pieces of 1/4" steel ready to weld together, I was just looking for some opinions before I welded and installed it. My turbo sits about 1.5 inches from the radiator and still hits it while banging gears, so I know the motor moves a good bit.
 

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Good to know. I already have a stock rear mount and two pieces of 1/4" steel ready to weld together, I was just looking for some opinions before I welded and installed it. My turbo sits about 1.5 inches from the radiator and still hits it while banging gears, so I know the motor moves a good bit.
That wouldn't be to bad an idea. Sucks you can't fab up some sort of front mount on that traction bar. That would def solve your problems.
 

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Same as above
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Ive been running all 3 mounts solid on my turbo ej1. I daily drive it with my 8 month old daughter she falls asleep to the vibration any other car she cries nonstop. Suck it up and transfer the power straight to the wheels.

Heres how i did it
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=187865
 

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B-series Destroyer
4g 4d civic
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912 Posts
I use innovative with 3 mounts and mine does not move.

Maybe you need a stiffer rear mount.

I am using the 95a(98a) or whatever the race mounts are.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ive been running all 3 mounts solid on my turbo ej1. I daily drive it with my 8 month old daughter she falls asleep to the vibration any other car she cries nonstop. Suck it up and transfer the power straight to the wheels.

Heres how i did it
DIY: Solid Motor Mounts - D-series.org
That's exactly how I'm doing mine but I'm using thicker steel and I have no plans on doing the side mounts.

I use innovative with 3 mounts and mine does not move.

Maybe you need a stiffer rear mount.

I am using the 95a(98a) or whatever the race mounts are.
I got whatever the cheapest ones were. 65a maybe? I can weld the stock one solid for free.

Poly fill the lower front trans mount, same with lower front engine side with with the AC bracket.. solved all of my problems.
88-91 civic only has 1 motor mount and front, side, back trans mounts. Due to space constraints, the front trans mount must be deleted.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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If you can avoid one single solid steel mount, try to as much as you can. You are going to localize every ounce of stress on to that single solid mount.

You will see failures.



For what its worth, Ive ran with 3x solid mounts. It really sucks. Its loud and obnoxious and it sucked. But the engine didnt move at all.
 
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