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Discussion Starter #1
i remember reading a while back that a few members installing arp headstuds without removing the head. for those who did, how is your car running now? and what method did you use to install the studs? thanks in advance
 

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d-series smartass
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why wouldn't you remove the head? the studs are the only thing holding it on. just pull it with the intake manifold still attached and it's no biggie. take the time to clean the head, at least the gasket material, and maybe even have it checked for warpage (pretty cheap), and replace the headgasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
9000_red said:
why wouldn't you remove the head? the studs are the only thing holding it on. just pull it with the intake manifold still attached and it's no biggie. take the time to clean the head, at least the gasket material, and maybe even have it checked for warpage (pretty cheap), and replace the headgasket.

i dont have that kind of down time right now. if i have to do all that i'll have to set this aside for a long weekend. but ive read before people had success in installing them one by one. come on people i know your there!
 

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ridin on rotas
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why are you replacing them? if your stock ones are holding fine, then why replace them?

I would at least expect to replace the head gasket when changing the head studs.
 

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Ferio inspired
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we didi this on my friends turbo ZC, just start in the middle and work your way out following torque specs. we torqued his to 80lbs as this is recommened by a lot of people to keep the head from lifting:beer:
 

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NastyHabitzCRX said:
we didi this on my friends turbo ZC, just start in the middle and work your way out following torque specs. we torqued his to 80lbs as this is recommened by a lot of people to keep the head from lifting:beer:
thanks thats what i was looking for. i have to wait for the motor to cool over night right? or can i just wait until the car cools down?
 

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I would think you are risking head warpage doing this. There is a specific procedure for loosening the headbolts. Might wanna reconsider. And if you do go ahead definitely let the motor cool down completely.
 

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I
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i would imagine installing them w/out removing the head, would be pretttty tuff! i would imagine they cant be torqued down to specs w/out removing the head... just my $.02 idk for sure :?
 

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Ferio inspired
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shit, have any of you guys done this other than me? it's easy does not 'warp the head', and saves a bunch of time:beer:
 
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I'm with rex on this one, If your not having issues and there is no need, then Don't touch it...

Do NOT follow arp's torque specs, it's the fastest way to warp the head. strip the block holes, or ruin the head gasket. Use only Honda torque specs from the HELMS or dealer. only add 2-4 lbs MAX.....

there is a specific way to remove and re-torque the studs, if it's not followed you will have issues. Also if you do not remove the timign belt it will cause problems because it will put pressure onthe front of the head where the gear is and this when you try to torque it will be off. If your hell bent in jacking with it even though you don;t have too, then at least do it RIGHT.... Remove the belt, and remove the head, and properly set each stud. if you cna;t do this then you should NOT be screwing with it.

if you do not follow this then do us a favor. when it blows up, breaks down, then don't ask us for help as we re all trying to tell you the right way and your refusing to follow it. I hate wasteing my time on someone who asks for the right way then does everythign the wrong way and then cries after it breaks.
 

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NastyHabitzCRX said:
shit, have any of you guys done this other than me? it's easy does not 'warp the head', and saves a bunch of time:beer:
It's not the right way to do it. You got lucky.

It will only take an extra hour or so to do it right.
 

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Ferio inspired
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i just think it's funny how some of you guys have a Honda-tech type attitude towards it. we did this on my friends ZC turbo not too long ago, 234whp and daily driven. unless you have some PROOF that it damages something?
i have seen several guys around here do this and its fine, as long as you watch how you thread them into the block.
this is just an inexpensive, and time saving alternative to removing the head, draining the coolant, and removing a bunch of shit. to replace a headgasket that is 9 times outta 10 still good:beer:
 

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Rexinre said:
I just don't see the point. No offence.

:werd:

honda-tech attitude? more like the attitude of just doing something right. you will most likely not achieve getting the torque specs right. you may as well take the head off and replace the headgasket while you do it. reusing a headgasket is not a good idea, especially one that has been on awhile. It has conformed to the head and block and by releasing the pressure on it, it might not seal correctly again. Which would mean you would run the risk of damaging your car and at the very least having to pull the head. So I do not see why you would do this. Just do it right the first time and you wont have to do it a 2nd time. Also if your current headstuds are holding up fine, then do not replace them until you can put your car down for a day or 2.

just my opinion.
 
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^ yuppers that's another good reason.

when you relase the pressur eon the gasket, the head can pull the gasket appart some and thus causign it to leak.
 

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Ferio inspired
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mrnicolas said:
:werd:
honda-tech attitude? more like the attitude of just doing something right. .
ehhh that was a little harsh on my part, but you get where i'm coming from. i love this quote....."if everyone is thinking the same, then someone isn't doing any thinking at all".-George Patton.

maybe i was unclear but we removed each headstud one at a time, and retorqued it before moving onto the next one insequence. the 2 bolts next to the one removed are still torqued so i really can't see the head lifting, maybe on a b-series with a longer deck, but not a d-series where as the studs are still closer.
if you have a bunch of cheap friends like i do you run into this, and nowhere did i say this was the right way to do it. besides obviously sohc-gt has hear of other people having success, so why not try something new?:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well installed my arp headstuds yesterday one at a time with tightning sequence and had it street tuned later on that night 12.8 psi with a night of hard street racing. so far its holding up great. the only thing that took a great amount of time was when one of the arp headstuds snapped in the block. didnt even get to 70 lbs of torque and it snapped. we manage to drill it out of the block without removing the head and replaced the broken stud with one of the old stock head bolts. yup mad ghetto but it works.




oscarmayer said:
I'm with rex on this one, If your not having issues and there is no need, then Don't touch it...

Do NOT follow arp's torque specs, it's the fastest way to warp the head. strip the block holes, or ruin the head gasket. Use only Honda torque specs from the HELMS or dealer. only add 2-4 lbs MAX.....

there is a specific way to remove and re-torque the studs, if it's not followed you will have issues. Also if you do not remove the timign belt it will cause problems because it will put pressure onthe front of the head where the gear is and this when you try to torque it will be off. If your hell bent in jacking with it even though you don;t have too, then at least do it RIGHT.... Remove the belt, and remove the head, and properly set each stud. if you cna;t do this then you should NOT be screwing with it.

if you do not follow this then do us a favor. when it blows up, breaks down, then don't ask us for help as we re all trying to tell you the right way and your refusing to follow it. I hate wasteing my time on someone who asks for the right way then does everythign the wrong way and then cries after it breaks.


i didnt ask how to do it the right way, i know the right way would be best. but my head gasket not blown. i want to do something to prevent it from being blown in the future 8)



i'll update in the future if i have any problems.
 

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Adia's Daddy
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gftgrill said:
why are you replacing them? if your stock ones are holding fine, then why replace them?

I would at least expect to replace the head gasket when changing the head studs.
i agree. if you dont need to remove the head or change the head gasket, i would leave the stock head bolts in.

IMO if the change is because you are going to up the boost to the point where you need to upgrade to head studs, the head should be coming off anyways or be off already ;).
 

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Ferio inspired
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9000_red said:
why would you torque it to 70? i don't know why people do that
a couple of people have had problems with the head lifting under boost. the actual yield strength of the studs themselves is about 80ft blbs. i set mine to 75 and am confident i won't be blowing a headgasket

sohc-gt you shoul call ARP, i know they sell the washers seperate and i'm sure they wouldnt mind selling one stud by itself:beer:
 
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