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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Arp's rod bolts

So now that I've found out I have a jdm D15b block as well as my b7 I intend on boosting that.

Problem is I have a b7 head on it at the moment with an effective compression ratio of about 8.8:1 uising an si gasket.
I've gotten an offer to buy a greddy kit for under $800 for the complete kit.

I'm looking to make around around 200whp maybe a touch more if the bottom end can handle it: Do you guys think this is possible with my setup the way it is or would switching to say a y8 head and upping the compression make life easier? I'd MUCH rather not take the head off again, but I'm fine switching to another OEM cam to help the b7 head breathe better, and also another oem intake if that'll help (running the b7).

Your input and advice is greatly appreciated.

James
 

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I'd put a vtec head back on it (like it's supposed to be). And yes the jdm d15b bottom end will suport 200+whp.
 

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I'd put either a z6 or y8 head on it.

I'll be putting a z6 head on my d15b block when I get it back from the machine shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
If I put a vtec head I have to wire it...
I haven't searched yet on what that entails (full harness swap or just adding wires)
if I'm going to boost regardless what advantages would I have?
To keep things economical could I not just change my cam since I'm not looking for high power
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If I put a vtec head I have to wire it...
I haven't searched yet on what that entails (full harness swap or just adding wires)
if I'm going to boost regardless what advantages would I have?
To keep things economical could I not just change my cam since I'm not looking for high power
my goals have changed so many times since first having a b7 to work with. Since my goal was always 200+ hp as budget friendly as possibly If I can accomplish that without too much trouble using the b7 head and say an a6 cam I'd rather do that than buy a whole new head, wiring vtec, and still having to tune
 

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if flow is your concern, get a vtec head. since boosting it adds compression, you should be able to make up for your lack of static compression with a couple more psi if you stick with the head you have.
 

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if flow is your concern, get a vtec head. since boosting it adds compression, you should be able to make up for your lack of static compression with a couple more psi if you stick with the head you have.
Not a bad idea in theory, but as far as i know a higher C/R engine will spool the turbo a little better, so its worth doing (putting the vtec head back on that is.)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
My concern is making 225+ whp or max safe amount on the stock d15b bottom end hopefully not having to change this head. In other words if i can make 220whp with this b7 head and say a a6 cam or something i'd favor doing that over changing to a vtec head.

if flow is your concern, get a vtec head. since boosting it adds compression, you should be able to make up for your lack of static compression with a couple more psi if you stick with the head you have.
 

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So now that I've found out I have a jdm D15b block as well as my b7 I intend on boosting that.

Problem is I have a b7 head on it at the moment with an effective compression ratio of about 8.8:1 uising an si gasket.
I've gotten an offer to buy a greddy kit for under $800 for the complete kit.

I'm looking to make around around 200whp maybe a touch more if the bottom end can handle it: Do you guys think this is possible with my setup the way it is or would switching to say a y8 head and upping the compression make life easier? I'd MUCH rather not take the head off again, but I'm fine switching to another OEM cam to help the b7 head breathe better, and also another oem intake if that'll help (running the b7).

Your input and advice is greatly appreciated.

James
If your going turbo you might as well keep the non vtec head to have the lower compression, thats what turbos like anyways.
And I would personally use FJT kit for my bottom end so I could crank up the boost if I wanted to in the future.
But since it sounds like your not going that route at'least put some ARP rod bolts in your block, if not I would'nt want to push it to hard over 200hp. D-rods are like toothpicks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know d-rods are weak hense my reserve to want to go too high over 200 whp. If the d15b max safe hp is say 240whp, I wouldn't want to run more than around 215whp (90%) so I can have some give for pushing it hard. I intend on auto-x ing at least twice a month with it come spring, and even taking it to the track eventually, but by that time i'll probably build it and run a t3 type turbo.

If your going turbo you might as well keep the non vtec head to have the lower compression, thats what turbos like anyways.
And I would personally use FJT kit for my bottom end so I could crank up the boost if I wanted to in the future.
But since it sounds like your not going that route at'least put some ARP rod bolts in your block, if not I would'nt want to push it to hard over 200hp. D-rods are like toothpicks!
 

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I know d-rods are weak hense my reserve to want to go too high over 200 whp. If the d15b max safe hp is say 240whp, I wouldn't want to run more than around 215whp (90%) so I can have some give for pushing it hard. I intend on auto-x ing at least twice a month with it come spring, and even taking it to the track eventually, but by that time i'll probably build it and run a t3 type turbo.
O.K!
You asked what the max hp a stock block can handle and I told you.
If your going over 200 on a stock block, all the best to you. Either way spend the $35 bucks on a set of ARP rod bolts(if you don't know what they are you should look it up) so you can sleep at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
O.K!
You asked what the max hp a stock block can handle and I told you.
If your going over 200 on a stock block, all the best to you. Either way spend the $35 bucks on a set of ARP rod bolts(if you don't know what they are you should look it up) so you can sleep at night.
That wasn't an attack, and thanks for the advice. I know what rod bolts are, might do the head bolts also.
Question; can I simply drop the pan, remove one rod bolt and install the arp rod bolt and torque to spec/ loctite whatever is needed, then repeat for the other side of the same rod, then repeat for the other 3 rods? Or do I have to replace other things as well?

Maybe I'll tell my tuner 200whp and thats it! :bigok:
 
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