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Discussion Starter #1
I'm pulling my hair out with this, this should not be that complicated, can someone point me in the right direction for what is the correct distributor for this engine. I have bought 3 different dizzy's and none of the right side bottom ear line up with the mounting hole. Head is P2A2 . D15B Non-vtec JDM motor. I have 3 of these, none of them came with distributors, I have so far bought:

1. Distributor for 92-95 Honda Civic 1.5L D15B7 D15B8 D15Z1
2. Distributor 96-98 TD-80U 1.6L D16Y7
3. Distributor 92-95 TD-41U NON V-TEC

Anyone have a link to the correct one? And am I being stubborn with just not grinding off an ear? What are the ramifications of that?

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Discussion Starter #3
has he tried a z6 dizzy?

or just cut it..
I bought a 42u to try out next week. I guess the bottom line is, without wasting a bunch more time and money, I can keep the distributor I have and just grind off a ear, and flap disc it so it doesn't look like complete crap? There is no tuning difference? Range of timing, etc?
 

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OP, in your first post, your #1 and #3 disty's are the same.

#2 is of course as listed, for a Y7 or Y8 engine

Sounds like D16Z6 is the correct one. Odd a Y7/Y8 disty did not work, as the head is based around it. Ive seen a couple oddities with honda parts though.

If it helps, on the Z6, 2 of the ears are almost horizontal, compared to the d15b7's kinda tri-finger setup

Find some pictures of distributors on rock auto. THey will let you get a better idea.


Not sure why that did not occur before buying a bunch of parts. Parts sellers are a hidden research element to getting parts fitment questions taken care of! My #1 cheat tool to be honest lol
 

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One question for distributor on my Civic D14A4
I need to change o ring and oil seal.
How much oil can leak from bad o ring and oil seal?
Now my oil consumption is about one quart for 5k miles.No smoke from tailpipe, spark plugs are dry, no residue.
 

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Id say open your own thread, but I will answer regardless. A bad O-ring can piss away over a quart per couple hours of engine operation. It can also contaminate the ignition module and cap&rotor. If I came across your engine in a car I owned, it would get a new cap and rotor, new o ring, and I would buy a backup ignition control module if its been leaking for years
 
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The O ring IS the oil seal
 

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There is another seal on the bearing of the distributor, but it is not keeping oil inside. The oring is what goes bad and leaks all over the transmission
 
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I typically replace shaft seal and oring out of preventive maintenance, especially if the distributor is a good OEM unit that still seems to work ok. I hate the "new" replacement junky China crap units that are out there for so cheap, they are nowhere near as good as the OEM versions in terms of build quality so I try and save them if I can.

Some places sell both seal and o ring items together as a "kit" but they can be bought separately.

You have to check the shaft for wear on the internal seal, really old shafts with really old seals will have a seriously deep groove cut into them, and a new seal might not fix it depending on how bad it is.

Just take the dist cap off and look for oil pooling or signs of internal leakage. If nothing, then don't worry about replacing it unless you want to out of being anal for PM lol. Insert joke here...

My last really bad shaft seal on my old prelude caused the dist cap to fill up with oil and leak out the vent. Cleaned all oil out with flammable brake clean really good, dried everything with compressed air. New internal seal fixed it, and lasted the entire time I had the car.

The oring around the snout should get replaced regardless if it is old. This will leak like a MFer when they get hard lol. Insert joke here....
 
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