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2006 Suzuki Aerio
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Discussion Starter #1
i don't know if there's a better forum to ask this, but i'll try here...

so a long time ago, when it was somewhat popular to do so, i "upgraded" my ignition with an MSD 6A box and Blaster 2 coil. been using this combo for the past ten years.

cars running okay. if i stay out of the boost, it runs perfectly smooth. but i change my plugs every oil change because it starts to stutter/hesitate/miss in the upper RPM over time. with fresh plugs this doesn't happen.

hard to start most of the times. it cranks and cranks and cranks...when it finally turns over, it will idle so low sometimes it dies if the engine's cold. i do it again...give it some gas once it turns over, it will eventually kick the idle up to a grand and slowly rise to about 1500 +/-, then warms up normally until the idle drops to ~1000 (where its set at). if the engine's already warm, i still have to crank and crank and crank, but when it finally turns over, it will idle normally, no problem.

sometimes it starts up immediately and goes through the warming up process just fine.

i've noticed now that the weather is getting colder, its been starting up better than usual.

i'm ordering a bunch of ignition related crap (wires, plugs, cap & rotor), do any of you guys think i'll benefit from a new coil?

by no means is this car daily driven, but still, i haven't replaced my plug wires in just as long...about ten years. they're NGK wires, when should they be replaced? i've always overlooked this stuff i guess...
 

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2006 Suzuki Aerio
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
^^^ why? the car runs fine. i only listed known issues with the car in hopes of justifying a new $35 MSD coil.

if it ain't broke don't fix it, right...

...but if i were to listen to you, i might as well get a stock intake manifold, "and be done with it."

anybody else have actual experience with these? good or bad...
 

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B-series Destroyer
4g 4d civic
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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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3,364 Posts
i don't know if there's a better forum to ask this, but i'll try here...

so a long time ago, when it was somewhat popular to do so, i "upgraded" my ignition with an MSD 6A box and Blaster 2 coil. been using this combo for the past ten years.

cars running okay. if i stay out of the boost, it runs perfectly smooth. but i change my plugs every oil change because it starts to stutter/hesitate/miss in the upper RPM over time. with fresh plugs this doesn't happen.

hard to start most of the times. it cranks and cranks and cranks...when it finally turns over, it will idle so low sometimes it dies if the engine's cold.

i do it again...give it some gas once it turns over, it will eventually kick the idle up to a grand and slowly rise to about 1500 +/-, then warms up normally until the idle drops to ~1000 (where its set at). if the engine's already warm, i still have to crank and crank and crank, but when it finally turns over, it will idle normally, no problem.

sometimes it starts up immediately and goes through the warming up process just fine.

i've noticed now that the weather is getting colder, its been starting up better than usual.

i'm ordering a bunch of ignition related crap (wires, plugs, cap & rotor), do any of you guys think i'll benefit from a new coil?

by no means is this car daily driven, but still, i haven't replaced my plug wires in just as long...about ten years. they're NGK wires, when should they be replaced? i've always overlooked this stuff i guess...
Well, first off you shouldn't need to change your plugs every oil change. I'm sure you don't need me to tell you this indicates a problem that needs to be addressed before you proceed with troubleshooting.

Second, if the low idle happens with brand new plugs it could possibly be an idle air or a fuel delivery issue as well. But I would obviously troubleshoot the ignition system first since it's easiest to check and eliminate as a potential problem area.

To properly diagnose the ignition system, check for the presence and intensity of the spark (you can use a spark plug tester which looks like a spark plug itself or an inline tester with the flashing light). Then I would check the resistance of the coil.

However, if you don't have the tools to do check the ignition system and since you suspect it might be the coil anyways, given the fact it only costs $35 (I believe Honda ones are much more) you could try one and see if it fixes your issues. If it does, you're golden. If not, you've eliminated a possible cause and can continue with troubleshooting elsewhere.

^^^ why? the car runs fine. i only listed known issues with the car in hopes of justifying a new $35 MSD coil.

if it ain't broke don't fix it, right...

...but if i were to listen to you, i might as well get a stock intake manifold, "and be done with it."

anybody else have actual experience with these? good or bad...
Just because it isn't broken doesn't mean it is running as intended.

I too once rode the performance propaganda bandwagon back in the day. I wanted an entire MSD Sport Compact capacitive discharge system (basically one of their other 6-Series systems painted shiny silver with different decals :roll:). As I talked to more people on here and learned about them, I found out that the Honda ignition systems are reliable, easy to diagnose and work on and can handle most of what we will throw at our engines.

Case in point, I attended the Acura/Honda Apprenticeship Program in Toronto between Aug 2006-Dec 2008. Total length of the program is sixteen months where you alternate between two months in school and two months working at the dealership. During the electrical portion of the program, our teacher told us a story about one student in a previous group who bought into the hype and installed a brand new MSD system on his Civic prior to entering the program. By the time he graduated, he had to replace every single ignition component because it burned everything out. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, the works. I believe he went back to stock ignition after that.

Moral of the story...MSD has it's place and there are people who use them with success. But generally speaking, it's overkill for most Hondas and might cause more headaches than good.
 

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88 ED6
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if it ain't broke don't fix it, right...
I NEVER go by that. This essentially means you're waiting for it to break vs. preventing it.

I have a MSD cap/rotor/coil on my motor. Only thing noticeable is start-ups are much quicker.
 

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Registered
2006 Suzuki Aerio
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well, first off you shouldn't need to change your plugs every oil change. I'm sure you don't need me to tell you this indicates a problem that needs to be addressed before you proceed with troubleshooting.
thanks for your input, Steve-O. i'll take your advice and just replace it, and go from there. i've got ~13,000 miles on my current fuel filter, i might as well order one of those too, eh.

i almost don't want to accept this fact, but ambient temps are currently 60 deg and lower, whereas the car was tuned @ 122 degs...this definitely affects my obd0 tune huh? :pinch: i wonder if it somehow is causing the missing/stuttering at high RPM / Boost...
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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3,364 Posts
thanks for your input, Steve-O. i'll take your advice and just replace it, and go from there. i've got ~13,000 miles on my current fuel filter, i might as well order one of those too, eh.

i almost don't want to accept this fact, but ambient temps are currently 60 deg and lower, whereas the car was tuned @ 122 degs...this definitely affects my obd0 tune huh? :pinch: i wonder if it somehow is causing the missing/stuttering at high RPM / Boost...
For the price of them and the ease with which they can be changed, might as well start with a clean slate and eliminate other possibilities. From what I've been told and understand, if your fuel filter was clogged/impeding flow, you would have idling, engine performance or possibly fuel pressure conditions which are consistently poor all the time.

As for the tuning, I don't know much about turbo and boost tuning (Honda school unfortunately doesn't have a section teaching us how to modify and tune them LOL) but I would assume that if you set your ECM under certain ambient conditions and if it doesn't have the logic programming in it to adjust when those conditions change, it can affect the overall performance of the engine.

I think you're on the right track though. Once you know you have your ignition and fuel delivery up to snuff, you'll be in a better position to properly troubleshoot from there :TU:.
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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3,364 Posts
I NEVER go by that. This essentially means you're waiting for it to break vs. preventing it...
Also, given the fact I see what happens on a daily basis at work when people leave things until they break, you cost to "fix it" when it finally does break become exponentially greater than the cost to maintain it. There's a reason the old mechanic's motto is PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER.

We actually have had people at the dealership who come in with over 200,000kms on their vehicle and they DECLINE timing belt and water pump recommendations :pinch:.
 
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