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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I finally have everything back and ready to go to get my suspension back together. Yay!

Should I press the wheel bearings into the spindles first or onto the hub first? I've never done this before (obviously).

What say ye?

Anyone have any tips or tricks this?
 

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91 CRX Si
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33 Posts
It's been a while since I did this but I believe I did spindle first, especially since you have to put the giant C clip back in. Other than that all I can really remember or suggest right now is don't be shy about it
 

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265 Posts
Don't forget 134ft/lbs on the nut. I just saw your new mill, so I shouldn't have to say that you probably have a kick ass torque wrench too.

Cheers
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I don't. I just honk on them with bodyweight (a lot of that) on a 3/4" t-bar with a pipe extension.

Yeah, so, Bone . . . That thing you mentioned. You mentioned it because this would happen, right?



I thought I was using something that had enough overlap to hold the inner race, but, I was wrong:



Yes, that is a cheap coilover sleeve. It's nearly perfect for that opperation. Nearly. For pressing in the bearing, it is perfect. The locking collars are a scary good fit for inside of the spindle, but for pressing in the hub, well, you can see what happened.

Time to order another bearing. Blech.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,432 Posts
What is wrong with that bearing? Did you bother to repack it with hi temp grease like you talked about?

Why not?

Cheap HF sockets make GREAT press tools. So does black pipe from Loews along with caps and nipples.
 

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Same as above
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5,975 Posts
I always press the bearing into the knuckle first, using the old bearing to press the new one in, putting pressure on the outside edge of the new bearing. This is common practice for me since a lot of cars have a retaining clip thats a lot easier to install without the hub on. Then i place the hub on top of a large old bearing wheel studs down so the pressure is on the hub not the studs. Then i use an old inner bearing to put pressure on the inside of the new bearing and crunch it all down. Never had any problems


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
Joined
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11,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
What is wrong with that bearing? Did you bother to repack it with hi temp grease like you talked about?

Why not?

Cheap HF sockets make GREAT press tools. So does black pipe from Loews along with caps and nipples.
Not on this one. I want to experiment a little. I'll run one with the racing grease and on as is. Sure, it isn't the most scientific, but I think it will prove interesting.

The grease seal is boogered. The inner races are quite cockeyed. I can't trust the bearing, so I will replace it. Lesson learned.

I always press the bearing into the knuckle first, using the old bearing to press the new one in, putting pressure on the outside edge of the new bearing. This is common practice for me since a lot of cars have a retaining clip thats a lot easier to install without the hub on. Then i place the hub on top of a large old bearing wheel studs down so the pressure is on the hub not the studs. Then i use an old inner bearing to put pressure on the inside of the new bearing and crunch it all down. Never had any
I don't have any old bearings or I would have done that in the first place. Now I Can once I press out this boogered bearing. Thanks!
 

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Same as above
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Well i mean old as the one youre replacing it with. Usually when i pop out an old hub the inside bearing stays on the hub so i grind a diagonal line in the bearing with a cut-off wheel deep enough so i barely dont cut through it then stick an air chisel in the cut and it breaks it loose so i can just slide it off.

Im thinking of doing a diy next time i replace a wheel bearing...
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
peterbilt
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3,890 Posts
Press in spindle then add spring clip the press in hub till shiny ppart of shaft is not showing giggity
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
peterbilt
Joined
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3,890 Posts
I always press the bearing into the knuckle first, using the old bearing to press the new one in, putting pressure on the outside edge of the new bearing. This is common practice for me since a lot of cars have a retaining clip thats a lot easier to install without the hub on. Then i place the hub on top of a large old bearing wheel studs down so the pressure is on the hub not the studs. Then i use an old inner bearing to put pressure on the inside of the new bearing and crunch it all down. Never had any problems


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
This press outter ring putting in knuckle and press inner race when installing hub so race doesent come out
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
peterbilt
Joined
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3,890 Posts
Well i mean old as the one youre replacing it with. Usually when i pop out an old hub the inside bearing stays on the hub so i grind a diagonal line in the bearing with a cut-off wheel deep enough so i barely dont cut through it then stick an air chisel in the cut and it breaks it loose so i can just slide it off.

Im thinking of doing a diy next time i replace a wheel bearing...
This too also hammer and chisle work too
I did a diy here a long time ago
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
peterbilt
Joined
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3,890 Posts


snap ring


what bone was talking about



how to press wheel studs
 
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