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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
power surges

Let me start off by saying...i know i should have just changed the t belt

so i drop in a p08 ecu and a jdm d15b vtec. vtec had yet to be wired. i changed the plugs and plug wires. the belts seemed new so i didnt change them...i know this was stupid but the budget was tight and i was impatient. cranks up perfect on the first try. i drive a couple of miles the first day and leave it running while it sits for 5 min...in this 5 min the lower rad hose pops off and car shudders...i cut the motor off...PROPERLY attach hose..fill with fluid...turn key to where the gauges are on...temp seems fine ....so i turn the key and she fires right up (sorry for bad grammar...its a long story im trying to make short). i think the fan sensor had gone bad (least of my worries). ANYWAY....i drive around and she ran GREAT..till about mile 60 at this point im lightly on the throttle and its acting as though im going from 0% throttle to wide open INSTANTLY back and fourth...tach and spedo are acting funny...the check engine light is blinking erratically also (NOTE: the light was full on before, i think because i had yet to hook up vtec). i manage to limp her back 8 miles to my house just as it died. during this time i heard 0 metal on metal noises. sometimes while it was lurching it would miss fire. the t belt appears to be 2-3 teeth off time. i spoke to a honda mechanic and he said if im lucky all i need is a new timing belt...if im not...i effed up some valves. if anyone has any advise PLEASE help. im in the raleigh nc area if that helps. i figured i could do a compression test and that could tell me if ive messed up some valves but i cant seem to find a guide as to how to do that. as mentioned at the beginning...I KNOW i messed up by not changing the belts. :3dtard:
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
SERIOUSLY.....theres a chance i could fix this if the batt term is loose?! why would the t belt be off tho?
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
just went out and checked...the neg batt term seems a little loose but not horrbile. i forgot to mention that at one point i tried to crank her and the whole car shuddered and she wanted to crank but failed. i tried changing the t belt on my own but even after a propane torch...the crank nut wont come off so at this point im gonna have someone tow it and change the belt...i wanna do the comp test first so im not blowing my tight budget on a t belt change that wont fix it cause its got a bent valve.
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
at this point...if i charge the batt and try to crank it....dont i run the risk of smashing valves that may not already be effed up?
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ive heard that it being just a little off time will kill valves...which it is...i checked the time with the tdc on the top and bottom end...they are out of alignment just enough that it seems probably 2 teeth off. thats why im suspicious as to them being bent. it didnt seem to have ANY problem cranking multiple times that first day BUT a loose neg terminal would def explain the gauges having a seizure along with the light and come to think of it...all the issues would occur at random intervals...seconds apart mind you
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
until about mile 60...FRIGGIN GREAT. redline was set to 9k...i never went above 7200...thing was a damn beast
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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Discussion Starter #11
is there a way i can do a comp test cheaply just to be sure? or should i just risk it and try the battery? ive heard jdm d15b7 parts are hard to come buy...and i dont feel like spending 700 just for a head
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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Discussion Starter #13
sorry i put the 7 in there....the thought of this just being the neg terminal make me sooo excited. is there any specific thing i should do when testing it? also...what psi should i look for?
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
EDIT: i left out a KEY detail...the t belt is VERY loose...if i poke the front side coming OFF the cam pully...itll dip about an inch mabye a little more..and you can wiggle it. same with the back. i was told to check this...so i compared this to my b7 i had laying around with a bad oil pump...and that t belt was MUCH tighter.
 

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VTEC withdrawals
i "ride" yo momma
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1,339 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
so i replaced the ground. because that seems like a good point. went to jump it off and it would spin but it wouldnt crank up. ive got it at a shop waiting on a t belt. if this doesnt fix things....ill prob start by pulling the injectors to see if they spray. first ill pull the plugs and see if they are sparking....it would prob be smart to do that before i go and spray gas everywhere lol. anyone got any suggestions?
 

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to be 100% honest it sound as if your timing belt tentioner took a shit. check to see if the nut has backed out or came off...its the little hole on the backside halfway down your timing cover, i believe its a 12mm bolt.

i remember i did a headgasket on my car...got it all timed up for got to tighten the tentioner...fired up then spuddered then shut down....when i went to check the timing i noticed the belt was sloppy, moved it one tooth and it fired right up but hit a wall at 3-4k so i moved it one more tooth and it has been fine since.

i think you have to go 4 teeth to damage the valves, feel free to correct me if im wrong, it been a while..lol

and when you get a jdm swap whether its a d,b,h,k, ect you need to change out the timing belt, tentioner, waterpump, oil pump is a good idea as well as a new set of gaskets all around.


if that nut is loose, you may be fine....there should be some notches in you crank pully and arrows on your timing belt cover, line those up. you may notice your cam gear is not lined up, go ahead and pull up on the timing belt and turn the cam gear by the bolt(in a nice slow fluid movement not to tighten or loosen the cam bolt) till it lookes right. tighten the tentioner. fire it up. take it for a small test drive if all feels good then you should be good if it hits a wall at 3-4k stop. loosen the crank slide it one more tooth over. if it then drives great there you go. if it starts just cranking but wont fire go back 2 teeth. it should then drive good.....i hope its only a couple off and this fixes your problem.

if this doesnt work your timing may have had the best of you and pull that thing apart....and a 4ft pole over a 28" breaker bar with two freind holding the car with it in gear will usually get it free :) (need to remove the front bumper) enjoy

nija edit: if the nut is tight and the belt is still sloppy replace the tentioner
 

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until about mile 60...FRIGGIN GREAT. redline was set to 9k...i never went above 7200...thing was a damn beast
how was a vtec engine running in non vtec beast??? j/w that cam lobe prolly has 1/8inch of actual valve lift lol
 

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Im Bringing TSEXY Back!
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until about mile 60...FRIGGIN GREAT. redline was set to 9k...i never went above 7200...thing was a damn beast
How where you running that high with know vtec wired up?
ECU should automatically put you in'to limp mode?


I would do a compression test before you made another move on that engine or rip it apart and investigate?
 

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if you did bend valves its not a big deal and you dont need to find a d15b head the z6 head is exactly the same the cam is the differance and valves are easy to change. also what timing marks are you looking at cause i think the d15b may still use the 7oclock mark ir maybe the z1 marks. if you can take a pic of the cam gear position with the crank at tdc
 

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If the timing is really off an you plan on getting the timing redone anyways why not just take the head off and check the valves...takes like 30 minutes, while there you can inspect everything, get hew head gasket, timing belt and water pump. I mean why not if you really expect the timing is that far off start eliminating potential problems an make sure everything is ok.
 
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