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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello from Australia! My D16Y4 build is coming up on completion and booked in for a tune end of this month. I’m just wanting to know what power figures others think it will achieve? the build list below is one I created for the tuner, that’s why it lists some odds and ends…

Will be flex fuel tuned, mainly wanting opinions on E85 figures.

Before anyone mentions It, I can’t source any aftermarket cams for a Y4 motor here in Australia, Y4 being a non v-vtec head.

Power goal
  • Aiming for 350whp minimum, would love 400.
  • Redline @8k if safe to do so

Age / condition
  • All aftermarket gear is freshly done with 0km on it.
  • Motor has run previously on a crappy base tune, but all items marked with a “✅” have been done since I’ve acquired the car and haven’t been tested yet.

  • D16Y4
  • P2P0 custom length forged rods
  • 3/8” ARP 2000 rod bolts
  • YCP 75.5mm vitara pistons (.5mm oversize)
  • OEM sleeves (.5mm oversize)
  • 8.81:1 CR
  • Hastings rings
  • Stock crank balanced and polished (old/ original)
  • Bearings unknown
  • Block guard
  • ✅ OEM Honda head gasket (went from .060” to .030” thickness
  • ✅ ARP head studs
  • Supertech intake and exhaust valves .5mm oversize
  • Supertech valve guides and stem seals
  • Supertech valve retainers
  • Bisimoto valve springs
  • OEM camshaft (old/ original)
  • ✅ Skunk2 adjustable cam gear
  • Gates timing belt
  • Gates water pump
  • OEM oil pump (old/original)
  • ✅ Spark plugs NGK 5585 ZFR6J-11 (gapped to .8mm)
  • Block and head freshly skimmed

  • PLM top mount turbo manifold
  • 3” downpipe
  • ✅ 200 cell magnaflow HFC
  • ✅ Invidia G200 catback (3”)

  • Pulsar GTX3071R .63 (T3)
  • Pulsar 44mm external waste gate
  • Skunk2 70mm throttle body
  • OEM intake manifold ported
  • BOV (unknown brand, won’t be used)
  • Tube and fin intercooler
  • ✅ Pod filter 3” flange

  • Original gearbox (unsure what the model is)
  • Straight cut 2nd and 3rd gears (MTM Gears D series 1.261/.925 3/4 gear set. Straight cut, synchronous engagement.)
  • Mfactory diff bearings
  • Syncrotech carbon syncros
  • XTD stage 4 clutch (cheapy that came with car, only rated to 350hp, will eventually replace)
  • Mfactory helical LSD
  • ARP flywheel bolts
  • XTD lightweight flywheel
  • Spoon sports LSD ring gear bolt set

Fuel system
  • ✅ Walbro 525
  • ✅ Full system -6 hose
  • ✅ ID1300x injectors
  • ✅ AEM fuel rail
  • ✅ Turbosmart FPR1200
  • ✅ Radium fuel pump hangar
  • Epman 100 micron filter
  • ✅ Proflow fuel pressure gauge 0-100 psi
  • ✅ Syltech flex fuel sensor

  • Haltech 550 Elite
  • ✅ Haltech cam lambda
  • Water temp sensor - unknown brand
  • Air temp sensor - unknown brand
  • AEM engine position module
  • Coil on plug conversion (✅ NGK ignition coils U5051)
  • Boost solenoid to be supplied and fitted by proximity

  • Charging issue as mentioned. Replacement alternator is on order and will be fitted prior. Will require testing as old alternator is charging @17 volts.
  • FPR hasn’t been set
  • Coolant will need bleeding (coolant supplied)
  • Engine oil - Penrite 15W40 running in oil (level will need checking after first run)
  • Adjustable cam gear set to 0° (use “D16Y8” degree markers, NOT the “D16Z6” ones)
  • BOV won’t be used, if possible adjust to closed position
  • HG was originally .060” thick, however I have since changed this to an OEM Honda HG which I believe is .030” thick. If possible check piston valve clearance (with camera?)

13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
He has long rods in it, so it should take 325, theoretically...
So confused. I’ve done heaps of research and people with very similar builds (albeit with an added aftermarket cam) seem to get high 300’s low 400’s no problems… and almost everyone here is giving it a lower number and saying it’ll blow. Surely there’s something I’m missing

13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Why? Do you like replacing turbos? You'll need at least, or over 20psi with that turbo to hit your 350whp goal since stock cam.

20psi+ with no BOV? Compressor surge is going to destroy the thrust bearing in the CHRA after not a long time.
I’ve been told that it’s just a myth as the compressor wheel is spinning so fast. Got a few mates who block their BOV’s off with zero issues yet. However I will look into it and may use the BOV, thanks for pointing it out. (This is my first turbo car ever, so I’m still new with it all)

Also my turbo has anti-surge. I know it’s not meant to replace the BOV, just thought it was worth mentioning :)

13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Like any build, keep it low boost and shoot for around 300whp. hen drive it like that for a while and iron out any and all bugs. The Haltech will help quite a lot, it is a good setup.

When you have some confidence in the car, its been running great, and it is not blowing out spark plugs left and right, take it in for a retune for some more jam jam.

High power FWD cars are a pain to deal with. Ease into it. It helps you build your car around the power. Knock out torque steer issues, take care of brakes, struts, bushings, etc.. as you run into walls.
Thanks mate, best reply I’ve had so far! I’ve already told the tuning shop that i’m lowing the power goal to 320-350whp. I think that’s way more reasonable. If it only makes 300ish I’ll still be more than happy 😄
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