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what plugs and oil

1915 Views 40 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Sohc Wrath
my motor should be back next week and im going to be starting to assemble my turbo kit get the tuning done and eventually be rippin balls just wanted to know a good setup of oil and plugs to run for the car its fuly built y8 zex comp cam srp pistons eagle rods blah blah blah

THANKS
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ngk bcpr7es and mobile one 10w-30.
If the motor is new I don't recommend running synthetic. 10w30 Castrol or your preferred brand is good and number 8 or 9 ngk gapped to about 25 thou. Spark plug gap also depends on how much boost you are running. My buddy has a 2.0 turbo with about 45 psi. Made 710 whp. He runs Castrol 10w30 and NGK 9 gapped to 18 thou!
I run castrol 5-30. ngk racing 8s gapped at .22
If the motor is new I don't recommend running synthetic.
whys that.....explain please:noway:
Talk to any engine builder why you should not break in a motor on synthetic. I don't know the reason why I just listen well to others that know more than me!
Talk to any engine builder why you should not break in a motor on synthetic. I don't know the reason why I just listen well to others that know more than me!
I was told the stuff is too slippery and wont let the rings break-in properly. But that was nearly 20 years ago.
When you buy a Viper or a Z06 the motors are broken in before you get it! Companies wouldn't let an engine of that caliber off the line and into your hands without putting it through the paces yet!
Well whatever.. Obviously it doesn't matter.. If you are going to use synthetic at least buy Motul or Amsoil. And a Honda filter should be the only thing that you put on the motor. S2000 filter will work too if you want to pay the 25 bucks.

I built my motor 35,000kms ago. It is an Allmotor A6 with 11.5/1 comp. I have ran nothing but Castrol GTX 10w30. Ran about 65 passes at the track this year. Drive it to work in minus 35 degrees Celcius temperatures without the aid of a block heater and haven't had a single problem yet!
whys that.....explain please:noway:
synthetic oil will not let your motor break in properly... you should wait till your second or so oil change before switch over to full synthetic...

i cant think of the tearm as to how regular oil helps with the break in period but hopfully someone else will fill in the gap here...
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When you buy a Viper or a Z06 the motors are broken in before you get it! Companies wouldn't let an engine of that caliber off the line and into your hands without putting it through the paces yet!

not true sir same goes for new hondas chevys any ne car (i was a lot detail tech at hirlinger chevy for 2 years in harrison ohio) they come with ZERO to 5 miles all the boss told us to do was beat the hell out of the brand new ones when they came in....yea they are "broken in" to a point i guess meaning the lots techs beat the crap outta them
When you buy a Viper or a Z06 the motors are broken in before you get it! Companies wouldn't let an engine of that caliber off the line and into your hands without putting it through the paces yet!
yeah they would my boss has a z06 and personally watched it come off the asembly line
just run regular oil for the first few oil changes. 5w30

when you get your new motor back, part of breaking it in is changing the oil a few times in the first few hundred miles. do you really want to spend 25+ bucks each time you change oil when breaking it in?
I Used SEA30ND for break in (50 miles)
Then 10/40 Pennzoil (Cold weather) or 20/50 pennzoil (hot weather)

Now that the engine has 4000miles, i'm going to change to 15-50 mobil 1.
I was told to run thicker oil by NRG-Tech who did my 1st tune because my motor is boosted and high comp...
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