i have a 88 ef hatch with a d16y8 in it that im planning to turbo. i already have a parts list of everything i need to make the power i just need to know what i need to handle it. ive seen people say to get a gsr tranny but that would require some extra work to get it to fit but can handle a lot of power. ive also seen people say to rebuild a d series or si tranny. i also need input on axles and motor mounts. im assuming billet aluminum would be a good way to go. any input helps, thanks.
what is needed to handle 400whp?
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What are your goals? Budget?
400whp in a D is gonna cost a lot. Even though I'm tuned at 370whp, I dont actually run that. It took me 4 years to make 320-340whp relatively reliable, and I'm still going B series for the track lol.
Its not just engine/trans you have to think about, the chassis, suspension and brakes need love too. To do it properly where it has the best chance of success will take at least 8-10k, and thats you doing 98% of the labor yourself, assuming you have all necessary tools and equipment for metalworking and fabrication.
Double-almost tripple those numbers if you arent doing the work yourself.
No need for GSR trans, D trans can take it as long as driving style isnt dumb agressive and the trans has been completely refreshed.
400whp in a D is gonna cost a lot. Even though I'm tuned at 370whp, I dont actually run that. It took me 4 years to make 320-340whp relatively reliable, and I'm still going B series for the track lol.
Its not just engine/trans you have to think about, the chassis, suspension and brakes need love too. To do it properly where it has the best chance of success will take at least 8-10k, and thats you doing 98% of the labor yourself, assuming you have all necessary tools and equipment for metalworking and fabrication.
Double-almost tripple those numbers if you arent doing the work yourself.
No need for GSR trans, D trans can take it as long as driving style isnt dumb agressive and the trans has been completely refreshed.
I’m working for my dad over the summer and I should be getting around 7k. I have friends that can weld and I’m comfortable with doing the work. I already have aftermarket suspension and planning on getting better brakes. And the d series trans sounds like a good way to go. And you saying you have yours tune to 320 does want me to shoot for that instead of 400 because I still want it to be reliable and fast
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89 Posts
Wait. I think some things are missing here?
He's debating putting a gsr transmission on a d16? But there's been no mention of an adapter plate.
Also, why is there a d16y8 in there?
To OP:
Did you put the d16y8 in there? Did you swap to obd1 and get vtec to work? Or did you buy it that way, and someone put that in as replacement to a blown d16a6?
Knowing this will get you better results on the tuning aspect.
I think that slo_eg8's question is super valid "with what parts?"
Knowing what you are planning to do, and sharing that list, will give people here a better idea if you actually know what you are getting yourself into.
They can also tell you if the parts you "need to make power" are actually needed, or even good.
He's debating putting a gsr transmission on a d16? But there's been no mention of an adapter plate.
Also, why is there a d16y8 in there?
To OP:
Did you put the d16y8 in there? Did you swap to obd1 and get vtec to work? Or did you buy it that way, and someone put that in as replacement to a blown d16a6?
Knowing this will get you better results on the tuning aspect.
I think that slo_eg8's question is super valid "with what parts?"
Knowing what you are planning to do, and sharing that list, will give people here a better idea if you actually know what you are getting yourself into.
They can also tell you if the parts you "need to make power" are actually needed, or even good.
i swapped the d16y8 after i bought the car and vtec works and i have a chipped ecu. and thanks on the input for adding a parts list. im going with a vitara build.
speed factory no notch rods
YCP vitara pistons
arp headstuds
ported d16y8 oil pump
brian crower valve springs and retainers
brian crower stage 2 turbo cam
clevite race HN rod bearing
supertech blockguard
skunk2 pro cam gear
and an ebay turbo kit. ill probably ditch the ebay turbo and get a garret
speed factory no notch rods
YCP vitara pistons
arp headstuds
ported d16y8 oil pump
brian crower valve springs and retainers
brian crower stage 2 turbo cam
clevite race HN rod bearing
supertech blockguard
skunk2 pro cam gear
and an ebay turbo kit. ill probably ditch the ebay turbo and get a garret
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13,222 Posts
cheap.
fast.
reliable.
pick 2.
GO-AUTOWORKS Civic CRX Integra Complete Turbo Kits D16 B16 B18 H22
CP Pistons
fast.
reliable.
pick 2.
GO-AUTOWORKS Civic CRX Integra Complete Turbo Kits D16 B16 B18 H22
CP Pistons
Keep the "eBay" turbo, and use that Garrett money to invest in a Quality Wastegate, Manifold, and B.O.V.
Quality; also read as Tial/Turbosmart/etc.. Wastegate and B.O.V., and something from Go-Autoworks for a manifold.
Beat me to it.
You'll likely want to look in to CSS, block guards typically cause more issues than they try to solve.
What about a tuning solution? Fuel system? We can give pointers here as well
sorry i forgot to add those things. there is a tuner near me that specializes in hondas and even has some drag civics, so i have the tuning covered. ill be using a walbro 255 fuel pump and some 650cc injectors.
edit: just read a thread that Injector Nation 1000cc injectors are proven for reliability and power
edit: just read a thread that Injector Nation 1000cc injectors are proven for reliability and power
Every injector manufacturer claims this lol, its marketing fluff.
Choose injectors from any reputable brand (I personally like FIC), based on your preferred fuel type, and your power goals:
You said you wanted to play in the sub-400whp range, then on pump gas to safely play in that power range you'll need 1000cc's:
On E85 you'll need 1200cc's
The tuner will tune the car, but he wont necessarily provide/install needed tuning hardware.
I know you said you have a chipped ECU, have you made sure your tuner has external emulator and chip burning capabilities?
I only ask, since most tuners have begun to rely on OEM ECUs with RTP EEPROM emulators (i.e. Hondata or the Demon series, etc.), or full standalone setups. Its kinda rare to find OG honda tuners that still have their chip burning/external emulation hardware now a days.
If your tuner cant do this, you'll need to find a solution to provide him the ability to tune your car, and/or ask for his recommendation on what he tunes Honda's with, so you can go ahead and get that ready for him.
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48 Posts
Deep pockets for 400 hp ! I could have easily done a K swap after adding everything up. At one point I was up to $5500 then stopped counting. Had no idea all the small stuff added so much to the total cost. There's a guy named Kenny in FL (dserious on YouTube) that's making 500 on a D15 I think it's at like 40+ lbs. Keeping the head on the block at over 20 lbs seems to be an issue but you can use bigger studs. I didn't mess with shimming or porting my oil pump just used a new Melling pump and oil pressure is almost 100 psi at cold startup and about 45-50 fully warm cruising in 5th at 3000 rpm. I think the key to avoiding oil starvation on the Y series is not to rev the piss out of them,my limiter is set at 7200 and I've had zero oiling problems for 25k. Don't skimp on the clutch. It may be tempting to get a $150 "stage 4" or whatever from Ebay but you'll be pulling it right back out if your making any kind of decent power. Stock axles are fine and I wouldn't waste my money on a big throttle body or fuel rail unless you just want the bling. The tune is what is going to make or break it.
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