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Shackle me NOT!!!
1995 Honda Ballade
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4,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well.......The girlfriend was moaning about the noise when VTEC kicked in and that the intake was sometimes louder than the exhaust. So one day after driving around with the CAI for a few months I decide to put back the old factory filter and put a replacement drop in K&N filter in.

The car drove like SHIT, NO NO NO throttle response and the car felt constantly bogged down and lazy, on the highway it was struggling to get anywhere, and to top it off the car used about 1/4 more fuel than what it used to. To further add salt to the wound........it wasn't much quieter and the drop in flat panel cost twice as much as the cone style filter.

So if any of you were wondering about swapping over..........DO IT.
 

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Shackle me NOT!!!
1995 Honda Ballade
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4,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
civic4ges said:
Interesting...

Stock airbox w/k&n filter, 3: mandrel bend tube between airbox and TB, plus 60MM TB owns my AEM CAI. Im not big on the whole noisy intake thing.
hmmmmm, I had the same type of set up at one stage and it just seems that the stock box doesn't get enough airflow. My CAI doens't go all the way down, but slots in behind the front light. I'm planning on a heat shield or better yet, a Carbon Kevlar Box for it.....if my mate's in the mood.

You have a pic of your set up @ civic4ages?? also, do you have any type of ducting going to the base of your airbox???

Times and tastes change, it seems like it was only yesterday when people were going ape-shit over the swollen red penis intakes....I'm wondering when Rota slips will slip from favoue so I can buy myself a set........lmao
 

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Cool User Title Here
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6,900 Posts
My setup is like this (my apologies, 2-1/2" I.D. intake pipe, not 3"):




I cut the tube at the bottom before it bends to go vertical to keep from ducting air from the engine bay.

I also tried the Fake J's racing intake (whale penis). It was noisy as hell!!!

Im actually thinking of making a smooth transitioning duct to go from under the car (bumper) to the bottom of the airbox. Not sure if its worth it though.
 

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Shackle me NOT!!!
1995 Honda Ballade
Joined
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4,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
aaaaaaaaaah, I've been wondering who's engine bay that was that I saw a pic of a while ago........some nice parts in there and just enough bling, nothing overdone.

I've been thinking about giving the stock box a try again with a type of ducting coming from a high pressure point in the bumper or maybe something below the bumper. That type if ducting does work i'm told, but you have to put it at a high pressure position on your bumper otherwise turbulance and what not mucks around......I think vented into the bottom of a stock airbox could swing a lot of people.

Saw this a while ago.......looks good......also doens't stand out too much.

I here a possible DIY section coming on.......
 

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Cool User Title Here
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6,900 Posts
turboprelude95 said:
^^^^^^^that valve cover got a nice color to it and i like that performer x intake manifold. :smile:
Thanks, the Edebrock is actually overkill without any intake portwork done, but it will be fine for the future. It also makes any aftermarket intake ducting useless because of the angle its at. I tihnk im going to work on a new intake tube that will taper from 3" to 2-1/2" at the throttle body. Then do a little work inside the airbox to smooth the path the air travels.

Asfar asbelow bumper ducting, my bumper has no cutouts that will allow me to duct from. So its either from under the bumper where the lower grille is, or from directly under the car. IDK what way to go yet.
 
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oi old mate i find my air box with k&n pannel filter to have alot more tourque and over all power gain...... when u use a pod filter i get bad fuel ecnom and it bogs down but i must admit the pod gives better high end but since i made a few mods to the air box to increase flow and put a cai from the front bar its going around the same as a pod filter.....
 
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In investigating this issue, I have found that the volume of the stock air box is too small while the box itself is too wide. If one might take the comptech box as an example, notice how much taller and longer it is and how much narrower. The reason these things are important is that air that passes the filter begins to move at higher speed and creates a low pressure area behind it. in a wide box the effect is distributed over a larger area in terms of the relationship of filter to intake hose/tube. My current set up is within a few hp of an AEM cai but it is quite loud and maybe even louder than it would be with the cai. I am currently looking at snaging and adapting the airbox from an accord v6 or a lude that meets the above requirements.
Flatfour fan, did you remove all the junk under the stock airbox? Did you reset the ecu after the change? I know it sounds odd but results have been observed were someone installs a CAI, resets the computer, runs with it for a day or so, takes it off and reinstalls the airbox - all the resonator junk and dyno out within the error range of the dyno in both hp and torque. Granted, the one I am familiar with was an S2k but this is why I am still experimenting rather than just slaping on a CAI and calling it good.
 

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'91 CRX Si
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i like where this thread is going, so i thought id add my 2cents
i am currently using an integra airbox and pipe w/ comptech filter. this is already an improvement over my old AEM s.r. I am going to adapt an 92-95 iceman intake tube to fit. Heatsoak is already gone, and can only improve with the addition of the icemans plastic intake tube.
 
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how much bigger is the teg box; how much longer? is it narrower? I have heat soak beat but now I want about a 30% increase in the space above the filter with a similar decrease in width.
 

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'91 CRX Si
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kommon_sense said:
teg box is 8" long, 5.75" wide, and the rear is 7.5" deep while the front is about 6.5" deep. The stock teg round style filter pretty much fills up the box. Injen offers filters with built in velocity stacks. I've got a teg box here that I'm planning to adapt onto my civic.
yes it is much narrower in width than the stock box, as well as longer and deeper.
 

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Shackle me NOT!!!
1995 Honda Ballade
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4,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
DseriesScience said:
Flatfour fan, did you remove all the junk under the stock airbox? Did you reset the ecu after the change? I know it sounds odd but results have been observed were someone installs a CAI, resets the computer, runs with it for a day or so, takes it off and reinstalls the airbox - all the resonator junk and dyno out within the error range of the dyno in both hp and torque. Granted, the one I am familiar with was an S2k but this is why I am still experimenting rather than just slaping on a CAI and calling it good.
Nope, Mine was originally a twin carb JDM import model with a carb pipe venting off to the side. When I changed my car to fuel injection, I just cut the hole open below so that a stock airbox could vent from there. As for resetting the ECU, after I had the fuel injection put on, the car was mapped again. (standalone EFI from Mr Turbo) I did try the stock box again, but it still feels bogged down compared to the cone filter and intake pipe. What I am contimplating doing is just boxing off the cone filter and seeing what that does for me.

I like the teg box........I think that if I took the top section of the airfilter box and basically made a replacement bottom section from glass fibre or carbon fibre, I think that it would go a bit better. As fuel consumption goes, did you gain anything from going with the teg box???
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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3,364 Posts
I have the AEM CAI and I like the sound. Butt dyno tells me the car has better response and a bit more power than the stock airbox. The tone is very tolerable as well since the filter opening is down in the fenderwell now behind the liner. When it does let loose tho, the filter pointing at the ground inside the bumper has a nice deep tone to it. With the Espelir growling in unison out back, it's a symponhy I've grown to love and look forward to.

I dont have any scientific proof or data to back up my preference for the AEM other than it allows cooler air to come into the IM via the front of the car. I'm planning to fabricate some kind of direct air inlet port that utilizes the entire factory foglight hole opening almost like aram-air to the filterhead.

I just like how the car performs with it and the sound isn't as bad as one would expect unless im really getting on it. My D15B7 isn't blessed with VTEC :eek: so my sound at WOT from launch to rev limit is your normal steady volume progression, not a bwahhhhhhhhhhhhWAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH event :p

Maybe someday soon it will be tho ;)
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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civic90ex said:
reset your ecu
I have had the battery out/disconnected for a length of time many times and just today it was completely disconnected for about an hour while I installed my new PIAA wiring harness. I didn't pull the fuse from the engine compartment fusebox because I figured with no battery it would be the same.

someone feel free to correct me if there is a proper way to reset the ECU because i am under the assumption it has been many times now. not to sound like a noob here but what procedure do you all do when resetting your ECU so it properly re-adjusts itself to a new mod(s)?
 

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hey i got a JDM EG6 SIR box and intake on my eg5 d16.

i modified it abit, plugged up some noise suppressors etc, K+N drop in.


kicks arse man!! no induction noise in cabin but outside my freinds say its crazy,
way better performance IMO and my temp gauge reads lower, not shit and
i HAVE tried like 5 different pod setups both with head sheilds and without.

my vote for modded stock box an K+N.:)
 
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Steve-O said:
I have had the battery out/disconnected for a length of time many times and just today it was completely disconnected for about an hour while I installed my new PIAA wiring harness. I didn't pull the fuse from the engine compartment fusebox because I figured with no battery it would be the same.

someone feel free to correct me if there is a proper way to reset the ECU because i am under the assumption it has been many times now. not to sound like a noob here but what procedure do you all do when resetting your ECU so it properly re-adjusts itself to a new mod(s)?
When the battery is disconected, you need to pull 2 fuses: In my EG they are labeled ECU main and ECU fault memory. In my friends old lude, the first one is labeled computer and the second one is -get ready- CLOCK!!!
anyway, two fuses always.
 
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