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civic
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently traded my ef for an eg, I thought it came with a mini me but coudn't tell due to the gunk on the engine. It's a d15z1 engine, I dont know how to go about upping the cr ratio without going for d17 gx pistons. I've tried the zeal calculator and mis matching different combos, but I keep getting whacky comp numbers like 6:5:1 or example. If anyone has a combo idea let me know thanks!
 

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OMG TOTALLY COOL TITLE!!!!
88 y49 crx
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For the cost of swapping internals you could fund and run a different stock engine. What is the reason behind keeping the horrid z1?
 

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92 cx
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Pull your cylinder head off. Take it to a machine shop that is well known to work on engines. Get it resurfaced or go crazy and take 0.030" off it and might as well get a valve job, new guides, stem seals, and hot tanked... $500+ later and an oem 2 layer d16y8 head gasket...that'll bump it up big time. (10.14:1 compression) <---zealworks comp calc
 

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civic
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Discussion Starter #6
reason behind keeping it is because its already in there and I have swapped pistons and rods with the engine in the car in my previous b7 by removing head and oil pan
 

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civic
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Discussion Starter #7
Pull your cylinder head off. Take it to a machine shop that is well known to work on engines. Get it resurfaced or go crazy and take 0.030" off it and might as well get a valve job, new guides, stem seals, and hot tanked... $500+ later and an oem 2 layer d16y8 head gasket...that'll bump it up big time. (10.14:1 compression) <---zealworks comp calc
this is probably what i might do but i really wanted to use a z6 head instaed
 

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civic
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Discussion Starter #9
Yessir, I think I finally got it. d15z1 block, d16z6 head 0.030 off the head, d17a2 slugs, and a 2 layer y8 gasket bringing me to 9:5:1 while retaining the 1.62 r/s ratio, does that sound do-able??
 

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why are you dicking around for minimal to no result?

the d15z1 is a terrible engine for performance. Its purpose is to save gas.


if you want to know if X piston fits Y engine, you also need to look at the dimensions of the piston. what is the compression height? what is the wrist pin diameter? is it floating? is it pressed in?


All the money you are looking to dump into the d15z1 would disappoint you with the results.

Even if you got the compression to 13:1 and did not have any detonation, it would still be outrun by a stock d16z6 pissing oil from bad piston rings.



Do it once, do it properly. Grab a better engine foundation.

d16y7 engines are a dime a dozen, and with a d16y8 cylinder head, and d16z6 intake manifold, you are looking at over 10:1 compression WITHOUT slicing head or block, and 40 extra horsepower over what you currently have
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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reason behind keeping it is because its already in there and I have swapped pistons and rods with the engine in the car in my previous b7 by removing head and oil pan
So we have no freaking clue WTF combo you have...
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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I know you don't want to remove the engine and just leave the stock block in there because "it's easier" but it is not hard to drop a honda motor from these cars and get a proper set up the first time.
 

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exactly. It gives you a chance to really go over the motor if you really are set on using it.

But considering how any of the 1.6 vtec/non-vtec motors will be a guaranteed improvement, I really do think its worth yanking.

Or even better, leave the Z1 in there, save some gas while you grab a 1.6 and even do a 1.7 stroker build.

sql_civic? I believe is the user name to search for when considering the 1.7 stroker. he actually made a 1.8liter d series supercharged, and it looked like it was a ton of fun.
 

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civic
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Discussion Starter #15
The engine I have is a just a d15z1, thats it. I also know its a POS engine, it got out ran by a stock auto cb7 with ease, but I'd also like to give it a chance. Everyone told me to throw out my old d15b2 in my ef, but I gave it a chance and went the "beast7" setup and it was head to head with b18b swapped civics.
 

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civic
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Discussion Starter #16
exactly. It gives you a chance to really go over the motor if you really are set on using it.

But considering how any of the 1.6 vtec/non-vtec motors will be a guaranteed improvement, I really do think its worth yanking.

Or even better, leave the Z1 in there, save some gas while you grab a 1.6 and even do a 1.7 stroker build.

sql_civic? I believe is the user name to search for when considering the 1.7 stroker. he actually made a 1.8liter d series supercharged, and it looked like it was a ton of fun.
............hold up, 1.7 stroker you say?? hmmmm I'm going to look into this.
 

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Its the difference of an engine born for day to day driving, and an engine born to save as much gas as possible while staying within regulation and design budget.

Honestly, the d15z1 would benefit greatly from a small non-intercooled turbo, a few small tricks to reduce risk of detonation, and you could probably gain significant fuel efficiency.

make it a project to have a car that is somewhat fun to drive, yet passes gas station after gas station.

Else, find a way to drop a lot of weight. Any and all cars will benefit from weight reduction.


If all your wanting is to successfully increase compression and keep what you have, then send the head in to get sliced, buy an adjustable cam gear, and go ahead and have all the valve guides checked out/replaced, and throw in all new seals, as that is the most common thing to go bad on the D series cylinder heads.

if your d15z1 is california spec and uses a 4 wire O2 sensor, you can even drop in a chipped ecu and tune it a little for better results.

But you wont see much feedback without a large compression increase, and a large compression increase usually requires tuning to maintain reliability. At that point, you must ask yourself if its worth the cost of several hundred dollars just to keep it healthy.
 

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............hold up, 1.7 stroker you say?? hmmmm I'm going to look into this.
all it requires is any 1.6liter block, 1.7 crank, rods, pistons, and either one of the specific B series crank pulleys, or possibly an older oPBD0 crank pulley. 24mm snout I believe.

there are several references and sorta-guides on here over the years.
 

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it is a nice OEM stroker that runs okay on stock un-tuned ecu's and gives a good thump in the midrange and topend

The cool thing about factory stroker is there are no custom parts that can be off measurement, or what I call "friday builds"
 
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