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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, i just installed my water and oil gauge.

i just want to know what is the normal when the engine is warn up.

right now the oil would get about 190 and stay around there

the water would stay around 160 to 170 and when i woT it drops down to 150 to 140 ( i have a 170 )

some people say it should be 195

but when i looked up at an auto part it said 170 is stock

so i don't know.....

any help would be great
 

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Discussion Starter #3
whats the point of an oil temp gauge unless you have a high dollar high hp build
that's like saying what's the point of having back seat if your never going to use it..

another one, it's like saying why have an exhaust when your running turbo making 700hp, why have an exhaust? WHAT'S THE POINT???

BY THE WAY.. WHAT'S THE POINT OF DRIVING AND FF CAR IN THE 1/4 MILE

WHAT IS THE POINT

I CAN KEEP ON GOING ON WHAT'S THE POINT IF YOU WANT

TWO CAN PLAY THE SAME GAME...
 

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95 hatch
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He must not be too much of an idiot if he's asking people for help. He could be stupid and see the temp at 240* and be like "oh, well since its higher, it's better".

And lol, i dunno the normal operating temp, i haven't used my datalogger in a few months so i forget what the temp was at.

Those 2 gauges actually have a good use. You get to monitor a major part of your engine and can catch a problem before it gets worse.

But yea man, the same goes for me. I dont drive with my gf in the car so i took out my passenger seat =P
 

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1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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Having extra temp gauges are not idiotic if you're interested in knowing the operating parameters of your motor no matter what you've done to it.

My normal operating temp depends on the weather and the kind of driving I'm doing. I don't have a high HP build but I added water and oil temp gauges. The water temp gauge was useful this summer when a CEL went on in stop and go traffic. I saw my temps close to 240. After swapping out the OEM radiator for a Koyorad, Flex-A-Lite fan, and a 160 degree t-stat my temps generally hang at 190 degrees. So thanks to my gauge I can tell how effective this mod was and get a better idea on how hot my motor is running as opposed to the Hi-Lo indication of the OEM cluster temp gauge.

In the warmer weather oil temps would be around the same as water temps. However now it's running a few degrees cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i know the oe is way off. makes you wonder all this time if your car was ever running right.

my oil is around 190 to 200, then again it's cold here in mn so i guess that's normal.

as for the water temp, on the paper it said 195, but like i said.. can't find a 195 anywhere from the auto parts. so i don't know if honda changed it for whatever reason.

the d15b runs 180 and the d16 runs 170?

today i replaced with a 180 and guess what, it runs even colder like 140ish..

so i don't know what the deal is. the needle is sitting at normal like it always does.
but i can't stand seeing 140 to 150 temp..

looks like nobody here really know whats normal....
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
why buy and hook up a gauge and not even know what you looking for? your clearly an idiot so im done
REALLY.... your talking to a guy who owns and builted two 12seconds honda.. back in 2005 for your information way before anyone

even knew what a single cam could do

so.. if i was you.. i wouldn't try to start something i couldn't finish..

Your @ss just got owned..
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,239 Posts
i know the oe is way off. makes you wonder all this time if your car was ever running right.

my oil is around 190 to 200, then again it's cold here in mn so i guess that's normal.

as for the water temp, on the paper it said 195, but like i said.. can't find a 195 anywhere from the auto parts. so i don't know if honda changed it for whatever reason.

the d15b runs 180 and the d16 runs 170?

today i replaced with a 180 and guess what, it runs even colder like 140ish..

so i don't know what the deal is. the needle is sitting at normal like it always does.
but i can't stand seeing 140 to 150 temp..

looks like nobody here really know whats normal....
I know exactly what is normal, I have many posts explaining it. Even going as far to explain the dead spot in the OEM gauge, same dead spot that is in the fuel gauge.

I've even mention what water temp is needed for the ECU to see at the ECT sensor to get out of cold start loop.
 

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REALLY.... your talking to a guy who owns and builted two 12seconds honda.. back in 2005 for your information way before anyone

even knew what a single cam could do

so.. if i was you.. i wouldn't try to start something i couldn't finish..

Your @ss just got owned..
you an idiot people have been turboing hondas since early 90s its nothing new to make a fast single cam. and i doubt you built a 12 sec honda but yet do not have a capability to search
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
you an idiot people have been turboing hondas since early 90s its nothing new to make a fast single cam. and i doubt you built a 12 sec honda but yet do not have a capability to search
i did, that's why i came here..
again, you guys don't know..
and yet still don't know...
yet talk as if you do
yet i see no number yet
LIKE I SAID, THE PAPER SAID 195 ON THE MANUAL.
yet i come in here looking advice and what do i get,
go search and go search its been cover over and over..
yet none of you know...
so i guess yall need to do the searching as well

because i did do the search, and haff yall keep giving me a difference answer.

140, 170 190, 180, 150

with all kinds of theory.....

so go on and talk ShTTT

i got all day and will sit here and B.S with you..

( you guys are becoming more like turbod16.com.... )

white @ss hole

you call yourself d-series... ?


so disappointed
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
you an idiot people have been turboing hondas since early 90s its nothing new to make a fast single cam. and i doubt you built a 12 sec honda but yet do not have a capability to search

when did you figure that out.. after i ran 12seconds and posted up my video..
back in 05-06...

yes and your mom been fuking since shes 12...

your point?


YOU DIDN'T SAY.. THIS IS BACK IN 05-06 SEASON YEAR..

12 SECONDS, BACK IN THE DAYS

http://www.youtube.com/user/TurboD16z6#p/u/30/j92gXz4qRvk
 

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first of all dick hole i do not speak for d-series.org i speak for me so dont talk shit about everyone because what i said. second you never mentioned what motor your trying to find specs on. third everything your talking about depends alot on weather. so search and be more specific and you might get a real fucking answer
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Water temps should stabilize around the fully open temp of your T-stat. (Usually).

However, where did you place the sensors? That has a very large effect on the temperature reading. Look at where the stock sensors are located (at least for coolant) and then look at where you put your sensor. Think about the flow of coolant and how that would affect what your temp sensor is actually reading.

What temps your ECU is getting from the coolant sensor is pretty important to power, fuel economy, and reliability. I've come across sensors that were 40 degrees off without popping a CEL, and once the sensor was replaced, it made a large difference in drivability and milage.

I won't comment on the oil temps until you let us know where you put the sensor.

To the retards cluttering up ts thread with Ego, GTFO. Let the man learn something.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Water temps should stabilize around the fully open temp of your T-stat. (Usually).

However, where did you place the sensors? That has a very large effect on the temperature reading. Look at where the stock sensors are located (at least for coolant) and then look at where you put your sensor. Think about the flow of coolant and how that would affect what your temp sensor is actually reading.

What temps your ECU is getting from the coolant sensor is pretty important to power, fuel economy, and reliability. I've come across sensors that were 40 degrees off without popping a CEL, and once the sensor was replaced, it made a large difference in drivability and milage.

I won't comment on the oil temps until you let us know where you put the sensor.

To the retards cluttering up ts thread with Ego, GTFO. Let the man learn something.

it's about time someone in here actually help other people.
1. i'm not trying to score an A on here
2. if you spend so much time reading my crappy typo then you really have nothing else to do.
3. THE SALTY HATER ATTITUDE COMES AFTER YOU, SO BEST CHECK YOURSELF FIRST. ( it's stupid how some people love to test out newbie like it's a game
to see if their worthy enough) All i know, don't start nothing, won't be nothing
4. AND LAST if i don't last long here i really don't give a sht, last time i checked i ran 12seconds twice without you or anybody else.
5. entertain me....


back to the topic

well as far as the coolant sensor, i tapped in my existing one ( like i did last time long ago ), as far as the oil temp, it's right on my oil sandwich.

well today i swapped out my new stats for a new stats which i had to look under an 1.5L 1988 under alernated temperature.

i found a 192 and this one actually works ( don't buy autozone stats )

took awhile to get up to normal temp, ( 10-15 minutes driving )

oil temp is around 210 o 220 which i guess is normal
and water temp is around 180 to 190 give or take if your at a stop
i notice that by turning on the heater, it cools it down by 10 degree
within a period of time. NICE...

so i guess the last 3 stats was crap....

my stock 192, 170 and 180 all crapped out on me...
 
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