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Discussion Starter #1
currently running 1 bar with stock internals . giving me 230hp at the crank . Want to get eagle rods and srp pistons then maybe start boosting 1.5 or 1.7 high boost . hoping to get maybe 350 - 400 bhp . anything else besides these i need ? already got a block guard
 

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Then 1.5-1.7 bars = 21.75 psi - 24.65 psi........ummm
Beside engine work....its might be good to have a good plan for transferring the power to ground.
Look like axle, clutch that might need to be on your checking list.
 

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Like said above man you might want to port you head out too flow better if you are wanting too make that much power.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hi . im using NA stage 2 crower cam . head and intake manifold polished and ported with 3 angle valve etc . using enlarged TB from EG6 ( and bored some more ) . for engine management im using e-manage . axle i was looking at gator axles but shipping is gonne be super high man . clutch im using exedy . when the power comes .. then i'll uprate it :) .
 
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ok lets start fresh.
sleeved block
recommended 77mm -78mm bore (stock is 75mm)
lots of head work. (endyn is the best in my opinion)
crower rods at least
good properly preped pistons
good sized turbo (gt280gt30 for bb or sc50 for non-bb is recommended with a .48 exhaust housing I have found on a d that the .63 seems to cause higher rpm spooling and the .48 will allow for better spooling at lower rpm,s about 1500rpm lower than the .63 usually)

.5mm larger valves
good intake mani
good exhaust mani not some chepo log.
3" exhaust TURBO back..
good clutch
LSD
suspension to support the power and get it to the ground and not to mention you need it to help handle the car it's nothing like you will haev ever drive before.

Breaking also needs to be up to snuff to stop you so slotted rotors dot5 brake fluid form auto store (silicone ) and good pads (greenstuff is good stuff)

good tires ad no bigger than 16" wheels.

LOTS of $$ and luck... and a aweosme tuner.
I'm running neptune but hondata and some others are good. you want osmething that a pro tuner can do and will do. the free stuff is ok, but most pro tuners won't touch it and you want it professionally tuned on a dyno.

figure on spending about 8g minium if you want it to last for everthing and that's getting good deals on stuff. my project cost me 16-17g but it will last a long time as long as I take care of it and it's done right.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
how do i get larger valves and this 2-3mm more bore . Will be using a T28 Turbo off a s15 . LSD is on the way . using koni yellows suspensions , 15 inch OZ superlegerra block guarded block but no sleeving . where do i get these sleeves and how do i install them ? any issues ? heard will cause overheating problems .

P.S 3 inch exhaust what is turbo back ? u mean cat back ? im using 2.25 inch now . isnt 3 inch a little too big .. ??
 

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BlackMoon said:
how do i get larger valves and this 2-3mm more bore . Will be using a T28 Turbo off a s15 . LSD is on the way . using koni yellows suspensions , 15 inch OZ superlegerra block guarded block but no sleeving . where do i get these sleeves and how do i install them ? any issues ? heard will cause overheating problems .

P.S 3 inch exhaust what is turbo back ? u mean cat back ? im using 2.25 inch now . isnt 3 inch a little too big .. ??
i can't answer all these but I'll try. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong.

Oversized valves - you'll have to have the head professionally machined to accept larger valves. This needs to be precisely done...

2-3mm bore - bring the block to a machine shop and they'll just bore out your cylinders a little larger.

Sleeves get banged in the cylinders after the bore - a machine shop will need to do it because you'll have to have the cylinders honed and the block decked (shave a little off the top to make it even)

Block guard just stops the cylinders from moving at the top, sleeves are just stronger cylinder walls <--- this is what I'm guessing from what I've read, could be wrong. Block guards cause cooling problems because they block coolant passages... sleeves do not. (i think)

I have a feeling that s15 turbo is going to be way too underpowered for what you need. I doubt any stock import turbos will work for what you want...

turbo-back exhaust means downpipe all the way to the muffler. No catalyst.

as for suspension, I've got no idea. At least the LSD is good... have a pro install it properly.
 

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block gaurds are useless... sleeves or stock....

for that amount of power i'd consider sleeves, but the stock ones might hold up.. and that turbo will be maxing out probably way before 1.7 bar. so heres the list i'd get....

rods
pistons
sleeves
lsd
axles
headwork
upgraded manifold
3" downpipe, 3" full exhaust, no catalytic converter.
 

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well how about a turbo?
 

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oscarmayer said:
Breaking also needs to be up to snuff to stop you so slotted rotors dot5 brake fluid form auto store (silicone ) and good pads (greenstuff is good stuff)
My understanding is that you are not supposed to use silicone fluid in our hondas. Need to stick with dot 3/4. ATE Superblue/Type 200 Gold are great. I'm a fan of Carbotech for breaks. However this is a little off topic since this is the turbo forum. Just my $0.02
 

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errr...

still small
 
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kommon_sense said:
My understanding is that you are not supposed to use silicone fluid in our hondas. Need to stick with dot 3/4. ATE Superblue/Type 200 Gold are great. I'm a fan of Carbotech for breaks. However this is a little off topic since this is the turbo forum. Just my $0.02
Not sure where that caome from, but it's not accurate, if your doing performance breaking you need fluid that will not boil in the lines. silicone is better than standard stuff. my lines are all upgraded to teflon so maybe it's not good to run it on stock rubber lines? that's the only think i can see as an arguement. I've been running dot5 for years now.
 
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