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Discussion Starter #1
this is my first review so bare with me.
the ebay link to the item Civic D15 D16 Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Gauge | eBay
i bought this item because i had installed a walboro 255 fuel pump because my car is turbo. i notice the car was running very rich and i could smell gas like crazy.so after i installed the gauge that comes with the kit on top of the fuel filter. i noticed with the stock fuel pressure regulator with the vacuum line off my psi was at about 54-55psi. it should have been around 47psi. so i installed the kit which was very simple and this kit is very quality built.i adjusted the fuel pressure down to about 47-48psi with the vacuum line off which gave me about 40-41psi with the vacuum line on. i went for a test drive the difference was amazing.i could give it full throttle and the car would keep picking up. it wasnt sluggish and my wide band was dead on almost.(still a little rich though). i smell no gas what so ever.
the parts are quality built and you dont have to cut the stock fuel pressure regulator like some kits.you could use this for stock or with turbo.
if any one wants me to make a diy install guide let me know
 

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'92 CX Twincharged D
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This is good to know I have one of these I'm installing on my twincharged civic and I was hoping it would be better than my last ebey regulator.

As for a DIY install guide, do it people like seeing stuff like that on here :)
 

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Ek sedan
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I use an aeromotive and it drops pressure pretty quick when its off, people say its normal with them. With the stock I would still have fuel pressure the next day.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it holds pressure good right after cutting the car off it takes a good while for the pressure to drop. i dont know if it matters how long it holds pressure with the car off. but definetly with the car on it does.but i guess we will see if this one fails or not.
 

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Huh, my $25 ebay one still works fine after like 5 years. They are so simple it amazes me manufacturers botch them so bad. I mean really, its a spring, a piece of flexible diaphram with a plate on it, and exit hole and an entrance hole.....

Blows my mind how much they charge for something so simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
its been about 2 months and i let the car sit about three days and come back and still had fuel pressure on the gauge.
 

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its been about 2 months and i let the car sit about three days and come back and still had fuel pressure on the gauge.
You're one of the lucky ones. I've rolled the eBay dice on a FPR for another car. It had inconsistent fuel pressure. Ditched that hunk of junk and went for the more expensive OEM unit. Never had an issue with OEM.

On that note, I have purchased cheap "eBay" radiators for different projects. Some leak, some don't. Sure, off brand things will work sometimes, but the higher failure rate for cheap components is what tends to steer people away.

"But shit, it was 99 cents!"
 

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In my experience most cheap stuff is usually not that much different from name brand stuff, except that good name brand stuff has much better quality control.

So if I buy something off ebay I assume I am the quality control. So if an ebay adjustable FPR is $25 bucks and I have to spend 30-60 minutes taking it apart, deburring it internally and make sure everything works right, its worth it to me over buying a $200 good name brand FPR that I can just bolt on and expect to work. Now if the name brand one is $40-50 and the ebay one is $25, then the ebay one isnt worth it to me.

Same thing with anything off ebay, take exhaust piping: $600 for a cat back mandrel bent 2.5" steel exhaust with a cheap muffler locally, or $190 for a stainless header, "cat" and entire catback off ebay that will probably require $50 worth the adjustment locally.
 

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94 Integra
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This is basically a rebranded Sard knockoff. I can't find find people with issues so it's quite possible they spec'd decent internals. Some Sard knockoffs are very poor quality. It would be nice to see the insides of that unit.

I use an aeromotive and it drops pressure pretty quick when its off, people say its normal with them. With the stock I would still have fuel pressure the next day.
That's the difference between rubber closing the port and a metal sealing the port. Many [high-end] aftermarket FPR's use a metal ball/disc in the middle of a silicone diaphragm. Our ECU's have a 2-sec prime feature, so it's more an inconvenience than a deal-breaker.


Speaking of diaphragms, that is the major difference between cheap & expensive. Expensive units use either Viton rubber or silicone, both will last 10+ years submerged in most fuels. Most knock-off's use the cheapest material they can get - one unit had rubber that was literally crumbling, another used a stiff sheet of polyethylene.

I know that racing is not cheap, but there are 2 things you should NEVER cheap out on - tires & fuel components. Think for a sec just how fast your motor will melt if your fuel pressure drops from 47psi differential to 30psi or less. I'll run some cheap items myself, but I draw the line where it could clearly kill me or my motor.
 

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I briefly ran an even cheaper FPR off of ebay, and ended up taking it off because I did not trust it. Its nice to see this unit the OP posted seems decent though its about twice what most cheap fprs run. I ended up with the AEM unit, talked to my dealer who has been in business for almost 20 years now and he recommended AEM or Aeromotive. I asked which was more reliable and he said return rates were the same, but AEM was half the cost.
 

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Think for a sec just how fast your motor will melt if your fuel pressure drops from 47psi differential to 30psi or less.
That is an excellent question to ask yourself about your specific build. Running 250hp D series turbo on stock internals? You better make sure your fuel system is dead on.

Running a relatively low compression NA engine? Ehhhh I mean its nice for it to be consistent, but even if something goes wonky for a second you are unlikely to damage anything.
 

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I ended up with the AEM unit, talked to my dealer who has been in business for almost 20 years now and he recommended AEM or Aeromotive. I asked which was more reliable and he said return rates were the same, but AEM was half the cost.
Make sure it's from an actual AEM dealer. THere are TONS of knockoffs out there. You can get a carton of fakes for $10/each, which is $10 too much.

I've sold a LOT of fuel injectors in the last 4 years and of all issues brought forward, all but 2 were caused by a China FPR. The other 2 were from clogged injectors.
 
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