Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
started assembly on my y8 vitara build (cookie cutter basically).

i'm using the P2P0 I beams and coated STD bore vitaras (pm3 bore sized), acl race bearings.

i got the bores hones and checked piston to wall and each cylinder was .0026-.003, so which i'm VERY happy with. so i went ahead to ring gap, out the box the 2nd compression rings were between .020-.021 great, so i was hoping for .017-.018 on the top rings, well, didnt happen. top ring gaps out the box were .011-.013, way too tight for my liking. which brings me to the point of this post.

i've never done a turbo build and all the all motor and OE rebuilds i've done didnt need any ring filing to fall in spec so i've never bought a ring filer, and dont plan to just for this 1 time use.... so my question is what is everyone using to file rings besides a ring filer?

also curious if all my specs are sounding good so far, any suggestions, recommendations, etc.....

i should add that this will be limited to 325-350whp not the typical 400whp goal.
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I've never done it but I see no reason why you couldn't use a regular file or whatever? PTW is .003 on 75mm bore or 75.5
75mm STD bore with just a light ball stone hone (280 grit balls). these are the P2P0 vitaras that are sized correctly for the D16, not the old style vitaras that will yield .006-.008 PTW on a stock bore.

I just used a small file clamped in a vise. Worked for me.
regular file wont do crap on these rings, i tried, i much of filed for 10 minutes and didnt even get an honest .001 more end gap.

called a few friends and ended up picking up a ring filer so all is good, on my way out to get to work, should be running by dinner time.
 

·
Classic Man
Civic
Joined
·
16,355 Posts
use a regular old bastard file to do most the work.

stick it in a vice and only file one side of the ring so you can buttt the two edges up and make sure they are flush

only file in one direction, toward the inside edge of the ring, so you dont have any little burrs sticking out into the cylinder wall.



use a diamond file to fine tune or clean up edges on the rings.



the 1st comp ring is very hard. you will be filing for a while.
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
thanks dan but i was done before your post. my buddy ended up having a ring file rigged to a dremel. literally took 10 minutes to get all 4 top rings gapped perfectly to .017.....

bottom end is still apart though because once i dropped the pistons and rods in i realized the girdle needed notched. so its out i started notching it and got called in by the boss (my wife)......

tomorrow it'll be buttoned up and if i dont run into any problems it'll be running.
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
lol, she has half the money and all the pussy, hence the reason she is the boss....

anyhow, notching this girdlle is proving to be a pain. i've been through a WHOLE dremel assesorry kit and its still not even half done.
 

·
Classic Man
Civic
Joined
·
16,355 Posts
use a carbide bit with large flutes designed for aluminum. it will be much quicker.

dont try to push too hard or it will melt the aluminum and load up the bit.
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the tip, i just bought a new set of carbide bits off the tool truck today, there are 8 in it but they arent designed for aluminum so i'm sure they will load up quickly. when i was doing my oil pan (aluminum y8 pan) i found out that taking the carbide bit to the wire wheel on the bench grinder pulls alot of the aluminum out if you do it before it gets crushed down into the flutes real tight, but i impatiently kept grinding and grinding and ruined that one, which is why i was using the dremel kit on the girdle.

hopefully i'll get a chance to do the girdle tomorrow while i'm at work, but i'm not off again until sunday so thats when i'll get another shot at fitting it.

quick question, is the tube in the midldle of the girdle the only place oil is running? i'm worried about grinding through and ruining the girdle, but if its only the center tube then no big deal. most people seem to go atleast 1/4" deep so thats what i'm going to do. and does the big allen plug at the end of the girdle tube come off i'd feel better if it does so i can really clean it out afterwards.
 

·
Registered
same
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
sorry when i'm working i dont stop to take pictures, and normally once i "start" doing something i finish it in one setting...... so i rarely get "during" pictures of anything.

i do have pictures with the bottom end assembled with the head off (cell phone pics), and some finished pictures, but everyones seen them (same as every other build).
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top