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I made an excel out of all of the info in this tread if anyone is interested....

mods make excel atachable so you can just plug your numbers in and it tells you ring gap, P2W clearance, TQ specs etc
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I made an excel out of all of the info in this tread if anyone is interested....

mods make excel atachable so you can just plug your numbers in and it tells you ring gap, P2W clearance, TQ specs etc

Nice shit bro:bigok:
 

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Awesome... nOObs saying there piece... First of all to the Op... Great post! Sticky for sure!

Second, because CR is different for each successive step in oversize (75.5mm and 76mm) it would be nice to have them posted up with the same assumptions about headgasket, rod lenght, etc... Also, ring gaps and clocking info would be a great thing to add to the post with a quick exlanation as to why they have to be so much larger than the chilton,haynes,helms manuals say they should be as well as PTW clearances for different horsepower goals or intended uses (dd, street strip, all out race)...

Finally, with all this info in one place we will have a great place to point nOObs to for information regarding a cheap build. A cost comparison for the 2 typical Vitara builds (standard length Eagles vs the Fjdistributors custom length rods) and the average Forged piston build (eagles and SRP's) would be good as well. I think that once anyone gets the comparison of $ to Horsepower spent shown to them they will then understand why so many people do the Vitara build and why our little engines are becoming so popular. This in turn could help out the rest of us in the "D" with valuable info for companies looking to make an extra buck designing more improved parts for our engines and cars. Who knows, we could actually end up swaying a company to make a cheap forged alternative to the Vitara piston and using the "D" forum as a test bed...

Then, anytime a nOOb or not so nOOb asks questions about the Vitara build, we can point them here to this post instead of flaming them for being a nOOb and asking questions... Face it, no matter how hard you try, you can't idiot proof anything and nOObs are going to ask questions... Every once in a while a question pops up with a valid reason needing a valid answer from a nOOb regarding the Vitara build...

Again, to the OP - Great post!
Thank you sir! Every noob appreciates your defense.
 

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I am trying to find info/pics about the piston skirts cracking occasionally, mabye add that in as well?

Searching hasnt produced much for me so far using key words Vitara, crack, skirt
 

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Discussion Starter #49

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I've built a few vitara motors now and on my newest motor I went with a new benson sleeved block. I also went back to stock bore of 75mm. I'm now wondering if I should have went with the 75.5mm bore. What kind of advantages have you guys experienced with the extra .5mm bore? My original vitara motor was a 75.5 but not having a 75mm version prior to didn't allow for me to compare data. Any data you could give me would be great.
 

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Ring lands:
Measured at 21deg celsius :)

Top compression ring land: 1.21mm+-
Bottom compression ring land: 1.51mm+-
Oil control ring land: 2.80mm+-
 

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in case some people don't know what notching the block means its just cutting into the block or the very bottom of the cylinder wall for the connecting rod clearance when its spinning here's a pic when it was done in my d16z6.
#1
 

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Piston pin(gauging pin) offset:
If the piston dish faces you and the arrow points to the right then the pin sits 0.5mm+- closer to you, or if you would hold it like a normal person it will be closer to you thumb.
Thus it is 0.5mm+- off centre.
 

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which way are u guy facing ur rod where the notch is or does it matter? Dipstick side or oil filter side. I just noticed mine not all facing the same direction.
 

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what are you guys running for timing? Base and ignition timing.
it depends

but generally speaking due to less CR run more timing base stock
 
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