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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
VITARA INFO Thread-Add Your Knowledge

I thought it would be a great Idea to start a thread with all the Vitara Piston Info along with custom rod lengths vs standard length info so that you don't have to see 100 threads a week asking the same question. So if you have valuable Information to add go ahead and maybe we can get this stickied. I know all the info is out there it just needs to be put in 1 thread.

A 75mm Vitara Piston has a compression height of 28.3 and a dish volume of -15cc
The standard Length rod for a D16 is 137mm
The Custom Length FJ Rods for a D16 are 138.63mm(5.458 in)
(This puts the piston closer to the deck surface increasing compression ratio.)

All numbers were calculated using the Zeal calculator. Honda D-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks The Head gasket used for calculations was a Y8 2 layer (.025)

Approximate compression ratios with 75mm pistons (Compression increases roughly.07-.08 with 75.5mm pistons)
D16z6 with standard length Rods and Vitaras- 7.64 to 1
D16z6 with FJ custom length rods and vitaras- 8.54 to 1
D16y8 with standard length Rods and Vitaras- 7.84 to 1
D16y8 with FJ custom length rods and vitaras- 8.81 to 1
D16a6 with standard length Rods and Vitaras - 7.28 to 1
D16a6 with FJ custom length rods and vitaras- 8.09 to 1

With a z6 gasket( .037 ) compression numbers go down ~.15
With a A6 gasket( .048 )compression numbers go down ~.25-.28
Compared to the 2 layer Y8
So obviously if you are looking for the highest compression gasket you would go with the 2 layer Y8 gasket

The highest compression ratio can be made using a y8 head due to the difference in combustion chamber volume.
D16y8 head = 32.8 cc
D16z6 head = 34.6 cc
D16a6 head = 38.0 cc
THE GREAT ARROW DEBATE-
"Arrow towards the flywheel on a D-series is the current thinking. The reason being the pin is slightly offset and the Honda engine turns backwards, hence the reversed orientation." This Is True yet many have been ran the other way as well. JFK has his arrows pointed towards the flywheel and has made 600+hp. Others have made 400 with the arrow towards the timing belt.The main thing to remember is that you will get pistons slap both ways if you have a very large PTW clearance.

Actual Piston Sizes- These measurements have been taken by various members of the D-series community.
Ycp 75.5mm vitara's from FJ Distributors
Diameter
Piston 1. 2.9684"
Piston 2. 2.9684"
Piston 3. 2.9683"
Piston 4. 2.9682"
Piston pin diameter - all 4. .7470"

Piston pin offset
Intake - 1.1195"
Exhaust - 1.1380"

Intake relief width - 1.0490"
Intake relief depth - 0.1530"

Exhaust relief width - 0.9615"
Exhaust relief depth - 0.1685"
Measurements were taken with arrow towards flywheel.

PTW Clearances with Vitaras-
Many have heard .001 for every 100 hp so that is what I will stick with. This is a good rule of thumb and has worked in many builds. Normal Vitara builds are shooting for roughly 250-400HP so .0025" to .004"

Notching- There have been many different opinions on notching with the Different types of Rods. For Eagles it has been pretty much standard to notch the block and Girdle,I have heard of some people getting away without though. For the FJ Rods the same has been said. Fj States that no notching is required for the D15B though due to the shorter stroke.But it is needed with the d16s . My opinion is @ 8000 Rpm I want to make sure shit clears. So a standard notch job may be or may not be "needed" but It will definitely give you a peace of mind if you are close during assembly.
The Old One - Energy Dynamics : Articles -Great article on notching

FJ Distributors - for all your vitara/custom length rods
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/131753-vitara-builds-dyno-vault-hall-fame.html - Some High HP Vitara Builds

THE NEW COATED VITARA PISTON- Measures 2.953
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/135478-new-custom-vitaras-actual-75mm-bore-teflon-coated-skirts.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/product-reviews/136038-p2p0-teflon-coated-vitaras-75-5-a.html
Please add info to this thread as you read it.:bigok:

Ring Gap
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/133308-piston-ring-gap-quick-answer.html

Previous Vitara Piston Question threads:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/134339-d16y8-p2w-clearance-vitara.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/131657-gauging-interest-new-vitara-piston.html
 

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I say just ban every noob that doesnt know how a search engine works.

But this will do, I suppose. :)
 

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I say just ban every noob that doesnt know how a search engine works.

But this will do, I suppose. :)
maybe you learned it all by urself, but its a good idea from the op to want to help out others in the need... you had to be a noob at some point and my guess would be that you asked questions to actually learn.. lets just say ''search engines'' are not always the way to go. like approching people that have experience would be a crazy idea that some of us would use instead.

a post count, a question about what setup to use or any other related issues regarless..doesnt make someone a noob. you never know who you talk to, i believe everyone here has the same goal and interest, banning might not be the best way to help someone who wants to learn.

my opinion.
 

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my opinion.
Is not needed.

To be honest, even as a noob, I didnt ask questions. I got my ass on HMT (before Rick P's faggot ass), and searched my ass off. If I couldnt find it there, I googled it. If I could find the answer, I looked harder. Because guaranteed, some "noob" had asked the same stupid question that I wanted to ask, and a million people answered it.

And in the end, I turbo'd my first Honda, and with great success. And the shit that went wrong, I had enough common sense and mechanical ability to figure it out.

Noob or not, if you cant do that, or dont want to, you shouldnt be working on your car in the first place. Take it to a shop, and pay them to do it for you.

If you dont want to research, spend some money, do some trial and error, and blow some shit up. The information that is out there, is because someone else did this in the first place.

I cant believe, with how big of a trend the Vitara build is, people are still answering the stupid fucking questions, that these "noobs" are asking. The information is EVERYWHERE, in EVERY build, on EVERY forum. It cant be that hard to find.

But luckily for you, or whomever else, including myself, someone got tired of the retards, and finally just spoon fed everyone the answers, and compiled it all into one thread... Which, even if it gets stickied, someone will still start a new thread, asking questions about Vitara pistons and deck heights.
 

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can't knock a guy just "trying" to spread the info... nice write up. i'll subscribe to it... as im doing my build and it never hurts to have references or be able to be like "o let me pm this guy real quick he may have the answer" etc etc. nice job son.
 

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Awesome... nOObs saying there piece... First of all to the Op... Great post! Sticky for sure!

Second, because CR is different for each successive step in oversize (75.5mm and 76mm) it would be nice to have them posted up with the same assumptions about headgasket, rod lenght, etc... Also, ring gaps and clocking info would be a great thing to add to the post with a quick exlanation as to why they have to be so much larger than the chilton,haynes,helms manuals say they should be as well as PTW clearances for different horsepower goals or intended uses (dd, street strip, all out race)...

Finally, with all this info in one place we will have a great place to point nOObs to for information regarding a cheap build. A cost comparison for the 2 typical Vitara builds (standard length Eagles vs the Fjdistributors custom length rods) and the average Forged piston build (eagles and SRP's) would be good as well. I think that once anyone gets the comparison of $ to Horsepower spent shown to them they will then understand why so many people do the Vitara build and why our little engines are becoming so popular. This in turn could help out the rest of us in the "D" with valuable info for companies looking to make an extra buck designing more improved parts for our engines and cars. Who knows, we could actually end up swaying a company to make a cheap forged alternative to the Vitara piston and using the "D" forum as a test bed...

Then, anytime a nOOb or not so nOOb asks questions about the Vitara build, we can point them here to this post instead of flaming them for being a nOOb and asking questions... Face it, no matter how hard you try, you can't idiot proof anything and nOObs are going to ask questions... Every once in a while a question pops up with a valid reason needing a valid answer from a nOOb regarding the Vitara build...

Again, to the OP - Great post!
 

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Crxlifer21 post the links to the old ones block notching and ring gapping and clocking...if you don't know the site I will post it when I get back to my laptop since this is comming from my droid.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Crxlifer21 post the links to the old ones block notching and ring gapping and clocking...if you don't know the site I will post it when I get back to my laptop since this is comming from my droid.
Updated added some INFO-
 

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Might want to explain WHY the Vitaras create such a low compression ratio, and WHY the FJ I beams are able to raise the CR, with a little rod length. (Compression height)
 

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-Also could explain the orientation of the arrow on the piston to help eliminate piston slap.
-the maximum power made to date
-some y7 compression specs
-common p2w clearances
 

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^I think zeal lists the Y7 combustion chamber same as the Z6.
 

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sticky.

also dont forget tuner toy rods, i know you really cant get them anymore but ppl still sell them used. also FJ just came out with a new vitara piston (well he ordered them different) that gives options as to what CR you want depending upon your build.

heres the link but i suggest posting the numbers up on here as well..

heres the link for the NEW vitara piston options from FJ:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/131657-gauging-interest-new-vitara-piston.html

Also heres two more links for his new d15b7 forged rods as well (cant forget those d15 guys)

http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/111478-us-d15b7-forged-rods.html

http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/131654-long-awaited-usdm-d15b2-b7-rods.html


and i looked using the infamous "search" button but couldnt find anything on the D15B spec rods he has as well. would be nice to post numbers up about those rods and CR with vitaras or any other piston brand.

just my 2 cents for you.
 

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CRXlifer21, with FJ r-spec rods Block Notching is required just not the girdle. and i believe H beams both block and Girdle need to be notched. you might change that on your original post.

also to add:

-Rod Tangs face Exhaust Side
-R Spec Rods ARP Rod Bolts Torqued to 43FT/LB use Lube!!! torque each bolt 3 times before final torque!!!

Links:
The Old One - Energy Dynamics : Articles
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/engine_tips/piston_facts/pistonfacts.htm
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/130891-clocking-rings.html
arp rod bolt torque specs
 

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Discussion Starter #19
CRXlifer21, with FJ r-spec rods Block Notching is required just not the girdle. and i believe H beams both block and Girdle need to be notched. you might change that on your original post.

also to add:

-Rod Tangs face Exhaust Side
-R Spec Rods ARP Rod Bolts Torqued to 43FT/LB use Lube!!! torque each bolt 3 times before final torque!!!

Links:
The Old One - Energy Dynamics : Articles
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/engine_tips/piston_facts/pistonfacts.htm
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/130891-clocking-rings.html
arp rod bolt torque specs
"Notice there is no notching of the cylinders... With the JDM D15b and our FJ R SPEC rods there in none, zero, nada notching required due to the shorter stroke of the crank.. This is not the case with D16 Engines.." Taken From Fjs build

I see, First post will reflect this Thanks.:bigok:
 
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