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Discussion Starter #1
I'm finishing up fabricating and installing everything for my turbo build to go to the dyno later this month. I wanted to be sure my engine was in the proper place before finishing up my downpipe, IC piping, etc. so I installed an Innovative 85A mount to replace my liquid filled mount with 350k miles on it :yes:

I ended up at 85A after reading a lot of threads about how it wasn't too bad. About six years ago I used to drive a gutted 83 Mustang with open headers, and a cam/heads/intake, so I figured I could handle whatever vibration this lil D was gonna put out.

Below is a video of the vibrations from inside the car. Honestly, not that bad at idle. But from about 1200-3000rpm it was BRUTAL. But above that it felt sooooo good. This is my DD so I'm gonna have to knock it down to either 75A or 60A. I must be getting soft in my old age. The car still has a bone stock exhaust, so it is silent when driving normally. That kind of raspy ricey sound is vibration from the motor/door panels etc. I put the liquid filled one back in for the time being. At the end you can hear how gnarly it was when I downshifted into second.

Any recommendations on 75A vs 60A? Did anyone else experience this much vibration? Should I be worried about fabbing all my parts and then having everything fit poorly when I switch that mount out? Am I being a little bitch about the vibrations, haha?

And yes, I know my AFR's are off. That is why I am going to the dyno for le tune.

Innovative 85A Driver Side Motor Mount In 97 Civic - YouTube

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I also want to say real quick, that I am in no way blaming Innovative for this. I know what happens when you use stiff mounts, i just didn't expect it to be this bad. I am planning on keeping the mount and just getting a different stiffness bushing. The quality of the mount is great, and the fit was perfect.
 

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crx
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im using the 60A on my crx and its good for a boosted daily driver. im using the explicitspeed mounts. i ran them for 5 years with no issues. i made the mistake of letting my tranny dangle with motor out for a few months and the mounts got stretched.
 

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crx
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make sure you torque the mounts down good. is that right when you installed it or after a while? i had to torque mine to spec with lock washers and add nuts on the driver upper mount ( 89 CRX )

and with solid mounts you can just run 3 mounts, the 2 uppers and the rear lower.

main thing that vibrated in my car is the sunroof , bodyshop did a sunroof delete and my glove box latch that i used Loctite on cause the screw kept coming out..
 

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Try loosening all the mounts and than re-tighten in sequence according to the FSM. I had a similar issue and this fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
wow im usiong the same mount and model year and my stuff doesnt vibrate that bad. you could just locate what is makeing all the racket and remove it or strap it down better.

would be cheaper then replacing the mount entirely.
Well, I know you can get softer bushings from Innovate and just press the old one out and new one in, so I wouldn't have to replace the whole mount. How many miles are on your car? I'm at 350k miles + Michigan car = rusty loose stuff probably slapping around in the engine bay, lol. I might have to just find what is vibrating and fix it. But it's vibrating pretty bad.

make sure you torque the mounts down good. is that right when you installed it or after a while? i had to torque mine to spec with lock washers and add nuts on the driver upper mount ( 89 CRX )
This is right after I installed it. Where did you lose lock washers? On the bushing itself? Or on the bolts that go to the engine/body?

lol that rattle is worse than my old car with harder mounts than that. My car barely rattled at idle and then after 1000rpm it was quiet
That's another thing I'm confused about. Everyone says that it will rattle at idle and above like 1k/1.5k it will be good. I'm not sure why mine is smooth at idle and then rough from 1.5k to 3k.

Try loosening all the mounts and than re-tighten in sequence according to the FSM. I had a similar issue and this fixed it.
I will try that. I just popped it in and didn't do anything to the other mounts. Hopefully it is something like this.

My other mounts are the stock mounts, so they have a shit load of miles on them. Could having one good mount and three other stock old worn out mounts be adding to the vibration? I know I need to replace them, and I'm planning on it, I just don't really have the cash until after the dyno. With the stock liquid filled mount everything is really smooth. There doesn't seem to be much engine movement when I put my hand on it with the stock mounts. I'm not really sure if that means anything or not.
 

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That's another thing I'm confused about. Everyone says that it will rattle at idle and above like 1k/1.5k it will be good. I'm not sure why mine is smooth at idle and then rough from 1.5k to 3k.
Mine is smooth at idle and then vibrates between 1.5k-3k. Smooth as butter after 3k. Mine are the 90whatever hardness.
 

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Ek sedan
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I just put 88a hasports in my ek a few weeks ago and I spent hours puting foam in between rattling panels lol Mine is only real bad when I very first start it and 2000-2500rpm. But don't get me wrong I wouldn't daily the shit
 

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my Skateboard
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Try loosening all the mounts and than re-tighten in sequence according to the FSM. I had a similar issue and this fixed it.
If you don't do it per sequence of the FSM you will have excessive vibrations even with stock mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Toaster - That would be one way to do it!

If you don't do it per sequence of the FSM you will have excessive vibrations even with stock mounts.
Okay, that will definitely be my first step.

My original plan was to have this build be a mix of high-quality purchased parts (like this mount) and DIY. When I started a few years back I purchased some 60A two-part urethane from McMaster to do my own mounts. So I just ordered the passenger side upper, rear, and lower driver side stock mounts from Rock Auto (I don't have the passenger lower mount anymore, and I really can't remember what the hell happened to it, haha). When they come in I am going to use my urethane to fill them. My thinking is that I have one rigid point on my engine right now so the other parts are probably flopping around in rubber that is 17 years old with a ton of miles.

I'm hoping that with filling and replacing those, following the FSM sequence, and tightening up some loose bits I can get the car where it is comfortable enough. It'll be a week or so before I receive, fill, and swap the mounts; but I will post an update when I do.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I went through when I did my clutch and followed the FSM tightening sequence, at the same time I put in my DIY filled mounts.





The vibration was still really bad, but more evenly distributed throughout the car instead of just seeming to come from the drivers side. I ordered the 60A insert from Innovative, and swapped it out. Put the mount back in. Much much better. I just got dyno'd last week and watched the engine, I saw very little movement. I think 60A all around is just fine for a 300-350whp DD car. I'm sure that 85A is great for track only, but it was just too much for my taste on a DD.

Also, if anyone is thinking about swapping their Innovative inserts, I would recommend sending them in. It was easy enough to get the old ones out, but really difficult to get the new ones in. I lost a few chunks out of mine. And I have access to a big ass press, I wasn't hammering with sockets or anything. So unless you are in a hurry as I was before my tune, just drop the extra cash to ship them out. Or order the right stiffness the first time.
 
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