Honda D Series Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wasnt the symptom of vibrating the reason you ripped your original engine apart?

Could be time for another engine i guess.
No, it was because I installed rod bearings and the damn noise that I was having from them before I changed them got even worsened and so I just changed the engine. It had over 200.000 miles on it though. The bearings were aftermarket from EBay.
 

·
Registered
93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
The vibration goes away because the ecu raises the idle when the ac is on, its vibrating for likely a number of reasons, motor/trans hanger mounts cheap or worn out, low fuel pressure/high fuel pressure-fuel pump, wrong spark plugs, bad ground cables, worn out head that didn't get a valve job when it was ripped off a blown motor and put on a junkyard motor, junkyard bottom end. It could be any, or it could be little bits of all of it.
Save up, rebuild the motor RIGHT with quality parts, replace worn and damaged accessories like fuel pump unit, coils, use the correct laser platinum ngk plugs, ect, ect, ect.
But I think you should start with basic maintenance skills first, research motor oil and what its job is, then research to find a QUALITY oil to use FOR YOUR APPLICATION AND CLIMATE! Then start researching replacement parts, like bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, mounts, fuel pumps, ect. And lastly but certainly important as well, research the gasoline contents in your area, there ARE different qualities of fuel available, your car has an internal regulator on the in tank fuel pump, and NO external filter, run top quality gas ALWAYS, since your car has a knock sensor the octane rating really won't matter much, but the quality does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The vibration goes away because the ecu raises the idle when the ac is on, its vibrating for likely a number of reasons, motor/trans hanger mounts cheap or worn out, low fuel pressure/high fuel pressure-fuel pump, wrong spark plugs, bad ground cables, worn out head that didn't get a valve job when it was ripped off a blown motor and put on a junkyard motor, junkyard bottom end. It could be any, or it could be little bits of all of it.
Save up, rebuild the motor RIGHT with quality parts, replace worn and damaged accessories like fuel pump unit, coils, use the correct laser platinum ngk plugs, ect, ect, ect.
But I think you should start with basic maintenance skills first, research motor oil and what its job is, then research to find a QUALITY oil to use FOR YOUR APPLICATION AND CLIMATE! Then start researching replacement parts, like bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets, mounts, fuel pumps, ect. And lastly but certainly important as well, research the gasoline contents in your area, there ARE different qualities of fuel available, your car has an internal regulator on the in tank fuel pump, and NO external filter, run top quality gas ALWAYS, since your car has a knock sensor the octane rating really won't matter much, but the quality does.
Ok. I'm using OEM injectors. The mounts at the rear and front are aftermarket, the one at the side between the radiator and the engine is OEM from (Hondaparts.com). The short block is the is the one i got from the burn out car that i bought, but the car was vibrating before i changed the engine. When i first bought the car, all mounts and control arm bushings were all shattered but there was no vibrations,trust me lol. Its funny right? I put fuel cleaner in my tank about 2 months ago and always using them in my tank. My gas needle not really reading right so i know that the fuel pressure regulator need to be replace and i will have to buy the whole fuel pump assembly. I changed the fuel filter and pump also when i first bought the car, its a denso brand on the pump and filter. I was talking with a honda dealer service guy and he asked what settings i have the valves lash set to? I told him that they set to 0.008 intake and 0.0010 exhaust and he said that the aftermarket mounts can cause the vibration to. But i dont know for sure what is going on.
 

·
Registered
93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
As I said, its likely a number of things that aren't exactly bad but could/should be better. Start with basic cheap stuff first, see if getting it running smoother lets the cheap aftermarket hanger mounts absorb the leftovers. What oil weight and type are you running? Traffic and climate conditions? What spark plugs are in it? Are all your ground cables and connections clean and tight?
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
Joined
·
2,425 Posts
As I said, its likely a number of things that aren't exactly bad but could/should be better. Start with basic cheap stuff first, see if getting it running smoother lets the cheap aftermarket hanger mounts absorb the leftovers. What oil weight and type are you running? Traffic and climate conditions? What spark plugs are in it? Are all your ground cables and connections clean and tight?
This guy has been there, done that lol. Who knows what condition anything is in at this point. He's been advised on multiple things, but definitely wants to learn the hard expensive way.

I mean, i give this guy props for trying. But damn, its all a fun yet frustrating read. I honestly dont think offering advice beyond what has already been said is going to help:


-Installed piston rings, learned about break in procedures, and differences of compression and oil rings 1 year later. States engine is not making peak power:

-Engine was vibrating. Adjusted valves 300 times, still didnt fix. So replaced the valvetrain from a junker, still didnt fix. Proceeds to rebuild engine:

-Vtec pressure switch was leaking. Silicone didnt fix:

-Some kind of auto/manual love child issues, so tries 3 very expensive trans fluids to fix:

-75mm is not 74.98mm, 4" doesnt fit into a 3" hole

-engine is rebuilt, but for some reason has no compression on 3 cylinders, magical s shaped hose mystery:

-the post is titled transmission bracket, then says hes going to swap the engine bottom end for a junkyard one for some reason. Also, assholes, hotdogs and shapeshifting white indian dudes:

-gets it running again, but idle is high. Bleeds cooling system for like a week to try and fix 2 unrelated engine codes:

-"American mad". Apparently goes off and buys a complete junkyard engine to replace all the other stuff that has been F'd over time:

-contemplating swapping the cam on his brand new engine for some reason:

-surprise, the junkyard engine overheats:

-random clicking sound cant be located after working on the car. Shotgun replaces the axle:

-and now we are back to the engine is fucking vibrating again:
 

·
BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
Joined
·
5,893 Posts
the "ignore" feature is a neat thing to have.
homie went IN on him lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: robgoof

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
As I said, its likely a number of things that aren't exactly bad but could/should be better. Start with basic cheap stuff first, see if getting it running smoother lets the cheap aftermarket hanger mounts absorb the leftovers. What oil weight and type are you running? Traffic and climate conditions? What spark plugs are in it? Are all your ground cables and connections clean and tight?
Dealer sparks plugs, 5w20 oil. My ground wires are tight and the mating surfaces are clean. Im using 87 octain gas. I'm living in texas.
 

·
Registered
93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
If you are open to some testing, and have a few spare bucks, go grab a harbor freight cheapo compression tester set, if you dont already have something, refrain from renting, comparisons should always be done with the exact same gauge. Check your compression with the 5w20 oil (both warm and cold), change your oil with 10w30 and drive it a week or 2, then check compression again, compare readings pre and post oil change. Remember to disconnect injector wiring and block throttle open when testing, give it about 5-6 hits per cylinder, but be sure you count and keep it the same for each one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you are open to some testing, and have a few spare bucks, go grab a harbor freight cheapo compression tester set, if you dont already have something, refrain from renting, comparisons should always be done with the exact same gauge. Check your compression with the 5w20 oil (both warm and cold), change your oil with 10w30 and drive it a week or 2, then check compression again, compare readings pre and post oil change. Remember to disconnect injector wiring and block throttle open when testing, give it about 5-6 hits per cylinder, but be sure you count and keep it the same for each one.
Ok. So the 10w30 wouldn't be to thick to use since its not a turbo built ride?
 

·
Registered
93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
Joined
·
1,479 Posts
Oil weight depends on a number of factors, thus the point of this test, i want you to see the results for yourself. A factory recommended oil weight is based on factory spec new bottom end, new oil pump, new head, ect, at 74-84°F mean average. With 200k miles of unknown on that bottom end and however much is on your head in Texas environment with sometimes sudden temp spikes high to low and back again, you have no idea what your clearances are at bearings, cylinder wall to piston, valve stem to guide, cam to journal, pin to rocker, ect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oil weight depends on a number of factors, thus the point of this test, i want you to see the results for yourself. A factory recommended oil weight is based on factory spec new bottom end, new oil pump, new head, ect, at 74-84°F mean average. With 200k miles of unknown on that bottom end and however much is on your head in Texas environment with sometimes sudden temp spikes high to low and back again, you have no idea what your clearances are at bearings, cylinder wall to piston, valve stem to guide, cam to journal, pin to rocker, ect.
Ok yeah, texas gets really hot like 110-110-115 at times. Im using 5w20 Royal purple now and i just put it in when i switched out the engine and i dont want to change it just yet because its expensive but i get what you are saying.
By any means, you know the specs for the inner tie rod torgue specs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,232 Posts
if you blip the throttle, does it go away after a second, or does it smooth immediately?

Check the front mount near the clutch slave. THey like to come loose. Dont over tighten it.

4 cylinders have a natural resonance, and vibrate badly. That is why nearly all 4 cylinders have goofy big mounts.

Your aftermarket moutns could also be garbage, like they generally are for any car.
 

·
Registered
Sloppy Jalopy
Joined
·
2,528 Posts
My gas needle not really reading right so i know that the fuel pressure regulator need to be replace and i will have to buy the whole fuel pump assembly.
imagine op is the new breed next generation bot....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if you blip the throttle, does it go away after a second, or does it smooth immediately?

Check the front mount near the clutch slave. THey like to come loose. Dont over tighten it.

4 cylinders have a natural resonance, and vibrate badly. That is why nearly all 4 cylinders have goofy big mounts.

Your aftermarket moutns could also be garbage, like they generally are for any car.
I don’t really take notes if it does smooth out when I hit hit the throttle but I know it doesn’t vibrates when the Ac is working. I think I bought the all mounts from 1AAuto. But the one between the radiator and the engine is from a Honda dealer call (Honda parts now). The mount at the radiator is not loose or any of the others.

now I got a check engine light as I was driving to work it’s for knock sensor
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don’t really take notes if it does smooth out when I hit hit the throttle but I know it doesn’t vibrates when the Ac is working. I think I bought the all mounts from 1AAuto. But the one between the radiator and the engine is from a Honda dealer call (Honda parts now). The mount at the radiator is not loose or any of the others.

now I got a check engine light as I was driving to work it’s for knock sensor
I might take the sensor from my engine and put on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,232 Posts
The D17 Knock sensor is unique to the D17's, so make sure you are using a known good one to swap out. it will require removing the intake manifold if you end up having to use a socket to remove it, versus a big enough wrench.

Do NOT use an adjustable wrench to get it out. They like to break.

It is under the #2 and #3 intake ports. You know you have the correct sensor when it is green body, and nothing is under it except blank block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The D17 Knock sensor is unique to the D17's, so make sure you are using a known good one to swap out. it will require removing the intake manifold if you end up having to use a socket to remove it, versus a big enough wrench.

Do NOT use an adjustable wrench to get it out. They like to break.

It is under the #2 and #3 intake ports. You know you have the correct sensor when it is green body, and nothing is under it except blank block.
Yeah, he engine that I swapped out is just like this one I’m using now. Yeah, I know exactly where it located above the water pipe that comes from the water pump. I might get me a 8th civic si some day with that k20 engine.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top