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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody! I need to get more ideas about this valve job and valve bowl porting! I had posted some photos in another post http://www.d-series.org/forums//showthread.php?t=56380&page=2 which people said they have not seen anybody do it like this and that is going to reduce the car power.

I just want to see if even one person approve this or not! or even one person has seen such valve cut and port! and if not what are the exact problems with this and how they will impact my engine performance so i can be firm with the guy! this is really serious since he may have just destroyed my engine head and he is saying that this is performance modification and it is different than OEM recommendation! please help me out, i am not in a good situation right now!

here are the photos:
















more photos on my other post: http://www.d-series.org/forums//showthread.php?t=56380&page=2 Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Umm your sposed to lap the valves not grind them off!
I don't even recognize those as valves anymore my god WTF did they do to them?

Dysturbed
it hasn't been lapped yet! he said he will lap later before installation! He has cut the valve seats and port inside the valve bowls!
 

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I was looking at this port job at Endyn and in my eyes it looks like mine. i am not a professional so anything may look same in my eyes! what do you think? they have done a single angle valve seat cut also!

http://theoldone.com/articles/d16a%5Fhead/
It does look similar...I dont think i'd be too worried...where exactly did you have iit ported?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It does look pretty simular. I wouldnt worry if Endyn is doing it. But i've never seen that cut before though.
i have sent and email with all my photos to Endyn. i don't have any other way to access them and get their help so i hope they can clear me up from all these doubts. hoping everything is fine. don't want to have another fight with another mechanic! :hammer:
 

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Hope you get an opinion from Larry. If anyone can tell by pictures, it must be him.
I think it's really pretty hard to tell, but he's an expert, and has worked with this stuff for decades.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hope you get an opinion from Larry. If anyone can tell by pictures, it must be him.
I think it's really pretty hard to tell, but he's an expert, and has worked with this stuff for decades.
i didn't know who i should sent the email to so i just sent to their staff AT theoldone . com! just hoping to get an answer back! but i feel a bit better after seeing their work on that D16. now mine doesn't look that strange.
 

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I posted pictures of my Endyn worked head in your other thread...
I think it's too hard to tell how that angle furthest inside is cut.
On your previous pictures it seemed like almost there was only one cut.

But things do look better in the pictures in this thread. Hope the best for you.
If you have a chance, you might take even more pictures after wiping with a rag.
Seems like there's some fluid on there? If you could get a clear close-up of the valve job itself.
Might be easier to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I posted pictures of my Endyn worked head in your other thread...
I think it's too hard to tell how that angle furthest inside is cut.
On your previous pictures it seemed like almost there was only one cut.

But things do look better in the pictures in this thread. Hope the best for you.
If you have a chance, you might take even more pictures after wiping with a rag.
Seems like there's some fluid on there? If you could get a clear close-up of the valve job itself.
Might be easier to tell.
i took this photos right after the porting when they had just washed it! the other photos were taken when head had left laying around for a few days so you can see rust in them!

i will take some new photos tonight!
 

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Try spraying some brake cleaner on the rag and wipe over it.
See if you can remove the "rust" without any problems. And wipe it dry, so it's easier to see the contoures.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Try spraying some brake cleaner on the rag and wipe over it.
See if you can remove the "rust" without any problems. And wipe it dry, so it's easier to see the contoures.
i think i would go tomorrow afternoon. i will do that then. called them just now they said they haven't recieved the block from machine shop yet! wanted to go to check the block after boring. now it s useless to go! maybe tomorrow. damn them they just postpone everything!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got an answer back from Larry from Endyn! here is what he says:

First of all, the seats in the head appear to have been lapped, netting the gray color finish.
I've attached a couple pictures to show the area I'm concerned about in your ports.
If you note, on the picture of the head I've done, the diameter of the port is considerably smaller than the inside of the 45 degree seat angle, while on your head, the port looks to be almost straight to the seat. You have to have a venturi, or taper in the port just below the 45 degree seat for good flow efficiency. You could creats some taper by using a 60 degree cut, narrowing the 45 seat ID a bit.
Same's true on the exhaust side. The inside diameter of the seat appears to to be straight, rather than radiused, which again, is important for quality air flow.
We find that the factory seat angles work extremely well in D series heads, so you should inform your head porter of this.
Pictures are not a particularly good way of examining the nuances of cylinder heads, so the only real way to determine if the head will run well is to actually put it on a flow bench.
Larry
and here are the photos:





I am really thankful for guys at Endyn, i didn't expect to get an answer from them! now i don't know if this has a solution or i have to look for a new head! :cussing:
 

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Well, that's exactly what I thought as well, only he actually knows what he's speaking about.
I guess you could ask you guy to do a 60 degree cut like Larry suggests.
If the man won't listen, you might have to take your head to someone else.
Or find a flow bench...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, that's exactly what I thought as well, only he actually knows what he's speaking about.
I guess you could ask you guy to do a 60 degree cut like Larry suggests.
If the man won't listen, you might have to take your head to someone else.
Or find a flow bench...
stupid question! what is a flow bench and how to do it? :hammer: :newbie:

i replied him back. tomorrow i will take some more photos which are nearer to angle of his photo and we can see if it is still way different or not. i got the idea and i can check tomorrow if it has smaller diameter after 45 degree or not! but still they talk about "The single angle anti-reversion intake valve seats" in their D16 port job article which i am not sure but looks like what this guy has done to my head and not like Honda recommendations.

ya he really knows what he is talking about! :TU: :bravo:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Special equipment. Probably not many, if any, of them around.
just called everywhere that i knew most of them said no such equipment in Malaysia and one place said he can do it but they will charge around 230 US$ for it! so it is out of my options!
 
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