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EJ6
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
FYI,
D16Y7
T3T04E 57 Trim
Daily Driver

I plan on changing my valve springs before the car comes out in the spring or shortly after. I will be switching from stock valve springs to race valve springs.

I believe I came across this info sometime in the past but can't remember where or maybe I dreamed it up. Any way, has anyone heard of stock valves "stretching" when using race valve springs or springs much stiffer than stock?

Also, would the stock keepers be fine with the race springs?

Any recommendation for good bang-for-the-buck springs? I am just starting to get the ball rolling on this and haven't been researching a whole lot as of yet. I've looked at the KMS springs available at FJD.

I don't plan on ever revving the car to insane rpms for a D, e.g. 9000rpm or anything like that. I would be happy to occasionally rev it to 8000rpm possibly when I'm at the strip.

thanks guys
 

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EJ6
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Discussion Starter #3
Isky springs. Just make sure you get the shims for the exhaust springs too.
Why do they need to be shimmed? Are they shorter than stock? Is this common with aftermarket valve springs?
 

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89 crx hf
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im using supertech spring you can find some decent ones for around 100$ new for just the springs and just run the stock retainers,or get the supertech ti spring and retainers for 299.99 thats what im running with my bisi cam
 

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Classic Man
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I don't plan on ever revving the car to insane rpms for a D, e.g. 9000rpm or anything like that. I would be happy to occasionally rev it to 8000rpm possibly when I'm at the strip.

thanks guys
if you can find yourself two sets of Y8 intake springs you should be ok. we spun lowball to 8200rpm on a 100% stock y8 head a LOT.

then again i suspect you will have a big cam if you are spinning that high and i cant say for sure the stock springs will take that abuse.

im using zex springs on stock retainers in my z6 (same springs that a y7 uses) and ive flirted with 10,000rpm without float.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so the rest of the stock valvetrain should be fine with the upgraded springs?
 

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EJ6
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
so what about if I plan on running a 272 regrind cam with aftermarket springs?

1.Will they need to be shimmed a lot because I know the base circle on the cam actually becomes closer to the core with a regrind cam, which basically increases the gap between cam lobe and the rocker. Will I be able to get the proper valve lash?

2. I am not sure if the 272 is a NA or turbo cam (I think it's an NA cam from the little bit of searching I've done) and am wondering as to how I will be affected if it's an NA cam. Is there anything Delta can do to reduce the overlap of the lobes?

3. If it's an NA cam would it be good to run it vs the stock cam?

4. Does anyone have any suggestions for a non-vtec cam? I would like to make 300whp with the setup listed in the first post.

p.s. The bisi turbo cam is not currently in my budget, please do not suggest it.
 

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For 300 HP you can use the stock cam if you want. I made 322 on a stock cam and ebay 57 trim (45 trim) turbo. On my new build I just installed the Delta non-vtec 272 and had no problem adjusting the lash. Brand new valves though, so that might make a little difference. Right now the top of the adjuster is flush with the top of the lock nut.
 

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Classic Man
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The iskys need the shims to give the exhaust side the correct seat pressure. People have had problems with them due to not using the shims. Plenty of people have used them with success. Stock valves and retainers should be fine.
this is only true on non vtec heads with the plugs on the rear of the heads. aka A6's B2's and B7's etc.
 

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99 Hatch
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When I adjusted the lash on my 272 I wasn't to pumped about how far the adjuster screw was out...everything worked fine but I would have liked to have had more base circle left. I would have to recommend the bisi springs as they are working really well for me now. There being used with stock valves and retainers/keepers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am not sure if the 272 is a NA or turbo cam (I think it's an NA cam from the little bit of searching I've done) and am wondering as to how I will be affected if it's an NA cam. Is there anything Delta can do to reduce the overlap of the lobes?
 

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I am not sure if the 272 is a NA or turbo cam (I think it's an NA cam from the little bit of searching I've done) and am wondering as to how I will be affected if it's an NA cam. Is there anything Delta can do to reduce the overlap of the lobes?
Why would you do that? The only time that overlap isn't a good thing is on a high backpressure set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
as far as I knew less overlap to an extent is desirable with a turbo cam. Maybe I'm wrong though. Can someone clarify?
 

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kevo... the delta 272-2 cam is what you want for turbo setup... similar to a bisi 2.4... that's what I just got done to my cam... talk to Jon (forum name - Custom Import Heads ) he will hook you up :bigok: (excellent customer service!!!)
And as far as I know, you are correct about your thinking on overlap...
turbo cams are set up with very little overlap to avoid the boosted intake charge from being scavenged by the closing exhaust valve:yes:
 

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Any boosted engine needs less overlap. Belt driven because they over scavenge with a lot of overlap and turbos because exhaust back pressure is so high they cant scavenge anyway and exhaust tends to flow back in and dilute AND heat the incoming charge.

From what I have read, stretching valves and retainers and pulling keepers through retainers does not seem to be a problem for the D and the springs you can buy for them.

What springs you need and what retainers and keepers depends on the cam and the revs. An aggressive cam with fast opening valves and high rpm requires stronger springs that a moderate cam and more conservative rpm.

Any serious performance head should be set up with the valve springs individually shimmed to cam grinders spec re as installed on the seat pressure. Springs should also be checked for coil bind and on the nose pressure if you are serious about a real race cam.

Any decent cam grinder should be able to tell you what on the seat and what spring rate his cam requires for your stated maximum RPM.

Shimming the springs has absolutely no influence on tappet adjustment as it is the length of the valve that fixes where the valve stem sits. The spring just has to hold it firm in the closed position.

Big Tuna did an excellent write up that was stickied. Search to find it and read it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
kevo... the delta 272-2 cam is what you want for turbo setup... similar to a bisi 2.4... that's what I just got done to my cam... talk to Jon (forum name - Custom Import Heads ) he will hook you up :bigok: (excellent customer service!!!)
I do not have a vtec head (Y7) so the 272-2 is not an option for me. I already have my pricing locked in, I just need to pick my cam. Yea, Jon was excellent to deal with as well.

And as far as I know, you are correct about your thinking on overlap...
turbo cams are set up with very little overlap to avoid the boosted intake charge from being scavenged by the closing exhaust valve:yes:
As far as I knew it was right. Basically from what I understood the main difference was the intake charge being under positive pressure and vacuum. Under positive pressure it will find the area of least resistance to relieve the positive pressure. In this case it is out the exhaust valve which is fully closed yet.

As far as I know, you also build boost faster because the cylinder will pressurize faster due to the valve being closed sooner and not allow the pressure to "bleed" off through the exhaust valve.

Maybe I'm wrong in my thinking but it makes sense to me.

What springs you need and what retainers and keepers depends on the cam and the revs. An aggressive cam with fast opening valves and high rpm requires stronger springs that a moderate cam and more conservative rpm.

Any serious performance head should be set up with the valve springs individually shimmed to cam grinders spec re as installed on the seat pressure. Springs should also be checked for coil bind and on the nose pressure if you are serious about a real race cam.

Any decent cam grinder should be able to tell you what on the seat and what spring rate his cam requires for your stated maximum RPM.

Shimming the springs has absolutely no influence on tappet adjustment as it is the length of the valve that fixes where the valve stem sits. The spring just has to hold it firm in the closed position.

Big Tuna did an excellent write up that was stickied. Search to find it and read it.
I don't want to rev really high. The more I think about it, the more I don't want to do it because I am not going to have a lot of money in the near future because I plan on going back to school for another degree and am probably going to be low on cash and would like to avoid additional things that could result in catastrophic failure.
 
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