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93 integra ls b18c
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guessing regrinds.

if it looks the same (excluding length) and threads in should work.

had to but a d15b2 in my friends b16, worked fine. didn't have any spares on hand and the previous idiot took it all the way out. had to get the car back running
 

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1,327 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
To go bigger than a 272 on y7 you either need custom ength valves or longer adjusters and a handful of adjusters from the junkyard is 100000x cheaper than custom valves.

If no one knows I'll just go to the junkyard and start tearing heads apart.

does the j series have mecahnica lash adjustment?
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
You could have new ones made. They shouldn't be particularly expensive or difficult to get made to spec. It's really easy modifying pre-threaded rod. You could do almost all the work yourself then have the ends hardened and precision ground at a competent shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
First crossed my mind because the z6 is a fair bit shorter than the y7 so good for z6 regrinds but what is longer than the y7?

THat's good to know all these motors use the same adjusters, I bet there is an OEM solution.

I don't even know where to begin looking into getting something ike this fabbed.
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Because it was asked, here's what I would do, if an adjuster can't be found that is satisfactory for the requirements:

1. Get a piece of threaded rod made D2 hardenable steel. This is a tool steel that can be air or oil quenched and hardens to 60-62 on the Rockwell hardness scale. It is very wear resistant, exhibits extreme toughness, and before hardened is still easy enough to work with. Failing to find a piece of threaded rod pre-made from this stuff, you can easily find a plain rod and thread it with a die. (USE TAPPING OIL when working with tool steels. Seriously!)

2. Figure out how long you want the adjuster to be. Be sure to add in a bit more length than you think you need How much? You'll have to figure that out in a later step. Leave another 3/16" to be safe.

3. Before cutting the threaded portion off, double nut the thing, put it in a vise, and carefully use a Dremel with a cut off disk to slot the top side.

4. Hacksaw the length off, with the extra length.

5. Get yourself a 1/2" thick rod or hex stock, longer than your threaded adjuster. Drill and tap it to match the thread of the adjuster. (I think it's an M8 thread, but, I am not sure.)

6. Thread the adjuster in, leaving about 3/16" above the surface of the end of the threaded block you just made.

7. Bop the end of the adjuster with a mini-sledge. Why? Making the end wider the cheap and easy way.

8. Make 15 more.

9. Heat up the very ends with an acetylene torch until they are cherry red. Let them cool.

10. Take them to a machine shop with a precision grinder and have them grind the flattened end flat or with a slight curve. I am not sure what would be better. We can discuss this.

11. Install and rock on.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
WOOT! LS is 1.18 inches! And Delta just confirmed that that is long enough for a y7 282. Awesome!
sick dude.

plus LS's are easy to find at the junker to pillage parts from!!! woot!!
 
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