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Discussion Starter #1
Google, search, and my Service Manual have all come up empty on answering my question on what Honda used to seal the baffle to the valve cover.

I'm also drawing a blank on the rivets part number; I'm fully aware that most people that R&R the baffle drill out the rivets and tap for bolts or screws, I'd still like to know if Honda has a proper procedure for R&R that includes rivets.

As for why I'm asking this, I am venting the valve cover from the rear into the valve cover baffled chamber; I will be extending the vents pickup forward inside the baffled chamber and want to reseal the stock baffle upon replacement.

Thanks in advance.
 

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No procedure on baffle service. If it was ever diagnosed as being clogged, etc. then new valve cover gets installed. There was never a practical reason to ever have to remove that baffle plate for service, which is why it gets riveted.

Even then, they aren't "rivets" per se, though the process ends up being a rivet. When those valve covers are originally cast, they are cast with skinny dowels of aluminum sticking straight up, then the baffle plate is lowered into position with gasket maker around the sealing surfaces (kind of like how head studs stick straight up, then the head gets lowered into position).

The aluminum rods that are still sticking up when the cover gets installed are pressed down by a tool that effectively mushrooms the material into a rivet head shape, which clamps the cover tight and fastens it. The process guarantees a fastener can't "fall out", as the fasteners are technically part of the valve cover.

If the baffle ever gets removed, it is pretty much up to the person removing it to figure out a good way of reinstalling it effectively. The sealant is roughly the same RTV type material as Permatex Ultra Grey Hi-Torque.

If you are reinstalling the baffle, only use Ultra Grey if the sealing surfaces are very flat, as it only works well if the tolerances between parts are very close. If not, just use Permatex Ultra Black, my favorite RTV for things that are constantly surrounded by oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No procedure on baffle service. If it was ever diagnosed as being clogged, etc. then new valve cover gets installed. There was never a practical reason to ever have to remove that baffle plate for service, which is why it gets riveted.

Even then, they aren't "rivets" per se, though the process ends up being a rivet. When those valve covers are originally cast, they are cast with skinny dowels of aluminum sticking straight up, then the baffle plate is lowered into position with gasket maker around the sealing surfaces (kind of like how head studs stick straight up, then the head gets lowered into position).

The aluminum rods that are still sticking up when the cover gets installed are pressed down by a tool that effectively mushrooms the material into a rivet head shape, which clamps the cover tight and fastens it. The process guarantees a fastener can't "fall out", as the fasteners are technically part of the valve cover.

If the baffle ever gets removed, it is pretty much up to the person removing it to figure out a good way of reinstalling it effectively. The sealant is roughly the same RTV type material as Permatex Ultra Grey Hi-Torque.

If you are reinstalling the baffle, only use Ultra Grey if the sealing surfaces are very flat, as it only works well if the tolerances between parts are very close. If not, just use Permatex Ultra Black, my favorite RTV for things that are constantly surrounded by oil.
The rivets are not cast in place dowels, at least not in the ones I have messed with in the past.

They have threads at an angle much like the flutes on a bolt extractor or spiral fluted reamer. I've removed them in the past and like so many others used bolts or screws to replace the baffle.
 

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You have my interest piqued. Of the roughly 5 valve covers I've modded and drilled out/removed that baffle plate (Z6, Y8, B16) in the past, there was no insert I could see of any kind at any point. Is there a picture of one of these inserts somewhere? The drill bit literally cut through like solid aluminum, with no left behind thread markings of any kind. Usually if I drill through something that was threaded previously, there is thread evidence still when using a bit roughly the same size as the protruding fastening material.

I honestly did Google my best for like 30 mins with keywords I'm familiar with on this subject, and couldn't find anything on this, even here on this site.

I see where people drill and tap to replace with screws/bolts, but none of an extracted insert. I really am curious now!
 
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