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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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killeen texas

save ya the wait on a response lol
 
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Time to check EVERY single nut and bolt on the front of the car around the engine and transmission.

I still find it very hard top believe the vibrations came only after a valve adjustment. What I am thinking, is it was noticed at that point, and the engine running stronger (because a valve adjustment can certainly make a big difference!), has caused whatever is creating the vibration, to be stronger.

Check alternator, check power steering pump, check AC Compressor if equipped. Check each and every mount for slop or loose bolts. Tap sideways with a hammer on the mounts to see if the weight of the engine and tranny are hiding it.

Great way to see oddball vibrations, while under hood, blip the throttle jsut barely. Try and get a good WAHP without having to hold the throttle open. You want to use that initial "inertia" to track down any noises or movement.


These can very frustrating! SO be patient. Might even be something simple, and you just might get a good laugh over it when it is found.
 

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killeen texas

save ya the wait on a response lol
I live in TX.
You can give AGN Performance a call, Eric is a smart dude and is big in Hondas. (heck, he is running one of the fastest NA K civics in the country)

He is on Veterans Memorial, up near Oriellys past that trans shop and chinese palce. If you leave out of Oreillys, hang right, go past the curve a little bit, and he is on the left, if he has not moved since 2013.
 
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He mostly was invovled in helping my old Squad leader Lanaki with his blue SI and a buddy's purple civic hatch turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I used AGN before when i was having idling issues. He changed the IACV, chared me about $200 or 300 i think and just after passing Oreiley on veterans the the check engine light came back, the same issue..
If its not the valves causing it, then why the valves keeps tighten up? Remember, after i adjusted them Saturday, it was vibrating but not as it is now,then when I'm ready to go home, there it is again..im planning on charging the connecting rod bearings, rings and main bearing as well.im just waiting on my parts to come then i take 2 days off to work on it.. The mounts are firmly in place.they are about 1year old too..this car was smooth like still burning lamp but since it had the head gasket issue and i have the shop change parts in the head, shortly after i start having issues..i hope i can overcome these issues some day or i might just changed it for k-series. Civic or accord.
 

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If its not the valves causing it, then why the valves keeps tighten up?
You are leaving out a lot of info about HOW you are adjusting the valves.. Are you always checking the clearance when cold? How are you positioning each cylinder to TDC? Are you following firing order? Also, you cant just adjust the valves cold (assuming you're doing this right), then warm it up and recheck once hot. They'll always be tighter than spec when warm. You have to let the engine always cool down to ambient temp when attempting to recheck your valve adjustments. Again to reiterate, always adjust valves cold!!!

im planning on charging the connecting rod bearings, rings and main bearing as well.im just waiting on my parts to come then i take 2 days off to work on it..
Why? Is the bottom end knocking or something? Is the engine burning oil and you've verified that it is consuming oil past the rings? If not, you will most likely rebuild the engine only to have the same problems with your "vibration" if you don't figure out whats happening BEFORE you take it all apart.

but since it had the head gasket issue and i have the shop change parts in the head, shortly after i start having issues.
After re-reading this entire thread again, you need to perform a compression check and do a cylinder leak down check to baseline the mechanical integrity of your engine. If you have no idea what i just said, you need to take it to someone who knows how to properly diagnose drivability issues. I swear it sounds like your vibration is probably a misfire, but not enough to make it seem like a completely dead hole.
 

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Timing gun handy? check base timing. Might be worth a check. Even if you have checked it before. Get the engine warmed up enouhg to kick the rad fans on a few times. Then shut down, short the service plug near the ecu, and fire it up. you want to match base timing as indicated under the hood. Depending on the year and engine, it will say 12, 14, or 16 degrees
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Timing gun handy? check base timing. Might be worth a check. Even if you have checked it before. Get the engine warmed up enouhg to kick the rad fans on a few times. Then shut down, short the service plug near the ecu, and fire it up. you want to match base timing as indicated under the hood. Depending on the year and engine, it will say 12, 14, or 16 degrees
So you saying that i must not set it to be exact on timing? If thats what you are saying, you dont think the piston and the valves will touch each other and cause serious damage?
 

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shorting the service plug means the ecu is NOT going to change the timing on you while you adjust it via the distributor. you remove the short (I use a paperclip) when you are done adjusting timing via distributor.

Its certainly NOT close. when the car is running, the ecu controls timing. BASE timing means the ecu is going off of a GOOD point, as the ecu has NO IDEA where base timing is.


This might lead to what drtalon is saying regarding sounding like a partial missfire, especially if it does not misfire everytime the same way. odd pattern, odd vibration.


Grab a few videos on youtube to watch. Good material to know!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So you saying that i must not set it to be exact on timing? If thats what you are saying, you dont think the piston and the valves will touch each other and cause serious damage?
I have a 2002 D17A2 civic ex model.
shorting the service plug means the ecu is NOT going to change the timing on you while you adjust it via the distributor. you remove the short (I use a paperclip) when you are done adjusting timing via distributor.

Its certainly NOT close. when the car is running, the ecu controls timing. BASE timing means the ecu is going off of a GOOD point, as the ecu has NO IDEA where base timing is.


This might lead to what drtalon is saying regarding sounding like a partial missfire, especially if it does not misfire everytime the same way. odd pattern, odd vibration.


Grab a few videos on youtube to watch. Good material to know!
So your topic is on a different engine..remember my engine is a 2002 D17A2 civic ex which means its coil pack,not distributer ok..
 

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well, shit. I forgot about that. COmpletely disregard everything prior then.

If it helps at all, my 2001 civic decided to kill the timing belt mount 3 months after replacement. It liked to hammer pretty good, but that was because I drive the car hard with its new clutch.

Next time you have it idling, use a screw driver or a prybar, intentionally flex the engine and trans mounts one at a time to see if it does anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
well, shit. I forgot about that. COmpletely disregard everything prior then.

If it helps at all, my 2001 civic decided to kill the timing belt mount 3 months after replacement. It liked to hammer pretty good, but that was because I drive the car hard with its new clutch.

Next time you have it idling, use a screw driver or a prybar, intentionally flex the engine and trans mounts one at a time to see if it does anything.
The front mount that holds the transmission and the engine, one of the 3 bolts not in place because one of the studs for the bolt broke off. I dont think thats what causing it to vibrate though. I'm planning on replacing it anyway. Look at the hole to the top right corner.thats the bolt that bolt to the engine.thats the one that broke off.
137279
 

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so only the mount was damaged?

This front mount can certainly play a role in vibrations, however, when mine was left loose after new clutch, I only noticed it during harder launchs. I dont think it could cause an annoying idle vibration. But perhaps your mounts are at different ages than mine.

My rear mount is newer, my timing belt side mount is newer, but the trans side and front mount are original.

I did fill the front one with 3M Window Weld form autozone, and left it sit in my garage for approx 2 weeks to fully dry and cure. Use a toothpick to poke hoels, and it seemed to dry nicely. Sure made fast shifts much more stable!!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The mounts are on there just little bit over a year now. I'm just going to install it after i get it and see if it make any difference. I strongly believe that the vibration is causing from my valves.
 
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