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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a time with my valve adjusting correctly. Can someone gives some opinion on the correct specs to use from the feeler gauge to adjust my valves.? I adjusted the valves at 0.008 intake and 0.0010 exhaust and tortured them at 14ft lb but the car keep vibrating so opened it up again and recheck them and sone was loose and some tight. I didn't make the tight when i adjusted them but they keep getting tight and loos.. Should i put them at 0.007 In and 0.009 Ex. Will that be ok..amd why they keep getting tight and loose after i torque them?
 

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Easiest way is to tackle in firing order, 1-3-4-2, and simply use a small ruler on the hump the valvecover sits over, and line it up with the cam gear teeth.

Its easy to have it ever so slightly off, then the car makes a bunch of nosie since the tension is loose on some, and too damn tight on others.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure what you talking about when you say smal ruler on the hump the valve cover sits over but i adjusted them to .007 intake and .009 Exhaust. Its idle i little smoother but still have vibration. It may go away a little. Sometime.
 

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Easier said in my head than explained.

Imagine end of valvecover, where it "humps" over the camshaft on the camgear side. The point where the valvecover gasket normally would ride. you simply line the camgear's side dashes up with that surface, and I find it easier to use a small ruler to slide out and line them up.

Camgear for 1st cylinder TDC has UP as normal, and 2x dash marks to help line up with head.

Make compass points on the cam gear, and boom, you will never be off even a tooth while setting lash on stock cam
 

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It is easier with that inner plastic gone though, but Ive found over the years that inner arrow mark that does the same exact thing, gets dirty, or has been rubbed, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So i just did my valve adjustments again because the engine was vibrating when i did them at first so try to fixe them. For such a short period of time, they got tightened enough where the .007 that i used for the intake couldn't enter under the valves on about 4 of them.. Even theough i torqued at 14ft some got loose and some got tight.. I noticed when I'm adjusting the intake side, those screws give so much trouble to adjust. When i adjusted some of the back once to my desire and draw on the nut with the screwdriver in place,they tent to get tighter/loosen Moseley the end once.and some of them just keep tightened when i draw on the locknut with the torque wrench. Do i need to change the cam lobe?
 

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Does it look like you wiped a cam lobe or a rocker arm followed pad?

You keep saying that the "engine is vibrating". All engines vibrate normally, but a misfire is another story. Do you have video or audio of what you say a "vibration" is in this case?

It sounds like you could have mechanical issues if you can't get the valves adjusted right. Have you ever adjusted valves before with success?
 

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Those are aluminum studs that you are adjusting. They have probably been way overtightened in past.

OR if you are talking about how when you tighten them, they loosen up, that is normal. Youa re technically stretching the metal. That is why its worded procedure of "tighten til drag is felt, then finish torqueing"
 

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I meant to say they "are not" aluminum studs

regardless, once they are overtorqued, they should be repalced, if that is what you feel you are dealing with
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So i went to the junkyard yesterday and got me both set of rocker arm assembly, intake and exhaust and put them in this morning. Started the car and still vibrating at first but its not bad now. After installing and do valve lash adjustments and went for a drive i realized that the burning more gas. I dont what wrong with these D-series civic.when its not one thing its the other.why its burning gas now? I have no idea.im tired of keep posting on forums about this car.i like it but i tired of headaches with it.. And yeah, i got me a vtec switch and put on its not leaking oil anymore. I would do a complete engine rebuilt if i could but at this time i cant. Any idea why its burning more gas after installing the rocker arms assembly?
 

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how do you know its burning more gas from a short drive?

Let it get to a full warmup, then blip the throttle a few times, see if it smells like its burning rich.

Could be a simply distributor adjustment away form running great.

These things tick like a fine watch when everything is great. Heck, ive seen cars lose 10-30% of their power from being out of whack.

If everything is running good and adjusted, she should purr like a kitten
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I know its burning gas because a short drive and the needle is going down so fast than normal. I dont use distributer, its a fuel injected car. Its not that smooth in idling as it still vibrates a little. I know honda ticks when idling but I'm talking about that ticking.
 

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Honda's from late 80's to literally the 6th gen civic used distributors and are fuel injected.

You're posting in the 7th gen area, so your d series was the first to receive coil on plug factory from Honda.

Are you sure your problems are related to valve adjustments? HOW do you know? I can't help but wonder what your level of technical skill is regarding diagnostics. Do you know what you're doing? Not being a dick here, I'm seriously asking.

You say you're tired of posting on the forums about this car, and that you have problems one after the other. Time to cut losses and bring it to a shop for professional diagnosis and repair?

Since you've touched it, your labor rate technically went up at other shops haha.

20201102_102103.jpg
 

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I know its burning gas because a short drive and the needle is going down so fast than normal. I dont use distributer, its a fuel injected car. Its not that smooth in idling as it still vibrates a little. I know honda ticks when idling but I'm talking about that ticking.
Even if your car got 5mpg, a short 10-20 minute drive is not going to change the fuel needle much.

Seems you are scanning for differeneces pretty hard, its a mental thing.

Vibrating at idle could be as simple as an old engine or transmission mount. the timing belt side is notorious for going soft.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My mounts are 1 year old even though they are not dealership type. The engine wasn't vibrating when i installed them either. Its the valves adjustments causing the vibration. I adjusted them yesterday and i made them a little loose and it was idling smooth with little less vibration than before and it starts vibrating like it was . someone said something about i might have other problems that might causing it..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
did the car ever not vibrate or did you buy it like this?

vibrates .. is it misfiring like it has a dead cylinder ,,

compression test?
No, it was smooth like a kitten even with all mounts were totally busted. I started having this problem after i had a blown head gasket and i took the head to shop for inspection and valve stem seals replacement, the event replaced a bent valve and after i got the head back and put everything back together,after a few months down the road i started having missed fires and i took it to the dealer to check it out,they didn't find the problem,took it to a shop and they themselves didn't find the problem and so i did some research and found someone had the same issue and it was valve adjustments he did and the misfire went away.so i did it myself since i spent over $200 on it to find the problem. The misfire went away and i have vibrations and it always vibration since i did the valve adjustments. I tried it do many times but it still vibrating and i have strong believe thats its the valves adjustments causing it to vibrate because i read on other forums where guys took their car to dealers for valve adjustments and it keeps vibrating afterwards. Any ideas that can causing the valves to keep tighten up in such a short period of time? Or any other problems that will cause it..? Someone told me it could be my rings causing the valves to keep tighten, is that possible? Any thoughts on this would help a lot.
 

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Where do you live? If you're close by, I'd come give you a hand. This is rather painful to read... I think you have more problems than just valve adjustments.... you shouldn't need to do it more than once if it's done right.
 
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