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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was reading some of the posts on Honda-tech.com, triing to find out the prblem with my MAP and V-AFC, one of the things that interested me was the fact that some prefered solering the wires over crimping the them, sayng that crimping would cause false reading for the V-AFC.

So my question is which would be better, soldering or crimping?

Thanks ahead of time.
 
G

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I had a VAFC hooked up on my old GS-R, the installation was done by crimp and the system worked good. But according to many posts on multiple boards, soldering is the way to go for the best connection, might be worth the extra time.
 
G

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the connections in a crimp are more likely to come apart over time too.
If you solder, make sure you get a good connection. Usually if the solder hardens and is shiney, then its good, but if its dull looking, it won't conduct as well. (that usually happens if you move the wires while the solder is hardening).

-Jeff
 
G

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rally25rs said:
If you solder, make sure you get a good connection. Usually if the solder hardens and is shiney, then its good, but if its dull looking, it won't conduct as well. (that usually happens if you move the wires while the solder is hardening).

-Jeff
A correctly crimped connector (peformed with a professional crimping tool like GB) will work 99% as good as a properly soldered connection 99% of the time.

What is important to consider is that it's fairly common to have a BAD soldered connection due to contamination, over/underheating, or lack of flux. Then you have a worse connection than that consistent, correctly crimped connection.

Are all the factory harnesses in your Honda soldered? No, none of them are - even the ends of the wires that go into all the connectors are all crimped. The key is doing it correctly, not how you do it.
 

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Civic CX
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4,041 Posts
if you solder the wires the right way, and when i say the right way i mean by twisting the wires together correctly, then you will have a connection that is stronger than the wire itself. i work for chrysler and repair broken wires all the time and there is no other way to do it then to solder them. i have my s-afc soldered in and it only took about 20 min to do it. don't forget to use heat shrink as well.

btw: connectors are made from aluminum wich cause resistance. since that is what a afc is doing (messing with the resistance of the map sensor signal to the ecu) why would you want to add any resistance at all?
 
G

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I wouldn't take shortcuts like that when you can spend 5 extra minutes and be SURE that you have done the job right. I make sure to solder anything with anything signifigance. YOu dont want to lose that connection :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanx for the help everyone, I soldered the wires about a week and half ago and no more MAP senser problem, I did find the my MAP input in to the V-AFC just slid right out of the connecter, so I'm guessing that was the problem. Thanx again guys.
 

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151 Posts
hmmm....
hey Diablo when does ur map cel come on?
coz mine just recently comes on all the time when I hit boost... :(
and the wires on the vafc is not soldered... so I'm thinking if that's what's causing it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The cel only came on after driving the car for awhile, when I went to take apart the wires to solder them, my MAP senser input wire(the one coming from the MAP to the VAFC) just kinda slid out, so I know it was the fact that the crimp wasn't tight. Like I said I'm not getting the cel anymore, also you say you're boosted, I've heard on Honda-Tech something about cel 3 and using the VAFC hack, do you know anything about this? Do a search over there, you might find some answers. As for the crimps, I would now highly recommand solding those.
 

· No more Honda's :-(
Civic CX
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has the CEL always come on when you go into boost or just after installing the afc? i thought that there is a trick to fool the ecu into not thinking that it is not going into boost? or maybe it was something about useing a gm map sensor that would allow the ecu to know that it was going into boost and not making the signal freak out or something? am i onto something here?
 

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well.... I've always had the VAFC b4 I got the JRSC
and the CEL comes on when I hit boost... usually when the car kicks into 4th gear... (car is auto)... ya ya I know that sucks but I got stuck with it
anywayz I've already check all the wiring of the VAFC and soldered all of them so they should be ok but the CEL is still coming back on

no the only thing I haven't checked / don't know how to check is the pressure sensor switch that's hooked up to the map sensor
the switch came with the JRSC kit and was working fine for almost 2 months until maybe 2 weeks ago

the thing with this is that I don't really know how the map sensor sees boost coz it's b4 the supercharger.... :?:
 
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