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After my one day at road course racing I was hooked but unfortunately never made it back out. I also spent some time drag racing because its cheap to go and takes less time and is still fun. that being said i really surprised myself and managed a [email protected] on a bone stock internal z6 with arp head studs and a y7 cam. I'm doubting the motor would last another summer at that power level and its only on 12 psi and 10 psi is as low as this turbo likes so I need rods at the very least.

On to the list of changes for the year starting with the highest priority

  • Better braking, calipers, fluid, pads
  • Safety stuff, roll bar, harnesses, bucket passenger seat
  • Oil cooler
  • New turbo back exhaust
  • Engine upgrades, rods and/or pistons, maybe delta regrind, supertech valves and springs, maybe adjustable cam gear
  • Get rid of the cable actuated clutch
  • Tunerview RD2 even though I dont want to support them
  • Maybe lighter wheel tire combo
  • Thermal coat my exhaust manifold

Doing my best to find some deals, would like to have it done by mothers day again this year.

On to the goods!
 

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Ive already got a good start on my brakes, got a decent deal on some of wilwoods bolt on calipers, got to drive with them on the car for about a week before I parked it, also switched over to the Motul RBF 600 fluid, now I'm working on installing an adjustable prop valve and getting a 6:1 brake pedal ratio to make the pedal easier to push.



The calipers clear my 16s, my slicks on 15s, and my slicks on 13s but they could probably use a spacer to be safe. The prop valve is mounted and tomorrow I plan on running brake lines. Wilwood recommends a 6:1 pedal ratio and then math says I should have a 13/16 master cylinder which I do, so I dropped the pivot point 5/8" and just need to finish adjusting everything accordingly.
 

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I'm trying to redo my down pipe and my front mount I made is making clearance tight for a 3" pipe if I want to keep it a v-band at the turbo, I'm using the excel pie cut calculator to figure out the cuts but I haven't done a very good job of executing it yet. If I switch to a hydro trans then this mount wont be a issue. I did pick up a pull type slave cylinder to see if I can make my cable a hydro but this thing is pretty long and making a sturdy bracket will be tricky.



Then I plan on trying the diy clutch master mount thats on the forum here and save a couple bucks.
 

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Spent a good amount of time out in the barn today and got a great start on things. Also got a great deal on a d16z6 swap out of a del sol, it has supertech valves and springs, cp 10.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, golden eagle block gaurd, gates racing belt, bbk 62mm throttle body, and a si trans. Plan is to freshen the motor, split the trans, install my carbon synchros, lsd, and new input bearing and seals.



Pulled the motor today, now I can do my brake lines, and get the clutch master cylinder mounted.



Need 2 tees so I can finish the brake lines, got the clutch master cylinder mounted, turned out pretty decent, once I get the brake pedal done I can mount the pedal assembly.
 

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I might be interest in the hydro clutch setup if the new to me CFDF isn't light enough or have the right feel. I think the current disc has a bad spring or marcel.
 

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Worked on the car a this week and a little bit this weekend, got the brake lines finished up, along with the pedals, just need to bleed them and buy my rear pads.




Got the pistons prepped and ready to install, ordered rings and a cylinder hone this week. Cleaned the block up, pulled all the head studs cleaned the threads in the block put blue loc-tite on them and re-installed. Just need bearings, rear main, and oil pan gasket.



Bad news on the trans, looks like its not a si/ex trans, didn't check it when I picked it up since it was just a added bonus to me so I need to find another trans. I need a different t-bracket and trans mount now, I feel like they could be easily made if I could find the proper dimensions. There is a guy selling a brand new hasport kit on facebook for cheap so I might try to snag them up at the end of the week.

 

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What are you planning trans wise?

Who knows what junk parts I have stashed around that are in the way....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What are you planning trans wise?

Who knows what junk parts I have stashed around that are in the way....
I want to put my lsd in it but its a 35mm case right? I also plan on swapping over my carbon synchros, would love a 4.5 final drive or I think a zc 3-4 or mfactory 3rd and zc ratio 4th. I'm really happy with my current gearing of si gears with the 4.437 FD so would like to keep it close to that.

Why can't mfactory make zc replica gears as another 3-4 option?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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They will make them, if enough people would put up the money for them to run say 20 sets.

A certain Honda race team orders 25 K series third gears in OEM ratio since stock one are no longer available. Third gear gets replaced after EVERY race weekend in the PWC/Conti Honda's.

Not sure if I hve another 40mm case, have had to replace three this offseason so far. Just bought a Timesert kit after watching Matt Em/Beav use his kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
They will make them, if enough people would put up the money for them to run say 20 sets.

A certain Honda race team orders 25 K series third gears in OEM ratio since stock one are no longer available. Third gear gets replaced after EVERY race weekend in the PWC/Conti Honda's.

Not sure if I hve another 40mm case, have had to replace three this offseason so far. Just bought a Timesert kit after watching Matt Em/Beav use his kit.
Probably can't get enough people around for that group buy. Wow why do they change them every race, worn out or just preventative? Timeserts are amazing!

I might have my hands on a si trans for 50 this week.

Edit; On another note I've been looking at trans ratios, hoping this is a dx trans so I can use the 2nd out of it. So to me the ideal ratio would be

1st 3.083
2nd 1.761
3rd 1.25
4th .909
5th .702
FD 4.5

Trans mods wont be till next year though.
 

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Some thoughts on upgrades for road racing.

Bushings. I would suggest sticking with OEM style rubber bushings. Either stock or aftermarket with a slightly harder rubber. Front lower arm, radius arm, rear trailing arm I'd look at first.

Alignment. I can't give any suggestions because I don't know how the car is set-up, but normally you want to start out neutral and make small adjustments depending on the factors at hand.

Dampers (shocks). Should be in good working order providing both compression and rebound. Not leaking, bent, etc... One bad shock can make the car difficult to control and very unpredictable.

Have fun. Always found it more enjoyable to spend 20 minutes on the track vs. 15 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2.77 (custom, we can't afford it, just dreaming)
1.722
1.259
.937
5th to match cruising needs :)
So I should hope for a cx/vx trans then, would you use still use that 2nd even though that first ratio is unrealistic? I guess I can take the 3-4 out of my cable trans to tighten it up a little bit.

Some thoughts on upgrades for road racing.

Bushings. I would suggest sticking with OEM style rubber bushings. Either stock or aftermarket with a slightly harder rubber. Front lower arm, radius arm, rear trailing arm I'd look at first.

Alignment. I can't give any suggestions because I don't know how the car is set-up, but normally you want to start out neutral and make small adjustments depending on the factors at hand.

Dampers (shocks). Should be in good working order providing both compression and rebound. Not leaking, bent, etc... One bad shock can make the car difficult to control and very unpredictable.

Have fun. Always found it more enjoyable to spend 20 minutes on the track vs. 15 seconds.
Bushings are all energy suspension and replaced about 5 years ago now at this point, they are all still in really good shape. Shocks are about 4 years old and springs are about 3. If I get rich over the summer I would like to switch to AST coilovers but they are over 3k, so koni yellows might be more likely. Last year the car was a blast on the track, nice and planted and predictable when I was driving poorly. I can't wait to get out there again and be better in every way than last year.
 

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You'd have to use a HF second then if cable trans which would be a PITA on the street, but not impossible.
 

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Bushings are all energy suspension and replaced about 5 years ago now at this point, they are all still in really good shape. Shocks are about 4 years old and springs are about 3. If I get rich over the summer I would like to switch to AST coilovers but they are over 3k, so koni yellows might be more likely. Last year the car was a blast on the track, nice and planted and predictable when I was driving poorly. I can't wait to get out there again and be better in every way than last year.
Sounds like it is pretty sorted. Koni's are a good choice.
 

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Got my hone and rings and it turns out I have a 75.5 bore not 75, didn't even think to check. Now I'm hoping I can exchange my rings for the proper size.

Hard to see but I got a fresh hone on the motor. The hone is a 320 grit.


Started to disassemble the head to clean it up internally and put on some new valve stem seals, happy to see it has supertech springs and valves in it. The head has also been ported, the only thing I dont like about it is the intake divider but I'm not going to mess with it.



Popped the trans apart today, its a dx trans, trans fluid was clean but it does have a broken shift fork. I will use this second gear in the si trans.


Bone I have a question, is the only difference between a cable and hydro fd the height of the pinion/counter shaft? Looks like you could shim the bearings up and just loc-tite the nut on to make it work? If it was that easy I feel like people would do it, I'm curious and it would be nice to find a way to use my 4.4 final from the cable trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I made some pretty good progress this weekend and through this week, picked up my new trans and it turns out it was a y8 trans in just pretty bad shape internally. The 3-4 shift fork is toast so is the slider, the 1-2 fork has some pretty heavy wear on it as well. took it apart and assembled it with the dx 2nd, cable 3-4, .702 5th. installed my carbon synchros in 1-4 and put my good hubs and sliders from the cable trans in it. Found a set of used shift forks that looked really good on ebay and bought them so hopefully that works out. The obx is such a piece with no shim or snap ring in the case I have no gap between the bearing and the case, it leaves me with .030 between the bolt head and the case so I hope it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Got the engine assembled, had to gap the rings with my new ring filer and it doesn't take much to open them up. lol Also cleaned up the head and got my new valve stem seals installed. The head has a backyard port by the looks of it but the bowl part seems pretty good. Has a nice ding in one combustion chamber so I smoothed it out and then some weird marks in one intake port in another cylinder.



Just need oil pump, water pump, some gaskets and seals. I've been thinking about a whitfield cam gear too but we will see.
 

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Relocating the fuel filter to clean up the bay and because of that I'm running a new 3/8 aluminum feed line that will come out of the old speedo cable hole. I want to patch up a lot of the holes in the firewall now too.



I started to tackle my exhaust too, I need a tighter radius for the down pipe to make it to the opening in the oil pan.


I'm planning on side exit so I dont have to worry about a sway bar clunking on the exhaust. Played with 2 tip designs and am going with the oval. I got my tip made just need to make a mounting bracket.



Also Gingerman is opening the track for just this weekend but its intermediate and advanced only, so I'm going to go and try to put some laps in anyways. lol I will probably just end up watching for a bit.
 
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