i got pulleys from AEM... 80 K miles on them... talks for it self... worth it ?!.. yeah if cheap !?.. overall wgt. is lowered by like 4 punds.. if you are lucky and have the same effect like flywheel..just like 1000/1 ...
you dont gain power.. you have what you have, you engine just spinds easyer !!.. i know this... you cant gain power from nothing.. yes your engine uses energy on spinding all kinda stuff.. but not like you can see on dyno !.. my car had 132 before pulleys and flywheel.. and 132 after...
my power steering pulley(AEM) got all chewed up one day(forgot to torque down the nut-my fault)then i just removed the entire power steering all together(which probably helped out more than the pulley with the weight reduction). so all i have on now is the alternator pulley, and i dont like it, will be going back to stock this spring. tired of seeing my lights get brighter as the engine speeds up, and dimming when i slow down. Not necessary mods IMO, but i got those when i was younger and dumber.
from Mista B.."MyblkVTEC, put your stock crank pulley back on..........or else your gonna find gold in the oilpan!"
no shit, those things(y8's) spin rod bearings an awful lot, and that pulley is not helping that issue at all. bet ya already have the gold in the oilpan, and not the good kind. hope you can get another engine at a good price, might as well go ahead and pick one up.
A year ago I would have been all over the AEM pulleys like white boys on rice parts. Even thought I don't have a stereo or things to worry about draining my alternator and I won't drive my EG in the winter, I don't like the idea of underdriving my electrical system. I don't have any formal exp with crank pulleys or the bottom end problems people have with them but if you think about it, a race engine gets rebuilt all the time. Thus the bearing failure issues, which seem to be the common problem with aftermarket crank pulleys, aren't an issue in an engine that is torn down and has its bearings replaced after a certain number of races.
If you want to free up some power, the best bang for your buck while keeping driveability and longevity of your engine (lots of crank pulley horror stories to be found out there) I would suggest saving your money, remove your power steering and buy one of the P/S removal kits that Chris S. a.k.a. Padawan from H-T sells. I'm planning to buy one for next year when I take the engine out to work on. Here's a link:
The EG kit is only $68USD plus shipping and is modest in comparison to the price of the accessory pulley, crank pulley or an entire set like Unorthodox sells. In addition to saving money, you'll save weight from the removal of the pump and resevoir and no longer have the usual parasitic drag on the engine from the pump pulley.
I dont believe the alternator pulley is that tough to turn in the first place since the shaft is on bearings and the unit itself doesn't have to move or pressurize fluid like the P/S pump. Last time I checked there was no resistance to generate electricity or conduct it
some d-series motors have the harmonic balancer in the oil pump so you shouldnt have to worry about ruining your rotating assembly with the addition of an UD pulley.. although, make sure its a quality piece and even try to have it somewhat ballanced before installing it.
Ok so I’m trying to tension the power steering pump where it needs to be and realized the car didn’t have part of the items needed to do so.
My question is what other piece do I need to complete this so it will stop squealing randomly?
Portion missing is piece that the wingnut bolt threads into...
Need a second opinion here:
I have an 89 CRX Hf that had working AC, not amazing, but it worked. I assume it was R12 as there were no converter nipples going on.
A while back someone hit let head on, broke the radiator and mangled the condenser, but didn't rupture it.
I decided since I was...