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95 hatch
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So i finally went out and bought a cat. Still failed.

Um. Cruise limit for HC : 160. . i got 160. The CO% is 1.2, i got .13 (yay)

That part i passed.

This part i didn't.

Idle limit HC: 220. i got 316 =( . . Idle limit CO%: 1.2. . I got 1.36.

I messed with my map in crome but i really only did 1krpms to 3.5k and up to half throttle because i figured i'd fail around idle.

What could i do to get my HC's down and CO%? yesterday i filled up and put a bottle of iso heat in it or whatever that stuff is, and put the cat on yesterday. Took it out for a nice 26 mile drive (freeway/highway) and came home. let it sit for a little bit then took it to get it tested

The o2 sensor is plugged in and turned on in crome, should i go out and tune it to 15 afr? i think it mighta been pretty lean at cruise because it started to heat up a bit.

Any ideas?

Edit: Oh yea, the idle screw on the TB is backed out pretty far, could that have anything to do with it?
 

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I no longer haz teh pink eye! Iz got STINK EYE
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ya make sure your cat is fully warmed up, if need to shoot a pyrometer on it and check the temp. Inlet vs outlet should want a 100degree change from back to front. Since your HC's are up and CO's is high your running rich. either too much gas or not enough air. best of luck :td:
 

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98Civic
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Hmm, high HC and high CO. Well to start things off, HC= Hydrocarbon and CO= Carbon Monoxide. Usually in that case you would want to diagnose the CO level first. A high level of CO is a result of a excessively rich afr. HC on the other hand is a result of incomplete combustion.

What is your idle afr at normal operating temp? you can try to lean it out a bit but not to lean to a point that your combustion temp would skyrocket and you'll fail for high NOx. Any recent tune up? plugs, wires, cap and rotor?
 

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I no longer haz teh pink eye! Iz got STINK EYE
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oh can you post your O2 and CO2 readings? ya james hit it right on the money, go for co first and watch out how lean you run it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just bought the cat 2 days ago and put it on yesterday. Its a used one and i got it from some random guy parting out his civic. He seemed like a decent guy.

Do you think because there's too much gas going in, its not igniting it all and thats why my HC's are up so high?

As for tune ups and such. Yea kinda. I have around 3k miles on the new wires/spark plugs. Super duper fuel injector cleaning at doctor injector, i thought they were bad. . Good insurance too.. I've only put maybe 20k on the cap and rotor too.

Lean out the idle? There's nothing on the test paper that says NOX, i've heard of it, but its not here. HC | CO | CO+CO2 | O2 | RPM. . Its idle was at 860 according to their computer, I myself don't believe it was. i think it was around 700. kinda rough.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oh can you post your O2 and CO2 readings? ya james hit it right on the money, go for co first and watch out how lean you run it.
O2+CO2 rating was 15.16. | O2 was 1.22.. . at idle.

Cruise it was at 13.83 | and 2.34.
 

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I no longer haz teh pink eye! Iz got STINK EYE
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hmm id test the cat to see if its working first. if you know someone or a shop can test it. because both O2, Co are high. CO is from Carbon Combining with one Oxygen to form CO. CO2 is carbon with more then oxygen combing with it. So rich, but then you have oxygen left over. CO is only present in a rich mixture, the CAT should break the HC and CO down to CO2 and H20 or water vapor. my guess is the cat either isnt getting hot enough or the cat isnt breaking them down correctly.
 

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warm the living shit out of the cat like 2 second before you pull into the shop and dont let it cool at all. drive it with high load, up hills, higher gear high throttle

also try heat wrapping the exhaust before the cat to keep the heat in and the cat working well

keep tuning aim for stoich at idle if this fails refer to this

SMOG/EMISSION inspections. Everything you need to know OBD1
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The cat came with a heat shield thing but i didn't put it on, do you think i should have?

thanks for that link, i think i'm too rich at idle. Also, i think my valve seals are bad and something in that link said oil contamination could cause high HC or CO?

i think they're bad because when i go down a hill and leave it in 2nd and the rpms get to like 4k then pound on the gas a puff of smoke comes out. I think those and valve guides were the only things i didn't replace when i had it all apart.

Oh and no i dont have any friends with shops or know anyone.
 

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I no longer haz teh pink eye! Iz got STINK EYE
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ya oil thats contaminated with Fuel or just Dirty old oil can cause high emissions. leaking fuel injector can cause that
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I use castrol full synthetic 5w20. Should i use something heavier? I kinda can't afford full synthetic anymore anyways = (
 

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why would you have that screw opened up on tb? should be closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Because the idle was too low so i figured that screw would turn the idle up a bit.
 

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NO, do not adjust the idle with that screw. i bet you push it back in. you pass. bet
 

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Discussion Starter #16
K i'll try that out i'll tighten the screw back in and check out my AFR's again and see where its at when its at idle.

Thanks guys
 

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98Civic
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if you pull a spark plug out you should pass though your car will run like poop and sound like a subaru haha
lol that's cheating man! you would also have to take the clip off of the injector so it won't squirt fuel.

It just means you would be running on 3cyl instead of 4cyl. One cyl out=less emission :poke:
 

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i like the 3cyl idea. LOLOL I've heard an old wise tale of pouring in a bottle of rubbing alcohol, the 50%-70% plain kind. I dont know whether it works or not, but im sure somebody up here has tried it. hahahaha
 
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