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So I bought my first EG a couple years back to learn the Honda platform. It originally had a B7 engine with what I later discovered to be an A6 head. I modded it first with the basics, I/H/E, short throw shifter; then added Skunk2 intake mani, Skunk2 70mm TB, 8lb flywheel and XTD stage 3 6 puck sprung clutch, and Demon2 board with Neptune engine management. A bit later on, I decided it needed suspension now. I went with the works; front upper and lower control arms, rear control arms, some BASIC coilovers (not the sleeved spring type), upper and lower strut bars. Ran well for a year, then I went turbo. Ordered a CXRacing full kit; .63 A/R exhaust .60 A/R turbine, 3" DP, cast mani, 38mm WG, tube and fin IC. Added some ebay 440cc injectors, omni 2.5bar map, walbro 190 fuel pump.
Car ran ok for a couple days, then the fuel pump died. Swapped to the stock pump and ordered a walbro 255 high pressure. While I took the car on a road test to see if the pump would push what I needed it to, I managed to push what I later found to be over 20 psi (as read in Neptune after I added the 2.5bar map settings), #1 piston just ate itself.


I did have a D15B but was struggling to find a good piston/rod combo to build it, so I went to the junkyard to open a few hoods and found this..


Being a salvaged engine, I knew it would need to be rebuilt. Since it was going to be boosted, I also knew I should beef it up. Went with these..

If anyone happens to order these in the future, I will let you know that I had an issue that was NOT mentioned in their description..

When I contacted Skunk2 about this, the rep told me it **MAY** have been a bad run and I can exchange them. I was then contacted by a manager saying that these rods were not meant for stock bore.. Again, this was never (and still not) mentioned on their site. Since there was so little material to be removed, I just had them machined to fit. They all weighed the same with less than 1/8 gram difference after shaving. I did not have to notch the block, but I did have to notch the girdle when I installed them.

Pistons!!


I know the NPR are cast, but much more reliable than OEM. I don't plan on going near 500whp anyways, and these should be good (from all I have read) for 450 at least.

While waiting on the shop to finish the rod shave/piston install, I decided to fit my front mount in my ridiculous front bumper..



Given that I had a B7 and the Z6 would require a P28, I had to acquire that ECU. It was gone already from the car I got the engine from, they go FAST here.. I decided the next best thing would be to convert my P06 to VTEC..
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The experienced eye will see the added components on this previously non-VTEC ecu.. For anyone that lives in an area with very few junk yards or the yards are hit really fast for certain items and in need of a P28, I recommend
going this route. I ordered the components from phearable dot net for 27 shipped and it came with instructions and all. Totally worth it

Installed bottom end; bearings, pistons, rods.. Looking near perfect!


Installed ARP head studs..


Pulled B7 out for the awesomeness..


After half a day, many beers, and LOTS of cussing, I finally got the engine and tranny dropped in. I COULD NOT get the bitch pin out of the shift linkage, so I had to assemble this in the damn engine bay. FYI, I don't recommend this method to anyone.. Even enemies..


After all was said and done, I changed out a couple items.. Boost controller that came with the kit was G A R B A G E. I bought a Hallman Pro to replace it. I also replaced the manifold to an Auto Dynasty ramhorn. My original injectors were giving tons of grief to my tuner, so I swapped those for some 750cc injectors from Aus Injection. Below is her current state..


Mod list:
Built bottom D16Z6- Skunk2 Alpha rods, NPR pistons w/Hastings rings, Clevite main and rod bearings
ARP head studs and rod bolts
CXracing turbo kit .63 A/R exhaust .60 A/R turbine (Garret 60 trim clone)
3" downpipe to catless 2.75" exhaust
Auto Dynasty stainless ramhorn T3/T4 manifold
Aus Injection 750cc injectors
Walbro 255 high pressure fuel pump
OmniPower 2.5 bar map sensor
Skunk2 Pro Series intake manifold
Skunk2 Alpha Series 70mm throttle body
3" intercooler piping
NRG engine torque damper
Innovate Motorsports LC-2 wideband
Prosport boost gauge
VTEC converted P06 ECU with Neptune RTP

RSR wheels with 195/45/15 Toyo Proxes
Completely reworked suspension

Short throw shifter (can't remember the brand, nothing major though)

Tuned by John Vega @ Phearable dot net via e-tune. Dyno check locally, initial tune net me 330whp/276tq @16 psi. Went back and made a few tweaks, walked away with 347whp/286tq @17 psi.

Next up is a head rebuild. Going with 1mm oversize exhaust valves, crower springs and titanium retainers, skunk2 valves, 59300 cam.

To be continued!! :boink:
 

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Nice looking setup. Im running a built z6 in my EK sedan. It isn't quite finished yet but it is getting there. Looks like we have a similar build. I hope to put out around that much power. I'm overbored to 75.5mm and used low comp ycp vitaras instead. And the head im using is already built minus the cam. I would be very happy around 350hp to the wheels if I can make it happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice looking setup. Im running a built z6 in my EK sedan. It isn't quite finished yet but it is getting there. Looks like we have a similar build. I hope to put out around that much power. I'm overbored to 75.5mm and used low comp ycp vitaras instead. And the head im using is already built minus the cam. I would be very happy around 350hp to the wheels if I can make it happen.
Which rods? Vitara spec, or regular? My compression is considerably higher than the standard vitara build so I'm sure this helped with the final numbers. Although my tune could still benefit from some tweaks. It was an E-tune, so very conservative on timing. There is a dyno shop about an hour and change from me but they don't work with my engine management so I'd have to bring a tuner or tune myself. After my e-tune, I purchased a couple pulls to check the numbers and only had 3 pulls to play around with. The fella that was there gave me a couple pointers for timing adjustments and fuel map tweak in the right zones to help out some. Anyhow, did what I could with the other 2 pulls. He said I still had some wiggle room with timing, but I figure I'm set with what I have now. I'd probably be around 350-355 range. When the cam goes in, I'm figuring I'll still be sub-400, but not by much.
 

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2° cam advance+18° base timing=instant woody!!!!
Pulls even harder now than it did. It will smoke the tires through 1st and chirp em good 2nd and third if I'm still in boost range when I shift.
 

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So a couple months back, my timing belt slipped and pistons contacted valves. My valves turned out fine but, ended up cracking 2 pistons. NPR turned out to be a bad piston choice despite having a good track record for cast pistons. Decided since I was going to need new pistons, I would revamp the build. I ended up with 76mm 9.0:1 CP pistons. JE proseal 76mm headgasket. Decided to rebuild the head as well; comp 59300 cam, comp 912-16 springs, Ferrea 6000 turbo valves, supertech viton valve seals, stock retainers and keepers. Removed the stock fuel filter and replaced with a Russell 40 micron in-line filter, 6-AN line, AEM fuel rail, Aeromotive 13129 adjustable regulator. Since the engine is out, the clutch was juuuuust looking like it was on the way out the door so that got replaced with an Action clutch stage 3 1ms. DNA motoring 75A motor mounts and speed daddy poly torque mounts, also 75A.
Gates timing belt, mr gasket copper exhaust gasket and felpro intake gasket. Pics later on!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Coming along nicely now! Squaring away the fuel plumbing is proving to be tricky. Only have room on the passenger side firewall where the stock filter bracket was. Makes for so.e crazy fuel line running. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
sucks bout the nprs being sucky.

engines looking good.
Thanks! Been tied up with a few household items.. I'm kicking myself in the ass right now that I didn't have the machine shop deck the head because I noticed it rocks JUSSSST a little bit from corner to corner diagonally. Sigh..
Bright side, it shouldn't take more than 30 bucks and a day to have it done..
 
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