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Discussion Starter #1
Ok...hooked up my greddy turbo kit, emanage, and wideband o2... The wideband is simulating the stock o2 sensor and also feeding the a/f gauge (it's the innovate LC-1 with 2 analog outs). I also have the RC 310cc injectors installed from the greddy kit. The engine is a y7 with a y8 mani.

The first thing I'm a little concerned about is that it's running way rich... I don't have the support tool for the emanage, so I'm currently only working with the stock adjustment points. My setting at 2000 and below is at -12%, and it's still running on the rich side. The next settings are -10, -8, -3, -3 in 1000rpm increments. it's still rich across the board, but I think I'm getting closer. According to the wideband, it doesn't get any leaner than about 12.5 afr. I'm wondering if it's normal to have the injector settings backed down this far, or if I have some other emanage setting wrong... (no error codes from the emanage, though)

Also, since it's not tuned correctly yet, it bogs really bad at WOT around 4000rpm. I've backed down the fuel and it keeps getting better. The only problem is that once it bogs, the afr immediately goes to about 9.2-9.5 and won't lean up until I restart the car... I'm not sure why it does this, but any thoughts would be great...

One more thing...my plugs are NGK BKR7E's...and I'm wondering if these might actually be too cold...???

Thanks for the help, and sorry for such a long post!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just an update...

I turned down fuel again across the board... Seems like it's getting better...but it just seems like I'm having to turn it down a lot...and this being my first time with tuning, I just hope I don't have a jumper wrong or something... The bogging around 4000rpm is more of a violent jerking...I can control it by not going to wot. I guess it just needs some more tweaking to get it right... I'll do some more tomorrow and post what happens...
 
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heres my recomendation. 1: get the support tool, that'll let you figure out what is actually going on (i dunno how indepth but better than what you're suggesting) 2: get it tuned professionally no one can stress how important a good tune is, just an example my friend had all this work done to his wrx, was only gettin 8 mpg, ran a 13.7 quarter, got a good protune, none of that basemap shit, now he averages 28 mpg and runs around a 13.01 with a stock clutch (he needs a new one) i dunno if this helped you at all but its always story time with Vash.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, I'm looking into getting the support tool...I'll probably order it this weekend... I am now getting a CEL, so I'll check that out after work... The problem is now only appearing after the engine is warmed up and has a couple hard 0-60 runs in it. What I'm guessing is that once the piping gets heatsoaked, the intake temp goes way up, which throws off the mixture. I think this would probably be solved by my intercooler, which I don't have the correct pipe bends for...another thing I'm ordering this weekend...

I would take it to a pro tuner, but I want to learn to tune it myself so I don't have to rely on other people to do it for me. From what I've done so far, I'm right at about 27 mpg or so, all highway ~75-80mph, don't know 1/4 yet, but that'll come in the next few weeks... Once I get my ic on, things should start to smooth out a bit...
 

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Im thinking it is a problem with that you are using e-manage with a Y7, i called greddy cuz i have a friend that wanted to do that and they said that e-manage wouldn't work properly on a Y7. Im not sure why if it is only in Vtec range that it screws up or where, but they said it wouldn't work. Check on that too would be my suggestion.
 

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inspector01 said:
Im thinking it is a problem with that you are using e-manage with a Y7, i called greddy cuz i have a friend that wanted to do that and they said that e-manage wouldn't work properly on a Y7. Im not sure why if it is only in Vtec range that it screws up or where, but they said it wouldn't work. Check on that too would be my suggestion.
Yea, it might be that its dumping fuel for Vtec and since you dont need that extra fuel it could be causing the bogging problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hmmm...that was my initial thought... When I first set it up, I was getting a vtec signal error, but I changed a couple jumpers, and the error went away. It does make a lot of sense, though, because it's happening right about where vtec would engage. I'll try changing the vtec setting on it to see if that makes any difference at all. I'll keep trying to back the fuel way down, too, to see if I can get it any better... If not, I think I may start looking into something else...obd1/chrome or the like...I was going to spend money on the support tool and an obd2 monitoring system anyway... I'm leaving work in a few and will make some changes for my ride home and post later with my results...
 
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check your plug gappings if your plugsa re gapepd to big, you could be blowing the spark off the plugs. Try gapping them to liek .028
 
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I have to change plugs every 500 miles - 100 miles on my new motor. my cap and rotor every 2000 miles.

it coudl be you jsut need to step up your maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, checked my plugs...

#1, the gap was larger than .030. I reset them all to .028

#2, when I went to pull them off, it felt like the plugs didn't seem to hold their torque. I re-torqued to spec 156 in-lbs.

Checked my codes, and here's what I got...

0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit high input
0135 - Primary heated O2 sensor heater circuit fault
0141 - Secondary heated O2 sensor heater circuit fault

After I changed the gaps on the plugs, it seemed to run better. It's still hesitating a bit right around 4000rpm, but it isn't jerking like it was, it's more of just a real sluggish, too rich feeling. What I'm thinking now, though, is that I might have a dip switch or rotory setting wrong on the emanage. Does anybody know what the correct rotory settings are? The emanage manual says 2-8-A, which is what I have mine set at, but is different than what it came set at. Thanks everybody for the help so far!
 
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do you not have a missing link to keep your map sensor from seeing boost? or is the E-manage properly setup? you may want to consdier spending the $ and take it to a nice shop and have it professionally tuned. Tweaking is one thing, but full tuning is something differnet. that coudl also be part of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
do you not have a missing link to keep your map sensor from seeing boost?
confused as to what this is...

I will try a different map setting on the emanage to see if that changes anything. There are two map rotory settings that supposedly work, according to the emanage group. The settings are 2-8-A and 2-8-B. Mine is set at 2-8-A, so I will try the other.
 
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