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Discussion Starter #1
ok I am having a really weird problem, I start my car cold and is runs perfectly and it drives perfectly full boost, no overheating, it drives on the highway perfectly sometimes 140+ km. All of this for about 20-40 minutes then the troubles start. 1. it does not want to idle it changes every light some times it will some times it won't. 2. it seems to have no/ or significantly less power. 3. when I am driving it will show it is running at operating temp but if I turn it off for 1-3 minutes then turn it back on it is above half 4. when the troubles start if I open my window and listen I hear a fluttering sound only when I push the gas. 5. it will drive at operating temp then all of a sudden say I go to pass somebody after I look at my temp and it is almost in the red. does anybody know what could be going wrong.

my setup is: D16z6 bone stock with 175,000km when I got it now at 180,000
about 1000km turbod
.42/.48 vovlo turbo
450cc DSM injectors
SSA CRAP manifold that has a 3/4 inch crack on the 4th cylinder right at the flange on the head
FMIC with 2.5 piping in and out
2.5 exhaust
innovative LC-1 wideband
street tune to about 11.5 - 13 A/F
10 inch slim fan 1200cfm not installed yet

I am about to order a 1.25 inch aluminum rad and ARP headstuds you think those will help me?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
yes there is blotches of oil in the overflow. will ARP head studs help the problem then I get a new head gasket? any suggestions on new ones?

also correct me if I am wrong but I am able to get a d16y8 head gasket for my d16z6, they are the same gasket but the y8 is cheaper.
 

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FAMILY MEMBER #316
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and you can use 2 y8 gaskets and lower the compression a lil too. thats from what ive read but i may be wrong. search is your friend. arp's are always recommended.
 

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run a stock z6 headgasket from "HONDA".DO NOT RUN A GASKET FROM ANYWHERE BUT A HONDA DEALERSHIP.As far arp head studs go for it head is already off and easy to install and will also keep you from lifting your head during boost. Stock studs often cause your head to left due to high compression.
 

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the hard-parker
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^i would suggest this to, or at least have them check to make sure it's within specs. get a new headgasket, and yes arp's are definitely suggested. might as well do it right when you've got the chance
 

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the hard-parker
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cross reference the part number on arp's website. should be correct though
 

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Its good to know ur compression when performing a compression check butta that dosn't relli tell u that its accurate becuase if u have carbon build up in your cylinder you well get a higher number than spec, follow the compression test up by a leak down test to find out if its actually holding pressure and ur pistons rings are holding, head removal and detail cleaning is sugested.
 

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Its good to know ur compression when performing a compression check butta that dosn't relli tell u that its accurate becuase if u have carbon build up in your cylinder you well get a higher number than spec, follow the compression test up by a leak down test to find out if its actually holding pressure and ur pistons rings are holding, head removal and detail cleaning is sugested.
What you are looking for with the compression test is 1 or 2 cylinders that are WAY low. When I blew my headgasket the compression was #1-175, #2-170, #3-20,#4-35. When I got the head off you could see where the gasket had blown out between #3 and #4.
 

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to just give a different opinion.... and believe me, the above posts are correct but in a "LAST RESORT" fix.

i had the exact same problem on my A6 mini-me pushing 16psi. but when i looked for many hours thinking of what else could it be.... because it would only happen under HARD boost, and stop and go traffic.... i was concerned w/ how close the manifold and turbo were sitting to the radiator (1 inch away)

so, insted of pullin the head and doin the gasket (i have ARP's) i thought that the radiator was getting too hot cause of the placement of my setup.

i did a compression and it was 185 across all 4

Since i had a FMIC that was obstructing the airflow of the radiator, i got a pusher fan and put it between the FMIC and the radiator, and hav'nt had a problem w/ overheating in 1 1/2 years.

try it.... if it dont work, atleast u got a pusher fan for your setup!
Dr.Mike
 
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