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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok first off the car is a 2000 CX with a Greddy turbo, mani, dp, 450cc DSMs cleaned and flow matched, 225lph fp, and a chrome base map in a P29. The company that chipped it Pherable told me the base map would be good enough to drive the car around town until I can get it tuned. The thing is that I have to drive like a race car driver. In 1,2 and 3 under 2,500 rpms the car will jerk like crazy. I thought that maybe it was because my 2nd O2 sensor was not hooked up but I thought that I wouldnt need 2 with the OBD1 ECU? Could it be timing? Or could it just be the fuel map for the low end rpm range? I am just lost. Thanks in advance for any help.

EDIT: CEL is on but how do you check it once you convert to OBD1? My plug in will not work anymore.
 

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ok i have jerking problems before what kinda clutch do u have i know my act didnt like to be under about 1500 if i was it would jerk. and i have run a basemap from them there good basemaps. im not really sure about checking your codes but im pretty sure someone will chime in
 

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nonvtak ftw
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OBD1 doesnt look for the 2nd 02. you check the engine light by looking for the 2 prong socket on your passenger side right by your ecu. insert a paper clip turn the ket to the run position and count the flash's
 

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www.rifftrax.com
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it is most likely running too lean under 2500 rpms.

you need to get it tuned, there is no basemap that is good enough to drive around town. a basemap is to get you to a tuner, nothing more. if you're not planning to get tuned anytime soon, then at least get yourself a wideband and do your own street tune.
 

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umm phearable is better then that... he isnt going to be running lean at 2500 rpm's because of the tune lol.. and honestly on my last set-up, there basemap just had to be tweaked it was soo good... but anyway, im not telling you to drive around on a basemap, (which has such conservative timing it isnt funny) and then richen it up a little bit. any way, unless you check your codes, we wont have a clue... i bet youll be throwing a iacv code though... using a obd1 ecu, you have to change your 3 wire iacv to a 2 wire, and wire it up correctly which is very easy.
 

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Well that would have been nice to know....before I sold my Y8 5speed manifold setup...
you can still use your old one... the 3 wire one, just cut the orange wire on the plug, leave it be... go to phearable.net, and look under the tech section, for switching one wire around on the ecu...

does your car idle like shit too? like up and down sometimes?
 

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wont have to change the manifold... your just need to rewire your existing 3 wire plug... they work the same exact way, just mounted in different locations
 

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IACv missing, esp without stock components running the car, would surely cause it to buck like all hell.

its not missing, he changed to an obd1 ecu, which has different pin-out locations for the iacv so he has to cut the orange wire, and repin one of the other wires on the ecu
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did that with no luck, still runs like described. Are you 100% you can just convert your stock 3wire sensor to a 2 wire?
 

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On the passenger side of your car, under the dash beneath the glove box, you will find a green cover above the kickpanel that houses a blue connector that has two wires.

That you need to do is turn the ignition off, and using the piece of wire or paperclip, jump the blue connector so that you connect the two wires together. Basically stick one end of the paperclip or peice of wire into one prong on the connector and stick the other end of the paperclip or wire into the other prong.

Once you have done this, turn the key to the IGN position and watch your CEL light. It will illuminate in a series of flashes.

You will notice that there will be LONG flashes and SHORT flashes. All of the ECU trouble codes are two-digits. LONG flashes determine the TENS digit by the number of times it flashes, and SHORT flashes determine the ONES digit by the number of times it flashes.

ie. LONG-LONG-LONG-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-PAUSE

...is the trouble code: 34

3 LONG flashes followed by 4 short flashes, then a long pause. If that is the only code the ECU is throwing, then the code will simply repeat until you remove the key. If, however there are more than one ECU error code, then you will see a different series of flashes followed by the long pause. Once all the ECU codes have been displayed, they will continuously cycle until you remove the key.

ie. LONG-LONG-SHORT-PAUSE-LONG-LONG-LONG-LONG-SHORT-SHORT-SHORT-PAUSE

...is the trouble code: 21 and 43

Once you have determined the codes, you can simply remove the paperclip or wire from the connector and replace it back in the green housing.

So now you have the codes, what good are the numbers? What do they mean? Refer to the CEL TROUBLE CODES section.
 
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