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Discussion Starter #1
i believe i first torqued mine to 60ft/lbs, drove it then torqued them to 70 ft/lbs.

ive seen some setups with them torqued at 90 ft/lbs

what do you guys have them at?
 

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05 Legacy GT
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I went to 70ftlbs pushing 35psi.

I continue to retorque the nuts until none of them move. It may take as many as 4 times after about 10 heat cycles.

That's drive the car 10 times let it cool over night after each drive, then retorque the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
awesome thanks guys
 

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The torque specs for ARP studs are designed so that the stress in the stud is 75% of its yield strength. Assuming a linear relationship with the torque spec being 60 lb-ft, the studs will deform plastically at 80 lb-ft.
For those who haven't taken a materials course, a stud that has been plastically deformed may as well be a paperweight.

If used, it will eventually break the same way a paper clip breaks if you bend it back and forth over and over...

Or at least you won't get the clamping force you'd expect.
 

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Yea the ARP lub. Make sure you get all the air out of the threads.

I run the stud in until it stops, wait a few and run it in some more, wait a few, repeat until there bottomed. Then back them out 1/2 a turn.

For some reason B series don't need to be re torqued. A lot of with single cams have learned the hard way.
 

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arp moly lube that is included with them.
thats what arp reccomends, so thats what i use.

i torqued mine to 65 ft lbs and never re-torqued...and never had an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
arp moly lube that is included with them.
same here, also i remember letting the air escape. havent had any hg issues just curious because sometime in the next few months id like to build another z6 head, mill it a bunch to get my vitara motor into the ~8.0:1-8.2:1 area instead of this 7.5:1 i have going on here.

also accompinied with a port job, springs, retainers, 59300 cam, and a port match IM and new tb should make for a nice power gain.

oops back on topic...
 

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90' CRX SI
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so when it tells you to only screw the studs in by hand... you just put them in until you cant turn them no more? im in the process of doing this... ive never used ARP's before so its new to me
 

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Yes by hand. if you use a allen wrench to help turn them, be careful not to go to tight. Like I said above I' have been told to back them up about 1/2 turn. That came from one of the experts from a few years back. I continue to do that with engines I put together.
 
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