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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. I have my d16t running this year its at 200 hp right now at around 15 psi. Iv been having trouble with coolant bubbling into the overflow and sometimes spraying out.

Iv done a bunch of research on this subject already.

I took my thermostat out and tested it. Seemed not to be opening fully. I changed that and did a coolant flush and it wasnt much better, but still a little better.

Iv tried an oem covic rad cap and another one i had lying around i think it was b series. Neither fit (i have a go autoworks slim rad)

Does anyone know of a rad cap thatll replace this?

Iv also done a compression test and got 150 across all cylinders. I know this doesnt nessesarily mean that the head gasket is ok but i dont have leak down equipment.

There is no white smoke or loss of performance. The car runs great and pulls hard.

What is everybodys thoughts? Only thing i can think of is loose headstuds?

Also i will add that the car doesnt overheat (did slightly after a 300km drive but only about 3/4 up the gauge for a short period of time)
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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Head gasket, you are pushing coolant out the overflow from block pressure. Get some ARP studs and a Y8 head gasket and check make sure you are not getting any spark knock and rock on.
 

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94 Civic Cx
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Its headlift you can retorqued your head to see if it stops for a few pulls to confirm it also dont use non oem thermostats. They suck dick and will fail, its safer not to run a thermostat that a pos stant.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess retorquing is the only option i have left before changing a headgasket...which i really dont wanna do.

Thermostat is oem with honda coolant. Anything like that i always go oem. Theres also no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil if that means anything.
 

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EG Hatch
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Complete speculation... doubt it actually happens as I've never read anything about it..

If the impeller on the coolant pump is spinning too fast (like at high RPM) it could cause cavitation and thus cause huge spikes in coolant pressure... But like I said I've never heard of this actually happening in a car..
 

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94 Civic Cx
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Thats good. Less mess for later. You probably have a spot on the outer edge of the head gasket that is allowing air to travel in. Kinda like a vaccum leak but in the cooling system
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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you can buy a tester chemical you can put in your coolant that changes color if there's any combustion products in it before you start changing gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter #9
you can buy a tester chemical you can put in your coolant that changes color if there's any combustion products in it before you start changing gaskets
Can you actually? Any more info/ where to get it? I dont even know what to search for that.

I would be all over that. I reeeaallyy dont wanna change my head gasket
 

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I guess retorquing is the only option i have left before changing a headgasket...which i really dont wanna do.

Thermostat is oem with honda coolant. Anything like that i always go oem. Theres also no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil if that means anything.
dont re torque it will do nothing but stretch your headbolts more.
Just grab a new headgasket and new arp and slap them on. Trust me on that one Ive already been through it.

But the best thing to do is take the entire head and block out and get them resurfaced machined flat then redo what I said in the beginning
ohh and check the tune you are probably running too much timing or shitty gas
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well i just meant retorque them and make sure they are at the right ft lbs. not just torque them to 300 ft lbs haha.

If they are already good then ill replace the HG :/
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Its funny you say that. Its a d16y8 with a stage one comp/zex cam but the cam is for a z6.

Im running a y8 distributor and my tuner cant get the timing to match up. Its like the distributor cant go far enough. My tuner tried to describe it to me but its hard for me to wrap my head around it (thats why im paying for a good tuner). Iv been doing a ton of reading before posting up about it here.

You think thats got something to do with it? He told me a d15b7 dizzy might work and iv been trying to find one/research on that too.
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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You popped the headgasket from poor tuning practices.

Get a new one. Have the head and block checked for flatness. Put it back together. Tell your tuner to get a )(#*(*$ clue before he sends you out the door.

Given what you describe a safe bet will be to pull 5* of timing nearly everywhere towards the boost map and into the positive side.

You might also want to drain your oil through a strainer and check for sparkly bits of your bearings, as you likely have been beating them to death. I would schedule a time for getting a spare block built ASAP, because you may have already done irreparable harm to the engine.
 

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You popped the headgasket from poor tuning practices.

Get a new one. Have the head and block checked for flatness. Put it back together. Tell your tuner to get a )(#*(*$ clue before he sends you out the door.

Given what you describe a safe bet will be to pull 5* of timing nearly everywhere towards the boost map and into the positive side.

You might also want to drain your oil through a strainer and check for sparkly bits of your bearings, as you likely have been beating them to death. I would schedule a time for getting a spare block built ASAP, because you may have already done irreparable harm to the engine.
this is the truth right here I forgot that with so much detonation to lift the head you probably have fucked rod bearings. Its not something you want to ignore.
 

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You popped the headgasket from poor tuning practices
This is my suggestion.

If he modified timing and doesn't have a professional type knock detector or dyno, this is the exact reason.

Your symptoms and story line up 100% with being too much timing.

OP: was it street tune or a dyno tune?

If dyno, please, post up the graph.

If street, how many sets of spark plugs did you go through during the tuning process?


Professional tuners who have a clue, won't touch timing anywhere above conservative amounts unless the client was informed of the possible reprecussions, amd he had the proper equipment.

Most non-professional tuners don't understand the flame front dynamics in respect to compression and quench design of each individual motor.
 

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Im running a y8 distributor and my tuner cant get the timing to match up. Its like the distributor cant go far enough.

He told me a d15b7 dizzy might work
My tuners got more than a clue. Thanks.
If I were a tuner, I wouldn't even let your car out of my shop boosting 1psi if I "couldn't get the timing to match up". If I heard that from a tuner and they still wanted to tune my car, I would be slapping that dumbass and would never go back.

I feel bad for you and your car, I used to have a guy that claimed he was a great tuner street tune my car, ended up with a blown headgasket from headlift... Then it started overheating. I walked away from him and never went back. Best decision for the car I have ever made.
 

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I've done this to 4 engines of my own. Knowing I would be chancing it when I did it.
The first one was when I swapped from a z6 head to a y5 head and didnt pull timing.
Others were pushing the limits of non intercooled designs and teaching myself the sounds/responses of knock on different knock sensing devices.

The only customers vehicle it happened to was because he asked me specifically to try and get the most i can out of his engine (after already being briefed several times what could happen). He just wanted to win a few specific races and needed just that little bit more. Grudges are funny matchups. It still lasted him 20k+ miles after a new hg and new studs on an LS with high boost on a larger turbo and 91octane.

I can usually tell when a customers vehicle isn't times on the cam correctly, usually about 2/3 the way through the low speed afr tuning. You see fuel values spike up in the low load area.

I have 32+* timing on my N/A gsr engine. All tuned in the proper places and done slowly on rollers initially to get it dialed in, then adjuated on the street. 43mpg fwy, shitty mileagedriving hard.... and it railed harder than my fixed up turbo-d. About 3/4 to 1 sec faster in 1/4 ish mile straight strip of road leading to my house. A passenger stopwatched both engines from pass seat.
I spent 32 man houra tuning the timing on that motor.
 
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