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ek9 hatch, ej6 coupe
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The tune portion you are speaking of for your car is not a tune. That is a basemap which is just used to get you to the tuner, NOT A TUNE. What kinda afr are you running at wot? Im not busting ur balls but trying to help cuz ur car can "run fine" but still be lean or rich. Also, RICH is horrible, quite honestly uber rich is waaaay worse than lean and causes even higher egts than being lean. Being rich will also wash your rings so that portion of the thread is going to misinform a noob and could cost someone a motor. An egt gauge will also tell u if your timing needs adjustment. Ur afr can be dead on but egts dangerously high. Lastly, do not put your afr gauge in a test pipe. You will not get an accurate reading. It needs to be around 10" downstream from the turbo on the downpipe. This stuff is very elementary and quite frankly common sense mostly.

P.s. Phearable.net and xenocron are the top runners in basemaps. I've seen this diytuning guy on eBay but there's no real support behind his basemaps like the two listed above.
 

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Things NO ONE told me about installing a TURBO

These are things NO ONE ever told me about getting/installing a turbo. Now that I have boosted my 93 civic eg6, D15B7 these things are SO obvious, but when I didn’t know about it, I was all over the internet looking for answers. I found a lot of help here in the forums. I figure I gather up all the little/obvious things NO ONE ever told me, so I can help someone else as well. Human nature is to be helpful. So here it goes in no particular order.


YOU NEED TO CLOCK YOUR TURBO HOUSING FOR PROPER INSTALL
- Yeah I didn’t know that! It so obvious to me know and to a lot of people reading this, but there are a lot of people who do not know this and I was one of them! I was cooking my turbo in oil like french fries @ Burger King!. You just have to loosen up the housing so you can have your oil feed line at 12o clock and your oil return line at 6 o clock. Mine was at 9 and 3 o clock, (thanks to this guy know help me install my turbo and ‘knew all about turbos’). The oil is suppose to just “pass by and say hello” to the turbo not sit there for it to cook like fries in an oil pan. I did not know that.

YOU NEED TO HAVE 2 STEP COLDER SPARK PLUGS (NGK BKR7E)
- The reason is pretty much to prevent denotation aka blow up you engine aka say bye bye to your car. What is 2 step colder spark plugs? Is just spark plugs that are on a different heat range so your car doesn’t run so hot! It will run cooler like a glass with ice water (aaah). To step down on plugs just look at the NGK number. Just add the number UP so you can have a colder plug (excuse me?). For instance my civic oem spark plug is a ZFR5F-11.
So I just add the 5+1 = 6 (tomorrow we’ll do colors) so My one step colder plug is ZFR6F-11. Easy right. My 2 step colder plug will be 5+2=7 which will be?? …very good !!…ZFR7F-11. But guess what? There’s no such thing as ZFR7F-11 !! NICE!!
Now what? Simple just get this NGK spark plug… BKR7E . This is the official 2 step colder spark plug for a civic turbo!!! Thanks for telling me !!. I did not know that!. And another thing…NGK –11 just means is pre gap to .44 so do not get BKR7E-11 , just get regular BKR7E. And don’t worry about the gap? OMG the gap! How much .28 .30 .32 .44 .99. The smaller the better, but don’t stress it .32 -.35 is ok. Just get this NGK spark BKR7E.


HOW TO CONNECT YOUR OIL FEED LINE (USE 2 LINES INSTEAD OF ONE)
- Your oil feed line in general goes from the little hole where the oil sensor pressure is, to your turbo. You just use a T so you can T off from the motor and split it one for the OEM oil sensor and one for your turbo oil feed line. But guess what?? DO NOT T OFF RIGHT FROM THE MOTOR. WHY? Because the T will break off (because is too heavy) and you will be stuck with a broken T fitting inside your motor! Wanna fix that! I don’t think so. Soooo, all you gotta do is get TWO oil feed lines.(lets say to 2 feet each) One goes from the motor, THEN yout T it off there, you but your Oil pressure sensor and then you continue with the other oil feed line to the turbo. This way the weight of the T fitting is OFF the motor and just dangling between the two oil feed lines. If it breaks you just have to replace the oil feed line which is like $10 on ebay. And It will be most likely on the top part of the engine bay for easy access (not behind the motor where you can’t even see it)


MAKE SURE YOU SUPER DUPER TIGHT ALL YOUR CLAMPS
- When installing your intercooler and all those pipes that go from the turbo all the way back up to your throttle body, make sure you SUPER DUPER tighten up your clamps. WHY? Because you want to make sure you do not have any Boost leaks! What is that? That just means you do not want air escaping through the rubber couplers that you use to connect the pipes together. That’s all. Just tighten them up, after you finish. Eat a sandwich, then go back and tighten some more, then talk on the cell phone, then tighten up some more. The reason why, if you later have any issues with your car stalling, or not boosting right or not running right or whatever, you will now in your conscious that it’s definitely not a boost leak from the piping because you remember tighten then up , eating a sandwich and tighten them up some more, and talking on your cell, and tighten them some more! That will alleviate any further issues when trouble shooting your car, You don’t want to have to take off the bumper AGAIN to retighten a coupler (loser).


WHICH 3 GAUGES DO I REALLY NEED(BOOST, OIL PRESSURE, AIR TO FUEL)
I spend a whole day looking for this. Well I summarized it for you. To look cool with your 3 gauge pilar, you need the following

-Boost gauge that way you know, when you are boosting, how much you are boosting and when you are vacuuming aka driving normal like a N/A car. ($20 dollar one is fine)

-Oil pressure sensor, so you have peace of mind that you still have oil in your engine while driving. Because with a turbo car, you can have little leaking now from the oil pan, from the turbo, from the oil feed line, from your glove compartment from your stereo, from anywhere. So this will let you know you if you still have oil in your motor and your safe and sound. By the way there are two types of oil pressure sensors, mechanical and electrical! Which one? Easy! Electrical. It comes with a sensor you just connect to your oil feed line and run the little wire to your gauge. The mechanical one is a tube that literally runs the oil to your gauge so it can measure the oil pressure! You don’t want hot oil running back and forth 2 feet from your face! ($20-30 dollar one is fine)

-Air fuel ratio gauge (no one told me about this one, thanks!) This one is like the important one. It basically lest you know if you are running lean (very bad) or rich (very good). Remember You always want to be rich not poor. Rich, Rich. Lean = denotation aka bye bye car aka your car is hot aka it’s gonna through a fit aka is gonna die. Rich is what you wanna be in the turbo world and in life in general. Rich = running cool (aaahh), running smooth, running good, aka your car feels like frosted flakes! (Grrrreat)
With this gauge you can always make sure when you are racing or running your car hard it does not go on the lean side 16+ on the gauge, you always want to stay 15 and less, 14, 13, 12 11, get it? Less = Rich (excuse me!) With this gauge you can always make sure the tune that you got, is okay. With this gauge you can tune your car (duh), or better yet your tuner can tune your car. It basically connects to your exhaust (it has an o2 sensor). So you gonna need to drill a hole on your exhaust to plug it in, or get a test pipe form eBay that cost $20 and you can connect it to that (it already comes with a hole for the o2 sensor)
Get the AEM WIDEBAND Air/fuel gauge is like $125.


WHICH MOTOR OIL FOR TURBO (10W-30)
- I used to use 5W-30 on my NA D15B7, Now I have to use 10W-30. Why? Because is thicker and thicker is better. That way the oil does not heat up so fast. And remember your car wants to be cool like a glass of ice water (aaah!).That’s the short answer. The long answer you can google it.


FUEL INJECTORS (MIN. 400cc)
- I though I was able to use the OEM fuel injectors (240cc), NOT! Thanks for telling me! The reason why is this. You can use your OEM (240cc) injectors BUT they will be always running HARD. Like spraying at it’s most capacity. So if you do not that constantly they can break and damage. It’s like a skinny buddy of yours helps you move out. He can help you take out the refrigerator alright. But he is going to work hard, sweat and stress out. But if you get a tough big buddy of yours, he’ll do it, but it will be so much easier for him and wont get stress. So you want your fuel injectors to run nice and cool and not stressed out all the time. Bigger guy for a bigger job, get it?
Any brand 400cc minimum.


ECU/TUNED (GET BOTH)
- You need a ‘chipped’ ECU and get the car ‘tuned’. Chipped ECU is so you can be able to run programs like Crome or Hondata or whatever to ‘tune’ (program your car) to run right. Now you also need to tune it. This issue is a biggie. You have to tune it or your car might die aka run lean aka it will get hot and die. Soooo, you have to get it tuned.
Street tuned? Dyno Tuned? Looney Tunes? Which one? Is up to you, but Street tune is like $200-300 and a guy drives with you around the streets with a laptop. A dyno tune is $400-$600 and they do it on the machine.


continuation...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
.......continuation

Once again my descriptions are simple for noobs to understand, if you want the technical reason there's always google. I'm not google and I don't want to get all into it because sometimes information overload makes it harder to understand . I just wanted someone to explain to me in easy terms so I could've understand .....no one never did that, so that's why I'm writing this.


MODIFY PCV SYSTEM (TAKE OFF PCV VALVE)

This is to make sure there is not a lot of pressure inside your motor when you boost. Is to sort of relieve pressure when you boost because the engine can't take the extra pressure like when an "expert" on the forums throws a fit when a noob is right lol. Anyways, how do you modify it? Easy...you need a catch can with a little air filter on the top. The catch can has two hoses. You connect one hose from the catch can to the valve cover port(that's the port that went from the valve cover to your short ram intake tube remember?) Ok now there is a 'blackbox' under the intake manifold that has a hose that connects back into the intake manifold with a PCV valve in the middle. You have to remove that hose and PVC valve and basically NOT use it aka remove it aka put it in the same box labeled 'memories' where you have your old short ram intake and 421 headers lol. Dont forget to plug the little hole where that hose was connected to on the intake manifold. soooo, the OTHER hose just goes from the catch can to the 'black box' that is under the intake manifold and thats it! I actually got this info in this very same post, so thank you guy. He just didn't tell me about plugging the hole in the intake manifold once you take off the hose.


WHERE TO CONNECT THE HOSES FOR THE DAM BOV AND BOOST GAUGE

This one I spent like day(s) looking for this info SMH. Put in on the brake booster line, no on the fuel regulator line, no you might have problems starting the car, no you don't! Yes! No put it in the brake booster instead....no cause this guy had sponge bob square pants brake pedal after that and he couldnt brake right! get a manifold and run all your hoses to it... huh? What? Who ? Sponge bob brake pedal? Lol
I didn't want to tap into the brake booster line or fuel pressure regulator because I didn't want to manipulate those to systems. Turbo is all about the 'Air intake system of the car' fuel system and brake system, I don't want to mess up. Get it? Anyways in general you can connect the BOV and BOOST gauge to one of the hoses on the intake manifold. On my d15b7, I chose this little hose that is on the back bottom right part of the intake manifold right on the corner. I T off from there and connected both the BOV and boost gauge. Don't ask me what that hose is cause I don't know lol. I just know it works and is simple and you not messing with your braking system(that is more important in my opinion). Anyways people say is not good to share the same source for the BOV and Boost gauge , but is also not good to go swimming right after eating cause you might throw up. Haven't thrown up yet , haven't had an issue with my BOV or boost gauge.


So hopefully any of this helps SOMEONE out there, knowledge is power and sharing is caring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
why did you make so many threads? and all this has been covered before in another thread. Mostly like a stickly already
I hit F5 and it posted it several times. Sorry. I'm trying to delete the other ones, how do I do it LOL
 

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ek9 hatch, ej6 coupe
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There's alot of misinformation here. A basemap is what u got on eBay is NOT A TUNE just used to get u to a tuner. Also running rich is worse than running lean and will cause high egts and can wash your rings. Rich does not equal good guys. Its not a richer the better type thing. You don't put an afr gauge in a test pipe it won't give accurate readings. U want it about 10" downstream on your downpipe from the turbo. An egg gauge is very important cuz ur afr can be dead on but timing off and causes dangerously high egts.
 

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Why did you go back and take out the tune portion u got off eBay(the basemap you are running as a full tune) i just put in my post that you had up ?
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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I hit F5 and it posted it several times. Sorry. I'm trying to delete the other ones, how do I do it LOL
im pretty sure you didnt hit f5 and have it post 3 times, all 3 threads have a different title how does that work?
 

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ek9 hatch, ej6 coupe
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Thread is full of misinformation as I stated in the 3rd post. Delete all the threads please. Misinformation leads noobs on the wrong path from the start, not a good idea...
 

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Things NO ONE told me about installing a TURBO

These are things NO ONE ever told me about getting/installing a turbo. Now that I have boosted my 93 civic eg6, D15B7 these things are SO obvious, but when I didn’t know about it, I was all over the internet looking for answers. I found a lot of help here in the forums. I figure I gather up all the little/obvious things NO ONE ever told me, so I can help someone else as well. Human nature is to be helpful. So here it goes in no particular order.

We probably should have warned him !

How come nobody was holding his hand...I'm outraged!
 

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MuthaFuckaUppa
2009 Civic Si Sedan
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Four threads of shit that you can find by searching either here or else where.
 

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Thread is full of misinformation as I stated in the 3rd post. Delete all the threads please. Misinformation leads noobs on the wrong path from the start, not a good idea...
Your post number 5 is on that list
 
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