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Discussion Starter #1
So guys I have a 89 Ef with the B2. Never had a issue out of her with 180 on clock. She started missfiring otw to work one morning so I got to work parked it for the day and the rest is history. Would not crank for anything after that. I threw new plugs,cap/rotor,2 dizzys,3 ecu's,2 injectors finally got it to run for a min or 2 and the whole time it's high revd and dumping smoke out the exhaust and seemed like there was an oily/fuel mixture soaking the pavement. Keep in mind this been over a year ago so my memory is a little faded but she's still sitting in the shop now. Well I'm wanting to get it back up and going. I do not wanna do a crazy swap or anything actually I really wanted to just buy a reman B2 in obd0 to drop back in plug n play since I don't have very much free time to do anything extensive since I work out of town/state 90% of the year and it's gonna be my little commute car again. So really my question would be what do y'all think the easiest option to pursue. Striping it down and doing full rebuild then converting later on to mpfi. Which would be the easiest d series to drop in since obviously you cannot find a decent B2 that's plug and play under $1500 hell I'm seeing them high as $2700. Why?!
 

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check
mechanical timing
compression
leakdown
coolant system pressure check
fuel pressure


did you get new plug wires?
 

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Once mechanical and ignition timing is verified to be good, check all the ground wires.

-battery NEG to chassis
-transmission to chassis
-engine harness ground on thermostat housing
-make sure valvecover ground to headlight support is there, but generally not an important ground.


Also be sure it is getting actual proper fuel pressure.



As far as engine fitment, you can simply use a 92-95 DX/LX block and head (d15b7) since it is the same engine with fuel injection
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes plug wires were changed at the time I was throwing parts at it while it was sitting in the lot at work. I know all grounds are good,my plugs were drenched in oil when I pulled them out so I threw on a new valve cover grommet set also. 1st shop said low compression I don't remember which cylinders. But 2nd shop was a Honda specialist place and they had no clue so I drug it out there shop free of charge
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If my memory serves me right it was throwing all these codes at 1 time some at the same time then 1 would go away then would have a different... Code 8 TDC (timing was said to be good) code 15 Ignition( did alot of research at the time,that's why I threw diff Dizzys and ECU'S at it) and the code 16 for Injector
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm sorry it'll crank all day till the battery is dead may act like it's gonna fire at times but won't. I've had it actually fire a time or 2 but it high revs like a sob and pours smoke. Coolant and oil looks like it should. Replaced MAP also
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I took it to a shop and had exhaust put on I think 2.5" past the cat and a day or so after that is when it went down,dunno if it goes along with doing that just seems odd. I drive this car all over the us not a lick of probs or sign therefore then all of a sudden she's dead
 

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I'm sorry it'll crank all day till the battery is dead may act like it's gonna fire at times but won't. I've had it actually fire a time or 2 but it high revs like a sob and pours smoke. Coolant and oil looks like it should. Replaced MAP also
Reason for replacing the MAP?

What gas were you using? Cheap gas like Speedway?

Did the camshaft start to seize from oil issues and spin the cam gear resulting in a cam timing issue with the high revs and such?

IMHO if all the wiring is OK and not rotted like most 88-91 does, get a D15B7 from a 92-95, convert to MPFI/A6 ECU and enjoy the extra 15 hp and way better mpg.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Just replaced the map only cause of some things I read I threads at the time. And it was regular grade here in Tx. About any oil issues idk man, I kept up with my regular service work after I bought it from the original owner and never dogged the car. Just odd to me at 180k the motor would be bad. This car is solid as hell beside the small surface rust you see.It's sounding to me like I'm gonna have to do a swap and convert over to multiport(which needs to be done anyway) but then what about the obdo? Is there a harness to switch to obd1 for the engine your saying. Also thought about rebuilding this 1. Rebuild kit is say $300 at best. Does it need to go to the machine shop and what would they do diff. Plan on doing a new clutch also
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
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Your not listening. You are randomly picking parts to through at it. Almost everything you listed that you have changed wouldn't have helped your issue.

And if your motor has compression and correct timing a rebuild would do nothing for your problem.

Sounds to me like the timing belt is off. And if it doesn't run, how are you getting those codes.

Also the only time I had a motor that throw codes likes you are saying. It did run buy like shit and the issue was coolant running down the wiring harness and into the ecu causing all kinds of very odd issues.
 

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remove valve cover.

grab 19mm and long extension, manually turn motor over (counter-clockwise)

Watch camshaft.

Put camgear timing marker "UP" in the up position, with the side markers of the gear matching the cylinder head surface.

Now wiggle cyl #1 rockers. Are they snug? are they properly loose?


Find a guide on valve lash adjustment, and simply follow the rotation, merely checking to make sure things are properly loose and NOT pressing down on a valve spring with each cylinder (order 1-3-4-2)


Start from there.


Emptying your wallet is the wrong way to solve a car problem.

Check ALL basics, EVEN IF YOU ALREADY HAVE.

Make a checklist of what you do and need to do. GO DOWN THE LIST.


These cars are simple as holy hell to work on. Do not overthink it. Have a cold beer while doing it if you must.

Its always something small and uncommon when it comes to a shit load of parts not fixing a honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Only reason I was throwing the parts I did at it was because after all the research I did online with people having same or similar issues that's what they done to fix it . The ECU would flash as you were trying to start it. 1st shop I took it to said had low compression on a couple cylinders. I wasn't sold on that, finally was able to trailer it 5hrs back home cause I work out of town and left it with a shop that specializes in Honda's. Obviously they didn't kno to much either cause they were clueless. They did say if I'm remembering right something along the lines of either the primary or secondary injector wasn't pulsing like it should when they suggested a ECU. Little to late to do any test now I've started tearing it apart
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As far as a coolant leak, I've never noticed anything being wet, and I changed ecus wouldn't you think it would crank
 

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The parts you swapped out actually help to rule out quite a few things so, like others have said, I’d take a step back and go to the basics. Check mechanical timing and compression. A cylinder leakage tester is far more useful than a compression tester but parts stores don’t usually rent those out.

A compression test will at least help you see if one of the cylinders is dead. Don’t get too caught up on the individual pressure numbers for each cylinder, just make sure they’re all within 10% or so of each other.
 
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