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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First a description of my setup:

95cx hatchback chassis
Ground Control sleeves w/Eibach springs (340 front/250 rear) and Koni Sport Yellow shocks
Team Dynamics 15 x 6.5 rims [offset 38] wrapped in Yokohama 205/50 S. Drive tires
94-01 Integra front/rear lower control arms
94-01 Integra GSR anti-sway bars
Hard Race rear toe/camber kits
Hard Race front camber kit
Hard Race bushings all around EXCEPT the anti-sway bars which are Energy Suspension bushings

There are two problems that have persisted since I installed this system:

1) I have a metal on metal clank in my front passenger area that doesn't seem to rely on any situation other than vibration. It can happen (or not happen) when I'm coming to a stop, accelerating/decelerating around a corner or on a straight road/gravel/mud, etc. Sometimes it's a simple tap and sometimes it's loud enough to make me flinch. It happens 0-60mph. I don't believe it's ever happened on the freeway.

The wheel bearing was recently replaced (not due to wear but because the mechanic had to replace my wheel studs and it was the same cost for labor) so that's not a possibility.

The only ball joint that hasn't been replaced is on the steering rod and there is still no play after zeroing out the toe.

I've gone over every inch of the suspension and can't find any wear. Performance has always been excellent, except when the rear anti-sway bar mounting bolts (to the chassis) mysteriously disappeared--replaced and it went back to normal-awesome status.

Possibilities?


2) The second problem is a bit more of a wildcard. Simply put, my tires are shredding up the inner fenders on turns, drops, etc. The sleeve collars are maxed out, camber is -2 front and back. Toe is zeroed out. I can't even drop the stiffness on my shocks or it will bend my fenders...again. I need to have another talk with Ground Control, but it looks like I'll have to get taller springs to solve this problem. All I need is maybe another inch and I shouldn't have any more problems.

Suggestions?

I know it's a long read but I'm trying to cover all the bases.
 

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The clank......I have no idea. I had one of those in the back after installing a new sway bar, bushings, coilovers, etc. but it has gone away after the coilovers broke in .

The rubbing of your tires on the inner wall sounds like you just need a longer traveling shock. I know the Koni/ GC set-up pretty well after my friend used them on his Spec Miata. Its different for every car, but the nice thing is that Koni will work with you on finding that perfect spring rate, clearance, whatever it might be for your ride. Good luck!
 

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is your sway bar endlink in good condition? they can clunk when worn out
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah the endlinks are good. I bought brand new stock integra parts to replace the parts that Energy Suspension didn't provide in their anti-sway bar bushing kit.

I kept a close eye on them because I thought perhaps the front sway bar was knocking somewhere...that and I couldn't properly torque them on installation (along with compliance bushings).

I need to take a good look at my calipers, rebuilt them a while back...and the only discrepancy from the instructions in the manual was using the same type of grease for all the caliper piston seals... I had the master cylinder replaced recently and ever since then my brakes have worked very well, no fluctuation in the reservoir either.

There are a couple reasons to suspect the calipers:

One, I had to recently make an emergency braking maneuver (downshift and heavy braking to avoid a kid and his dog standing in the middle of a country road) and my right front tire locked up.

Two, the noise sometimes happens when I'm coming to a stop, just as I let off the brake. It could be weight shift or it could be nothing but I always second-guess my work.

The rubbing of your tires on the inner wall sounds like you just need a longer traveling shock. I know the Koni/ GC set-up pretty well after my friend used them on his Spec Miata. Its different for every car, but the nice thing is that Koni will work with you on finding that perfect spring rate, clearance, whatever it might be for your ride. Good luck!
The tires are rubbing on the upper fender/splashguard, not the inner wall...if by inner wall you mean towards the engine. I'll check with Ground Control about the shocks, since I bought the kit (sleeves, springs, and shocks) from them...though if I hit a dead end like last time I may have to talk to Koni. Wouldn't I need taller springs if it won't go any higher with the current set?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One problem solved.

I got in touch with Ground Control this morning...found out the sleeve threads can be moved up the housing as well. This should give me the extra inch and then some. I'll have to disassemble the whole damn thing again...but at least I can finally run my konis soft if I want.
 

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i had kinda the same clunking noise with my car, check the brake caliper the mounting bolts might be loose
 

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One problem solved.

I got in touch with Ground Control this morning...found out the sleeve threads can be moved up the housing as well. This should give me the extra inch and then some. I'll have to disassemble the whole damn thing again...but at least I can finally run my konis soft if I want.
Which problem did this solve because I'm having a similar issue with my GC's and my inner fender wells. I've raised my springs as high as I possibly can but it still seems low as hell in the front. I'm using EF front forks because the struts I'm using are from an EF. How do you move the sleeve threads up on the housing? I'm wondering if the EF struts are shorter than EG/DC ones and that could be causing my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I haven't been able to work on my car yet, too damn cold and I don't have access to an enclosed space. When I spoke to the rep, he said there is a snap ring on the bottom of the sleeve threads and multiple indentations on the shock housing that it can be placed.

I couldn't say whether it would have anything to do with EF struts, no experience.



@Drummer87 Thanks bro, I'll check em'.
 

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I'm wondering if the EF struts are shorter than EG/DC ones and that could be causing my issue.

yep. You got it, not sure of the exact diffrence but I would say about an inch or two
 
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areoflux: you mentioned that you are raised up pretty far on the GC's so I imagine this may not be an issue but, are your springs preloded any at full droop or "free".
 

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yep. You got it, not sure of the exact diffrence but I would say about an inch or two
I did get ahold of KYB and they said that it was due to this. The EF struts are about 1-1.5'' shorter than EG/DC ones. Also, the springs I got with my kit are 7" springs when I need 8" springs. So this should solve my issue. Also, sorry to threadjack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
areoflux: you mentioned that you are raised up pretty far on the GC's so I imagine this may not be an issue but, are your springs preloded any at full droop or "free".
The springs are preloaded, had to be to get the collars to the top of the thread...could that be the source of the noise? Maybe the spring isn't "settled"?

I did get ahold of KYB and they said that it was due to this. The EF struts are about 1-1.5'' shorter than EG/DC ones. Also, the springs I got with my kit are 7" springs when I need 8" springs. So this should solve my issue. Also, sorry to threadjack.
Now worries bro, this is how it should be. If the problem is similar or has something to do with the parts involved then it's cool in my book. Less threads, better info. I just wish we could mark threads with a solution flag or something similar. The search engine turns up more "use the friggin search engine" threads than solutions now. :3dtard:
 

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^^^ I know what you mean about the searching thing. I wish there were solution threads as well. Good luck with your issue. I think my rubbing issues are from being way too low. Because from what I found out from GC and KYB there is about 2-2.5'' that I could lift the car back up with the proper parts. Right now I can barely stick my shoes under my front splash gaurds.

How low are you right now? This could be your rubbing issue as well.
 

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If the springs are not preloaded at all I would say that it's a possibility they may be coming "unsettled" in full droop situations and then them re-seating would make some noise.

Another possibility is if the springs are compressed too much they may be touching eachother on full compression.

This kind of problem can be hard to diagnose, I have a similar issue with my dad's element.
 

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I know its obvious, but I don't think you mentioned it already. Shock mounting bolts tight ? the ones in the tower and the bottom of the fork ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Update: I haven't been able to get my car on stands until last week. The 195 50 tires pretty much solved any rubbing issue, tested VERY thoroughly. I found that my Energy anti-sway bar bushings were dry as a bone...I'll have to check them every month or so from now on. Handling characteristics changed dramatically when I lubed them up with some sil-glyde (no oversteer snap in cornering).

The clunk is still there and has spread to the driver side as well...perplexing really, in the same area, sometimes feels like it's just below the floorboard where the compensator bushings are.

It could be that:

  • Hard race bushings aren't as good as they should be (in which case I got every stock bushing but the compensator bushing to replace them with).

  • There are some bolts in the Integra lower control arms that aren't the same diameter (I used the stock bolts as they were in the best condition).

  • The steering rods/rack and pinion system have something wrong going on...the ball joints are in good condition every time I check them, no play whatsoever...but the alignment guy did say he had to eek every last bit of adjustment out of them to get my tires to zero out for toe.

  • The Hard Race roll-center adjusters are unnecessary and are screwing up my actual geometry.

  • I installed something wrong...I am a newb...first time touching the suspension EVER. So, yeah, could just be me.

The clunk can happen at just about any time, it seems to happen most while turning at speeds under 30mph; when the car reaches roughly 60mph it never happens...leads me to believe the down force on the suspension compresses whatever is clunk-ing. My drive shafts are from autozone and under warranty, but I've had bad drive shafts before--I know what it sounds like...this is far louder and more random.

I'll be taking some pictures of the entire suspension this week...update the thread, and if anyone sees something out of place, please let me know.

PS: To reply to Tronsteez (my apologies), all bolts have been checked repeatedly and torqued to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Pictures of Suspension (56k=instant death)

This is my suspension in as many useful angles as I could think of. If you see something installed incorrectly, speak up!

How she sits on near level ground:






Passenger Side:




 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)








Driver Side Rear:



...holy shit...didn't even notice the divot in the bushing housing on the A arm (Driver side)...that could be a problem. :sweatdrop: I put all these pics through a batch processor in photoshop and never saw that before...hmm...makes me wonder if the other side is similar but screwed up on a side I can't see unless I unbolt it...which is exactly what I'm going to do once the rest of these pics are up. :3dtard:

Edit: That could be a zip tie...checking...
Edit2: Yeah it is...dammit...so anxious to find a problem I make a mirage out of it.
 
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