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Discussion Starter #1
Recently been having an issue with my civic. I'll be driving along fine for maybe 1/2 hour and the car with start running strange. Afrs will become leaner through the entire rpm range, car won't idle, loose all throttle response and power, and get a slight misfire. The car also throws a code 20 (Electrical load Detection). Often when this problem starts, the cel will turn off and then back on again for a second. If I shut the car off for 3-4 mins the problem goes away but starts again in about a half hour. Any idea what my issue could be or how I can go about troubleshooting the problem?

Thanks!
Nick
 

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The ELD is in your fuse block.

If its failing, you basically need to replace it.

It wont self fix, it will only continue to get worse.
 

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which one? under the dash or hood?
Its huried insde the under hood fusebox. Removee completely, open up, black dingleberry, 3 pin plug, with a metal plate passing thru it.

Few models there have an external ELD, but its not common.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, going to change out the fuse box, I'll let you know if it works out.
 

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If you download the factory manual, it has an excellent flowchart for dagnosing that code... might save you some effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think the troubleshoot guide would probably be my best bet. Wouldn't the fact that the car is running bad indicate there is an electrical overload not nessesarily a bad eld sensor? So in my opinion changing the fuse box wouldn't fix this, or is it possible the fuse box is causing this issue?
 

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Did you check the #15 fuse and read the TSB?
 

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The eld's function:
To increase idle rpm as electrical load on the alternator increases or decreases.
Thats why I blamed the ELD. Does not sound like it is functioning properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Tried a different ELD today, check engine light is still on. Didn't drive the car long enough for it to start breaking down though. Fuse #15 is ok as well.
 

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I had a similar problem with my civic but it would run ruff and finally cut off . I checked all kinds of stuff, ignition switch, coil, igniter , main relay,and finally tracked it down to a bad ecu.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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My crx came with the ELD wire at the ECU cut. The code stays stored but it doesnt make the engine light come on. Worked both ways before and after OBD1 conversion. Engine runs fine......
 

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Check the TPS connector and wiring. I had a connector get water in it making poor contact causing the same issue you are having. Not sure what code I got but it acted the same. Fixed the connector and it ran fine ever after.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the input guys. I'm thinking my Ecu is probably bad. There is always a clicking sound coming from the computer whenever it starts acting up. I think I'll try unpligging/replugging in all sensors and cleaning all grounds, if the problem still occurs then ill transfer my s300 to a newer p06.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey guys, I've been busy recently but had a chance to do some work on the car, so I have tried:

New ELD
New ECU
New MAP sensor

Also, I did some unplugging and plugging and got the ELD code to go away so that obviously isn't the cause of the issue, or the items listed above. The car has started overheating the last few times I have been out which amplifies the issue significantly. Maybe my car is running a bit to hot and that's what's starting these issues and I should try a new thermostat, any other ideas?

Thanks!
 

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Hey guys, I've been busy recently but had a chance to do some work on the car, so I have tried:

New ELD
New ECU
New MAP sensor

any other ideas?

Thanks!
How about troubleshoot the system instead of guessing and randomly replacing parts.
 
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