Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here i got these 2 codes on my 02 D17A2 civic. First code came up about a week after i finish working on the engine is the p1505 shows pcv valve air leakage and there are no vacuum leak anywhere, my pcv valve is new. I know it could be air in the cooling system causing the p1505 code because i read posts with people having the same issue. I bled the system and the p1505 code went away and came back a week later with this other code p0325 shows know sensor (bank 1 no signal) i also know that the cooling system can cause the know sensor to come on as well if the air the system is too much. I bled it this morning for about an hour but not be able to get that light off like before after bleeding the system the light went off. Any suggestions on this would help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
P1505 is IACV code. It is mounted on the throttlebody. Easiest way to inspect or deal with it is to remove the throttlebody and give everything a good cleaning with carb cleaner. NO BRAKE CLEANER!!

P0325 is the knock sensor code. It is mounted on the back of the engine, under the intkae manifold flange. Single 12mm bolt holds it down, and the wire clip shoots left towards the timing belt, and the clip is snapped intoa holder. If the clip is tough to remove, the holding bracket is held by a 10mm bolt almost level with the kncok sensor, but about 3 inches towards the timing belt.



(been building my D17 engine, fresh in my memory)



Clear the codes after cleaning the throttlebdoy and IACV. I highly recommend cleaning with the throttblebody OFF the car, as the D17 intake style will trap a lot of carb cleaner, and make the car run rough for a while. The D17 doesnt have enough snort behind it to actually suck it out of the intake manifold and clean itself quickly.


Knock sensors are rare to go bad, so I would simply remove it, clean the mounting surface of where it bolts to, inspect the sensor itself for any cracks, and simply re-install
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
P1505 is IACV code. It is mounted on the throttlebody. Easiest way to inspect or deal with it is to remove the throttlebody and give everything a good cleaning with carb cleaner. NO BRAKE CLEANER!!

P0325 is the knock sensor code. It is mounted on the back of the engine, under the intkae manifold flange. Single 12mm bolt holds it down, and the wire clip shoots left towards the timing belt, and the clip is snapped intoa holder. If the clip is tough to remove, the holding bracket is held by a 10mm bolt almost level with the kncok sensor, but about 3 inches towards the timing belt.



(been building my D17 engine, fresh in my memory)



Clear the codes after cleaning the throttlebdoy and IACV. I highly recommend cleaning with the throttblebody OFF the car, as the D17 intake style will trap a lot of carb cleaner, and make the car run rough for a while. The D17 doesnt have enough snort behind it to actually suck it out of the intake manifold and clean itself quickly.


Knock sensors are rare to go bad, so I would simply remove it, clean the mounting surface of where it bolts to, inspect the sensor itself for any cracks, and simply re-install
So to let you know that i know all the parts that i mentioned and so because i took this whole engine apart twice now.. I replaced the piston rings over 2 weeks ago and after a week of working on it thats when i starts to get these codes..remove the know sensor too because i was cleaning the block. The idle air control valve is brand new from the dealer so that shouldn't be the problem. And the p1505 code said pcv valve air leakage, not IACV.the throttle body is clean
P1505 is IACV code. It is mounted on the throttlebody. Easiest way to inspect or deal with it is to remove the throttlebody and give everything a good cleaning with carb cleaner. NO BRAKE CLEANER!!

P0325 is the knock sensor code. It is mounted on the back of the engine, under the intkae manifold flange. Single 12mm bolt holds it down, and the wire clip shoots left towards the timing belt, and the clip is snapped intoa holder. If the clip is tough to remove, the holding bracket is held by a 10mm bolt almost level with the kncok sensor, but about 3 inches towards the timing belt.



(been building my D17 engine, fresh in my memory)



Clear the codes after cleaning the throttlebdoy and IACV. I highly recommend cleaning with the throttblebody OFF the car, as the D17 intake style will trap a lot of carb cleaner, and make the car run rough for a while. The D17 doesnt have enough snort behind it to actually suck it out of the intake manifold and clean itself quickly.


Knock sensors are rare to go bad, so I would simply remove it, clean the mounting surface of where it bolts to, inspect the sensor itself for any cracks, and simply re-install
My video with the issues that I'm having with Rpm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
I dont see a video.

and the P1505 is apparently set for honda as PCV. OBD2 generically, seems to be idle control. goddamn it.

anyways. if you had the block apart, did you clean the breather lid and cavity on the backside of the block?

The D17 I just finished building was completely and utterly clogged with schmoo at only 170k miles, a good indicator that coolant got into the oil system, and/or the car saw several hundred short trips without full engine warm up.

PCV valve is easy to clean, and cheap to replace if it does not clean up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok.not sure if you read my post all the way through. I state that the pcv valve was brand new from the dealer and the iacv as well. Not sure you what you call breather lid is known as the EGR valve passage on the intake manifold. If thats what you are talking, i clean that piece of metal spotless. The code p1505 is literally a air trouble code. Sometimes if air in the coolant it will give that code i think.i erased the code but the rpm still not acting right. It stays up longer than it should before it drop to normal.
 

·
Registered
93 Civic HB SI
Joined
·
989 Posts
P1505 definition is honestly a bad fault description, a much better description would have been "small vacuum leak".

I've seen anything from a leaking EVAP purge valve, to your brake booster, to a tiny intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak, a vac hose with a small crack in it, stuck open PCV valve, throttle body cable not loose enough causing TB plate to not shut all the way, cause this fault code.

I'd be here all day describing all the ways you could possibly be getting small uncontrolled air leakage.

The point is, you have a source of uncontrolled air leaking into the intake somewhere.

This fault code sets because ECM is returning the idle air control valve to its default idle closed position, but RPM is still too high. It is having to shut the valve all the way to get idle RPM in control (why the RPM drops so suddenly from about 1500 to 700 in your video).

This indicates a small air leak of some kind, any kind. You have enough air leaking somewhere to keep your engine running at 5-700rpm, this leak should be pretty quick to find.

You just have to find the source of uncontrolled air. Finding it takes experience and a game plan. There are techniques to help, none that can effectively be described via a forum post though. If you were closer, I'd help, but I asked this before you rebuilt the engine the first time, and you were too far.


I will state that rebuilding the engine again will not fix this....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
Ok.not sure if you read my post all the way through. I state that the pcv valve was brand new from the dealer and the iacv as well. Not sure you what you call breather lid is known as the EGR valve passage on the intake manifold. If thats what you are talking, i clean that piece of metal spotless. The code p1505 is literally a air trouble code. Sometimes if air in the coolant it will give that code i think.i erased the code but the rpm still not acting right. It stays up longer than it should before it drop to normal.

If you replaced the PCV valve, you would know it is screwed into the breather LID. has 8-9 10mm bolts holding the lid to the block. The block has a cavity cast into it.

it is NOT the EGR plate.

My spider senses are starting to tingle........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
I lied. 6 bolts.



For those wondering on other projects, if you find the far right upper bolt on the PCV cover, the hole to the right is the oil pressure location, and the dead hole above near head gasket surface is where the knock sensor mounts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: slo_eg8

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
P1505 definition is honestly a bad fault description, a much better description would have been "small vacuum leak".

I've seen anything from a leaking EVAP purge valve, to your brake booster, to a tiny intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak, a vac hose with a small crack in it, stuck open PCV valve, throttle body cable not loose enough causing TB plate to not shut all the way, cause this fault code.

I'd be here all day describing all the ways you could possibly be getting small uncontrolled air leakage.

The point is, you have a source of uncontrolled air leaking into the intake somewhere.

This fault code sets because ECM is returning the idle air control valve to its default idle closed position, but RPM is still too high. It is having to shut the valve all the way to get idle RPM in control (why the RPM drops so suddenly from about 1500 to 700 in your video).

This indicates a small air leak of some kind, any kind. You have enough air leaking somewhere to keep your engine running at 5-700rpm, this leak should be pretty quick to find.

You just have to find the source of uncontrolled air. Finding it takes experience and a game plan. There are techniques to help, none that can effectively be described via a forum post though. If you were closer, I'd help, but I asked this before you rebuilt the engine the first time, and you were too far.


I will state that rebuilding the engine again will not fix this....
Ok. I got you..so i wasn't planning on rebuilding it anyway..i think the book shows where the rpm should be from 750-800 range..if you see the video it shows how the rpm stay up too long before it drops.. I will have to take it to a shop to have it check out bro..i just be so picky on whom or where should i take my car to. I got screwed over twice. The last time i almost got into an accident after leaking the shop i took my car to find a leak, they didn't fi d the leak, i found it. They moved the break booster hose for the test that they did and didn't put it back, when i drove off and ready to brake at the stop light, i didn't have no brake whatsoever, when i reached home and pap the hood, there is my brake booster hose unplugged and i called them and ask them about it and they talking all kinda shit to me about they didn't move the it so i just stay away from them. Is only one guy i know thats good on hondas and he be so busy with cars, he told me it would take me a week to have it check out and i cant be walking back and forth to both jobs i have but i might have to do something to get thinks check out on it..i love my car so i try to mend every problem as they occur asap. I wish i experience as you are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
what happens when you unplug the IACV while it is idling?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
unplugging it is literally the test to see if you have vacuum leaks. If everything works perfectly, it should be trying to idle around 400-500 rpms. If it idles perfectly fine and is anywhere above 550-600 rpms, you have a vacuum leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
unplugging it is literally the test to see if you have vacuum leaks. If everything works perfectly, it should be trying to idle around 400-500 rpms. If it idles perfectly fine and is anywhere above 550-600 rpms, you have a vacuum leak.
I just unplugged it and it make a little different when idling. Like it would when you unplugged the coil pack .i put my hand over the throttle body and it stalled out, i squeezed the booster hose and it mae no different, i squeezed the pcv valve hose and it did the dame thing when i put my hand over the throttle body..im doing a idle relearn now because i unplugged the iacv and the ecu fuse. So this what i found just i mentioned earlier about the rpm idle range. Idle when the engine is warm with no load is 750 +/- 50 rpm for American models. 720 +/- 50 rpm for Canadian Models.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
it should not be a little difference. It should darn near stall out and idle very low.

BUT if it stalled out when you covered the throttlebody, I think you can narrow it down to the IACV leaking internally, which would explain why it did not significantly lower the idle. My assumption for this? Covering the throttlebody stalled it out.


One last thing to try, pinch the PCV and purge valve vacuum lines shut. THEN unplug the IACV, and see what happens.

Its a fiddly thing! But some diagnostics are boring and simple trial and error unfortunately
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
If they are the smae size hose, you could probably just take the pcv hose off the valve, and route it to the purge valve barb. Then you could unplug the IACV once it is fired up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I forgot i have a vice grip that i can use.
So i just did what you ask me to do. First i pinch the purge valve and it didn't make any difference,i pinch the pcv hose again and it drop the rpm, now i test all three together like u said and the engine drop lower than it was idling but not to stall it though. I unplugged the iacv and thev rpm raised higher.

Adding this information to our discussion. This green cap
came off when i was working on the engine and i couldn't find it no matter how i look for it so i did drive the car without the cap for 2 days i think. Will that cause any issues of what i having now?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,413 Posts
that cap covers the test port for purge vacuum testing. Id try and find it, or see if you can find one locally. For now, you can wrap it in electrical tape to cover it. Maybe 6-7 hose wraps to keep it somewhat durable.

IACV unplug should never raise the idle. That almost says whatever your leak is, is floppy.

Kinda like the PCV's lid that uses sealant............

more vacuum, it sucked more rtv gasket in, creating a larger hole.


Sorry dude, I think you are stuck removing the PCV and its lid, cleaning the surfaces, and resealing.


As far as driving, if it drives okay, you are fine. I dont think you are actually damaging anything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: slo_eg8
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top